10bolt spring perch welds - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 01, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Marty
 
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Question

Backed my daily driver 69 out of the garage today to change the oil and noticed a bit of dark grease on the floor of the garage. It was located under the right rear shock. Took a look under the car and the outside weld between the spring perch and axle tube is completely broke free. The inside weld is wet with grease.

What to do? I'm assuming that I have a crack in the axle tube at the inside weld for there to be grease there. Is this something that can be repaired without pulling the axles - weld it in place? Any idea of the cost of this repair? I'm wondering if it may be time to look for a 12bolt replacement.

Marty

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 01, 10:28 AM
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David Pozzi
 
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Drain the oil and grind the weld down with a grinder, make sure the pad is even with the other side and re weld it.
Then add a piece of plate front and rear from the pad to the housing for reinforcement.
Use two U bolts on each spring plate.

Unless you have a big hole I don't think you will get any metal into the rear housing.
I did this to my 67 12 bolt and it worked fine but the rear pad was not exactly level after welding and I had to shim the pad to correct it.

If you are worried about that happening, you can pull the axle on that side and jack that side up a a bit and wash it out with solvent.

The really correct way would be to remove the rear end and weld it on a bench, wash it out and reassemble.
David

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 01, 08:21 PM
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Freddie
 
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That's good advice. The only thing I would add to it would be to wash the area to be welded with brake cleaner before welding and be sure to change the oil after you are finished.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 01, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
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Marty
 
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Question

David,

I didn't note in the intitial post, but the spring perch is now twisted so that where it broke loose there is a significant gap. I've got slapper bars on the car and I'm sure that numerous hard launches have created this problem. On the inside weld, it appears that it is starting to break loose at the front of the weld - looks like this is where the leak is.

I'm not a welder, so I'll need to take it tin to someone. Is this something that any welding shop can handle, or should I take it into a rearend shop? When they weld it, is there anything that they can damage? My first thought is that the heat will set any grease inside the tube on fire. I've never tore into a rear end so I'm considering pulling it and taking it to a rear end shop. However, if we start spending a bunch of money getting this fixed, I'd rather find a 12bolt for it. I don't want to be repeating this again - thoughts of the axle breaking loose of the car run through my head.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 01, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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Marty
 
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Exclamation

Ok, I finally got around to taking a couple of pictures and noticed that the left spring perch appears to have a leak also. The below link includes a bunch of pictures of the problem, warning, they are not small.

This is getting ugly. So anybody got a 12 bolt for a 69 for sale?
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...291&a=11511660

Marty

[This message has been edited by 69CamaroSS (edited 02-11-2001).]
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 01, 09:39 AM
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This would probably be best done with the rear end out of the car. Set it up on some jack stands and place a level on the good mount. Set the rear end up so that this mount is level and then bend the other one around so that it is also level. Cut a template out of cardboard to check the angle of the good mount and use it to compair the angle of the damaged one. Bend it to match the good one. When you get it lined up right take it to a welding shop and have it tacked in place. Then check it again to be sure it didn't move and have it welded. Cut some 1/8 inch thick steel into 4 pieces the width of the springs and long enough to reach from the ends of the mounts to the axle tubes. This will be about 2 1/2 inches by 3 inches. Have them welded on while you are at the welding shop. Use the U bolts like David said and you shouldn't have any more problems with the mounts breaking.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 01, 01:19 PM
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David Pozzi
 
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I agree.
You are in danger of having the spring pad separate from the housing and then the rear will drop to the pavement.
It happened to me in 1970.
I put traction bars on, with no U bolts or reinforcement.
Funny how the same mistakes get repeated after all these years!
You need four U bolts.

Check the housing for warping after welding.
They might have to heat a spot on top and quench it to pull the tubes back to straight.
I've done this to gain negative camber before.
You can have 1 degree neg camber (top of tire in) max. Welding on the bottom will move it to positive camber if not corrected.

You can certainly fix this one, but now would be the time to upgrade to a 12 bolt if you think you need the extra strength. That way if you spend money changing bearings or buying stronger axles etc, you will be spending it on a better base unit and have a stronger more valuable rear.
Once you open up that 10 bolt you will be faced with probably replacing some bearings and seals, maybe the axles if pitted.
David

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67 RS 327
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65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer

[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 02-11-2001).]
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 01, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Marty
 
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David and Big Gear Head, Thanks for the help.

Couple of quick questions. Do I need to drain the rear and pull the axles prior to welding up the tubes? I've never tore into a rear end and am a bit anxious about doing so, althought while it's out I'd like to check it out.

I suspect you may be right David - that I'll end up replacing axles, bearings, who knows what else once I get it opened up. This leads me to consider a replacement bolt in unit.

What is a rebuilt 12bolt or 9" likely to cost - any particular shops that either of you would recommend for a crate rear end? Won't either of these require that I get the drive shaft shortened also? I know this is the more expensive option, but I want to weight my options.

Thanks again...Marty

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 01, 04:56 PM
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You should tear it down so you can clean out the axle tube after the welding is done. While it is apart you can sight down the inside of the axle tubes and get an idea of how straight the housing is. You should at least replace the axle bearing and seal on the damaged side. If you are carefull to mark the shims and bearing races as to which side they came out of, you shouldn't have any problems. Just torqut the bearing cap bolts to 65 ft. lbs. If your drive shaft is 50 inches between the centers of the U joint caps you should be alright with the 12 bolt.

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