Im new here, and im looking for a 1st gen.....questions w/in - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 7th, 01, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Fresno, California
Posts: 15

Hey, im new here. I have a 92 Camaro RS V8 (pic)
Im going to be 17 next month, so my dad finally is letting me get my dream car. A 1st gen Camaro.
I'd like to know what you guys think a RUNNING(not neccessarily fast, yet) 1st gen Camaro with a 327 or 350 would cost? I'm looking for one that will NEED a paint job, and, and need new suspension/tires/wheels. How much do you think i could get one for?
My dream would be to have a 69 RS/SS, but I would be totally satisfied with ANY 68 or 69 Camaro.

Also, I havent had time to ask around, so i'll just ask it here...How much could i get a NICE single-color paint job for?? Assuming that the car doesn't need much body work or preparation??

1992 Camaro RS 305
*in search of a 68/69 RS*
Aaron D is offline  
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 7th, 01, 09:06 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 251

Well if your going for a car that needs a paint job it's probly gonna need new quarters too, most do. I have a '67 and someone bondo'ed the quarters and gave it a chit paint job. It looks nice and turns heads til you really examine it and see it has a cheapo $600 paint job.

IMHO if you want a really nice ride that'll last do it right take it down to almost nothin. Powercoat the subframe, fender wells, etc. Take the lights, chrome trim, emblems, etc off then give it a good hi quality paint job. Then get an assembly manual (cause unless you've done one before you'll miss something) and put it back together. Rebuild everything you can and replace what's too worn out.

Now if your just lookin for a daily driver/hot rod by all means drive around a gray primered POS lookin ride with a 383, 700r4 or rock crusher tranny with a ported TPI and 12 bolt. Modify the crap outta the suspension cause the stock sucks unless you got an original high performance car. Replace all the bushings, etc with polyurethane unless they've already been done. But make sure to get stiff front coils like 500-600lb ones and make em ride about an inch-1 1/2 lower cause once you put headers on it you don't wanna scrape em, and you don't want your tires rubbing the wheel well either.

About price look around first, you could spend as much as $6000 for a true RS/SS in fair shape. But look into how to tell from the numbers if it's an original RS/SS. There's alot of fakes out there. But if you want a modified car (read hot rod) I'd probly buy a cheap base car and go from there since they really ain't worth a whole lot and you could get em cheap. I've seen a '68 modified small block smoke everything it ever came across without thinkin twice (never took it to the drags though). In 68 and 69 I think they did away with the mono-leafs which are for a stock car, but it depends on what you like. '67 is the only year with the front vent window. 67 and 68 have the same body style and 69's got a different one (personally I don't like 69's body style) but I don't think you can get AC in a '67.

But my advise would be to go get Chevrolet by the Numbers for 67-69. Read up on the options and research before you even go looking for a car and take the book along. Take your time and get one that isn't a rust bucket. Ask anyone, rust is the worst thing to fix. Take a magnet and put it on the quarter panels if the magnet sticks there isn't bondo if it falls off someone bondo'ed it and you can talk em down if you even want the car. Also have em open the truck and take out the mat and look for rust. While your in the trunk look at the inside Q panel for a bondo repair job. The front fenders usually show rust in the lower corners toward the driver/passenger seats. Also if there's blue smoke coming out the exhaust then plan on rebuilding the motor. And last but not least plan on constantly putting money into it and kiss your gas mileage goodbye unless you get fuel injection. I get about 8-10 mpg without efi.

[This message has been edited by 67stock (edited 02-08-2001).]
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 7th, 01, 09:30 PM
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Location: ORYGUN, USA
Posts: 795

Your Dad sounds like a cool guy . Fresno is bay area kinda right? . I imagine if you do some N. Cali backroads hunting and trade paper shopping you could probably find something under $4k. Don't be in a rush and do your homework. The Chev by the Numbers(65-69) by Alan Colvin is a good place to start. Also the Camaro White book and the Chevrolet SS red book a cool too(they fit in your pocket.) Up here in Oregon I see a good deal here and there. I bought my 69 SSRS in N Cali for under $10K last year with a fresh roller 427, M-21, 12 bolt 3.73 posi. It needs paint(and at least one qtr panel ) But is a kick in the pants to drive. I will probably drive it for at least 2 more years before its gets the paint job. I expect to spend 6-10k since I want it to go back to Tuxedo black(original color) BTW nice 92 you got there are you looking to trade it off or are you gonna keep it(reccommended) too? Good Luck

69 SSRS 396(roller 427 )
My Chevs

[This message has been edited by ace841 (edited 02-08-2001).]
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 01, 03:19 AM
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,273

Have you checked out the for sale pages of this site? I'm not recommending anything, but you might be able to get a line on costs. From your post, it sounds like you plan to build a hot rod out of it a little later on. If that's the case, you won't have to worry about originality, just quality.
As for the single color paint, if you want a good quality paint job, figure on $5,000.00 and up.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 01, 10:53 AM
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: MT, USA
Posts: 14

I would deffinately agree on buying the books to make sure ur not getting swidled. And pricewise the best thing to do is just look around, and more importantly ASK around, there are plenty of cars out there that are not advertised for sale but would probly be sold if someone offered to buy them. Mine was an isolated case but my uncle had my car for like 20 years and only drove it for the first 5, then it sat and sat having parts picked off it here and there and sold when he needed money. Well it was my dream car, so one day i just asked him(knowing it was a longshot), u ever gonna do anything with that car, or u wanna sell it to me, a relative that will apreciate and drive it? Well he gave it to me for $800, '69 RS/Z28, needed engine, tranny, and steering column. Still needs misc. interior parts, but its mechanically sound, and fun to drive for about 2500 i have in it. So yea just be patient and if ya happen to see one sitting somewhere, go ask the owner, the worse they can do is say sorry not for sale.
just my opion. Jon

'69 RS/Z28
'89 Bonneville SSE
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 01, 11:27 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Orchard Park, NY USA
Posts: 719

Something to something thats already done, unless you really want to do your own work. otherwise it just doesn't make sense money-wise. Tell dad you need to drop $8 to $12 in the car now. It will be;

1) The car you want

2) A better investment (dad will like this)

3) Way cheaper in the long run (To match,
say a '69 RS/SS that might cost you $12k
now as compared to a $4k bondo bucket,
which will probably take another $12k
and 5 years to match levels)

4) You'll be out cruisin now and pickin' up
chicks (dad won't like this one)

Just some food for thought...

John Doyle is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 01, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Fresno, California
Posts: 15

Thanks for the replies. Well, I guess i didnt say that money IS an issue. I can have about 3,000 by this summer, and I will be able to get about 5,000 for my 92. I am not trying to make an RS/SS replica, I was just saying that is my dream car. I'd just like to have a nice looking RS or somethin. If i could find one that is already painted, that would be good. But if i dont, how good of a paint job do you think i could get for about $2,000?

1992 Camaro RS 305
*in search of a 68/69 RS*
Aaron D is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 01, 02:33 PM
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: canada
Posts: 4

Aaron, john's got it right. Unless you have a place to work on it, tools, time and lots of cash, I'd take my time and look around for the right car. Its best if you buy at the end of the season. Don't worry about number matching, too much coin for Dad to afford, besides the more he puts in, the more he will drive it. Look around close to town so you can see what you get, don't buy blind off ebay or other sites. Go see it and bring a mechanically inclined guy to assist you if needed. If you put too much emotion in the purchase and not enough common sense, you'll pay in the end. Just my $.03 cents worth...need $.03 Cdn to buy $.02 US worth
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