Best convertable dual exhaust? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old May 27th, 01, 04:43 PM
stenn5
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Ok convertable owners I know you have had this problem before, as you know the X pan on a convertable causes problems with most exhaust systems. Which system orks the best. I tried a Flowmaster American Thunder but it required so much modifying that I wont do that again, I had to pitch the crossover pipe completely. Has anyone used the Flowmaster Force 2 on a convertable? What I want is performance, good rumble but not real loud at idle and slow cruise.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old May 28th, 01, 04:34 PM
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I think Borla has a full 2-1/4 setup specifically for the 67-69 convertibles. They fabbed it up for Car Craft when they did the LT1 into a 67 rs convertible project. I can dig through my old mags to find the part # if you want.

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Jeff H - 93 Indy 500 Pace Car(supercharged), Hugger Orange 69 Z28 with JL8 brakes, cross-ram & GM fiberglass hood, being restored
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old May 28th, 01, 05:07 PM
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I'm having Dynomax "Ultra Flows" installed tomorrow. The entire package will consist of; 1 5/8's Doug's 3/4 length 3" collectors into 2 1/2" to the mufflers and 2 1/4" out the back. I will let you know how it sounds tomorrow...

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old May 29th, 01, 04:49 AM
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Thanks! Yes I'am interested in any and all options for a exhaust system for my convert.
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old May 29th, 01, 05:34 AM
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I suggest choosing your mufflers and having a muffler shop bend up a set. My 69 has 2 1/2" ( came on the car but made at a muffler shop ) and it fits great.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old May 29th, 01, 04:08 PM
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by stenn5:
Ok convertable owners I know you have had this problem before, as you know the X pan on a convertable causes problems with most exhaust systems. Which system orks the best. I tried a Flowmaster American Thunder but it required so much modifying that I wont do that again, I had to pitch the crossover pipe completely. Has anyone used the Flowmaster Force 2 on a convertable? What I want is performance, good rumble but not real loud at idle and slow cruise. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I recently put a dynoed 498HP/500lbft 409 small block in my convertible. Had to put a 3" exhaust on and had to take X-brace of and have a metal fabricator make a new brace that dropped down about 2-3" and this clears all the pipes, including my h-pipe. I still have the structural stability with the new brace.


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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old May 29th, 01, 04:42 PM
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Here is my report!!!

Muffler guy talked me into Walker "Magna Flows" Showed me how they were the same muffler and Dynomax gets their mufflers from Walker. ( Just for grins I did a search on "Walker Mufflers" and got both Walker and Dynomax info...) Anyway he charged me about $5.00 less per muffler than the Dynomax "Ultra Flows" listed in the Summit book!!

Now unless you really romp on it they are quiet! If you like to make a grand entrance you won't like them!! If you have a ragtop and would like to try to enjoy a conversation or the radio then it's a thumbs up...

The x-brace had to be shimmed a bit to fit the 2 1/2" tubes.

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...Dennis
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old May 30th, 01, 04:20 AM
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Well, my exhaust is finally done! It wasn't easy, but it turned out great. The shop I went to does quality stainless steel work and custom installations. They mostly work on C5 Corvettes. They actually hand built my muffler. It is all stainless and is a similar design to the stock, single muffler. It mounts in the stock location and is tucked up behind the gas tank, out of sight. The rest of the system consists of 2-1/2" aluminized pipe with an h-pipe crossover.

The system was custom fabricated, not an off the shelf system. The pipes run on top of the x-brace, with angles mounted to the top of the brace. It turned out great and i'm sure would not have been something the Midas shop could have done too well.

Now the headers. What a pain. After all the reading of posts concerning headers (which to buy, which will fit w/PS and AC, etc) I was all set to buy the ceramic coated Hookers. But- I took a chance on some Dynomax headers. They were thicker gage and were supposed to fit my car no problem. The price was right and I figured I would get them coated after the shop fit them in.
Well guess what- surprise, surprise, they didn't fit. Lucky for me, I didn't have them coated first.

I immediately returned them and ordered the Hookers. The Hookers competition series were here the next day, and fit great. There is about an 1/8"-1/4" between the header and the PS box, but it clears! The AC box has plenty of room. I used the required AC bracket for the rear of the compressor. I'm not sure what some of the others posters were doing to get so tight on the AC box, unless Hooker has changed their tooling or something. I also installed copper gaskets and stainless steel head bolts. It turned out great.

All in all the system sounds and looks great. Its not too loud, just loud enough. 2-1/2" was the perfect size for my car. The Hooker competition series worked for me. The clearance is great, but at first the drivers side header hung a bit low. I replaced my springs, added Koni shocks and went to 15" wheels and that did the trick. I think it was the shocks actually that made the difference, since my car wont dive anymore. Hope this helps those looking for headers…..

You can view my exhaust at my website, go to page 5:

http://www.geocities.com/TelevisionC...Camaro3-1.html




[This message has been edited by mr69 (edited 05-30-2001).]
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old May 30th, 01, 01:44 PM
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The issue with the a/c box hitting the headers is with the 67 and early 68 cars, The a/c box for the 67 and early 68 is a little longer than later cars.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old May 30th, 01, 03:43 PM
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Ive got a question for you convertible owners. If the brace causes so much grief, why cant you just remove it and intall bolt in subframe connectors? This way you still have chassis strengthening and im assuming the clearance issues would be nonexistent. Please correct me if im wrong.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old May 30th, 01, 05:52 PM
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jvolk, that's exactly what I did on my 67 ragtop. I got the Borla stainless system from Summit. It's 2 1/4 mandrel bent tubing. I had to add the H-pipe though. I'm using CE bolt in connectors. (the floor pan seam needed cutting for the width of connector..no big deal) I'm thinking of welding them to the floorpan because it has some flex. I'm using the Martz Chassis subframe, and it's much stiffer than stock and therefore more body flex. At the time Borla did not make a convertible specific system (that I knew about anyway) Have pics&gt;&gt;

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old May 30th, 01, 06:04 PM
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The subframe connectors would be advantagious but the x-brace also ties the car together side to side. I have driven a ragtop that had the x-brace removed to allow 3" pipes and the thing was like a noodle with wheels on it. It didn't have subframe connectors so I can't comment on how much it would have helped...

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...Dennis
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old May 31st, 01, 02:27 AM
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I have welded connectors, solid body mounts and no X-brace. It's fine.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old May 31st, 01, 06:16 AM
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How's the ride, say a long country back road scattered with potholes? I have ridden in several cars with solid body mounts and all I can say is, "glad I still have all my teeth!" Performance wise it was great!

This is a good thread as it brings out many aspects of these ragtops we love so much. The level of performance vrs cruise-a-bility will vary and it's really a personal thing.

Going back to the orig question we can all see that the structure of the convertible requires the owner to evaluate what the final goal is before starting the project. Be it exhaust mods or not.

A little more from me, if you plans call for big pipes, subframe connectors, solid body mounts etc. You should seriously consider a roll cage of some kind...



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...Dennis
'69 RS Convertible w/SS trim
'96 Z28SS #1679 of 2410
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old May 31st, 01, 06:38 AM
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The ride is ok. Potholes remind me that I need to replace the door wondow fuzzies, etc because the glass rattles but the ride is good. I also highly recommend the Global West control arm bushings. They really allow the suspension to work due to lack of bushing stiction. I plan on doing the rear leaves, too.
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