Which rust treatment to use? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 10th, 99, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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I am getting ready to drop my fuel tank and pull the rearend out of my 1969 Camaro. While I have the tank and rearend out, I figured I would give my trunk floor a little freshining up.

The floor is solid and was resprayed sometime in the past. Problem is that the surface rust that was painted over is now coming through the splatter paint. Also, there is 1 small (pencil eraser sized) hole. I am going to strip the paint off and then treat the trunk floor with Corroless or POR-15 before I respray it with the correct splatter paint..

Any suggestions on which to use? As I said, the floor is solid, but I dont want the existing rust to get any worse...and I want to do this right!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 99, 05:37 AM
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I have used POR15 for this application several times successfully. For any weak sections I duct taped the back side of the repair and soaked some fibreglas cloth with the POR15 and then recoated several times with just the POR15. I then removed the duct tape. I have never used Corroless.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 99, 09:49 AM
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I use Corroless on some pitting areas on my subframe, front window frame, cowl & firewall. It sprays real nice and looks like regular brown-red primer. Can't say for sure what the long term protection will do. Given that, when get around to my trunk, I am going to use the POR 15 product where I can. I used their epoxy putty and it worked great for filling in some small holes in my dash and cowl area.
There are some pictures on my site of the finished Corroless paint and putty patch.

http://67camaro.virtualave.net/
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 21st, 99, 05:33 AM
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I have not used either product - but I've had good luck with a catalyzed red-brown rust proofing primer. I sandblasted the areas (in my case the entire car) washed them with a metal prep from the autobody paint shop, and sprayed on the primer. I used Spiez-Hecker but all the big paint manufacturers have a similar product.

The overall most important point is to get rid of the old rust. Sandblasting works well but is messy, grinding and wire wheels will get most of it. The metal prep (acid) will usually get the rest and etch the metal so the primer sticks good. Just cover the primer with primer-surfacer or a sealer and paint.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 21st, 99, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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I have done that in the past on my wifes car...but the rust always bubbles back after a year or so....I want something more permanent.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 22nd, 99, 12:46 AM
 
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I haven't seen any product on the market that will stop rust once it is started! If you want to be 100% rid of rust, you have to cut it out.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 22nd, 99, 08:13 AM
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Use the POR-15. I've never heard anything bad said about its performance.
A few things about it. Don't get it on anything you don't want it on.
It likes a rough surface. Either rusty rough or sandblast rough. But it won't stick to a smooth surface.
The putty works good, but shape it before it hardens. It hardens like a rock and is very hard to shape afterwards.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 24th, 99, 04:42 PM
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the most interesting method I've seen is one employed by a resto shop that specializes in Jags and other British cars. This guy completely strips the car to bare metal and then has it powdercoated in the final color. Then he does the bodywork, sanding through the powdercoat as needed for major repairs and roughing it everywhere else for a coat of rust resistant primer. This wroks really well for the underside of the car and all the hard to paint places. It's just not practical for anything less than a full dissassembly.

However, back to the subject at hand. The original finish on Camaros was nothing special and it still lasted a fair number of years without rusting. Repairs done properly with modern materials should last much longer. If rust is showing up in a year - then something is wrong. Either the rust was not all dug out and neutralized or there are pinholes in the metal allowing water in or ?? I have found that once you get all the rust out and stop water from collecting again - any reasonable refinishing process will generally keep it out. Of course, if you drive in winter weather where they salt the roads - all bets are off!
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