Big block hot start - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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Does anyone have some suggestions on how to take care of starting your car after it has been run for a bit, then stopped and the starter gets heat soaked? I have a 454 in a 69 camaro with headers. I have used the heat shield, run a remote starter solenoid(as suggested in the reference section), installed a new gear reduction starter, new battery and cables and still can not drive anywhere, run into the store for 10 minutes, then come back and start the car. It will jump start, so at this point, I am looking to install a second battery. Any other ideas?

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Dean
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 06:19 AM
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Since you've addressed all the heat soak issues, maybe you need to look at your ignition timing? Just a thought......KZ

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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Good point KZ. I am running the mallory unilite dist that does not have a vacuum advance on it. What would you suggest for static timing?

thanks
Dean
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 06:57 AM
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If you can jump start it heat soak of the starter is not the problem. It sounds like you have either battery or cable problems check your grounds they are the most common cause of problems like you have. If it is kicking back when you try to start it then check the timing.

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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Oger, the battery and cables are new. I have the battery grounded at two locations, block and frame, for good measure. I have checked to make sure the grounds have good connection to metal. In the morning or after it has set for several hours, it will crank right up. This is why it perplexes me. The battery I put in was rated at 780 cold crank amps. I also had the alternator checked to make sure it is charging correctly. So, I am still puzzled. Any other ideas???

Dean
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 07:17 AM
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Dean,

I have taken a simple toggle switch and installed it inbetween the + (HOT) wire to the coil so that when I start my car I get the engine turning over and then hit the switch to turn the ignition on. I do this because I run alot of initial advance timing.

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 09:29 AM
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Does it kick back or just turn slowly or not at all.

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 09:50 AM
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I'd say Oger is on the right track, place voltmeter across battery terminals, observe cranking voltage while cranking for max 15 seconds.

If less than than 10 volts, get a bigger battery. If not less than 10 volts, replace cables with welding cable, 2/0 AWG. Also, right after cranking, feel with hand all connections for heat. When you feel heat, that is the bad connection, either dirty, or too small in size( not enough contact area).

Another idea, engine cold, take beam torque wrench and measure how much to turn other and compare to heated condition, could tell alot right there. Set initial timing for 6-8 deg BTDC.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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It just turns real slow......
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 10:20 AM
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A couple of quick thoughts I learned from a car I had do this. First, the starter in the car was a rebuilt "cheap" unit from Checker. When replaced with the best that NAPA has to offer, problem gone. Second, look at the post on the starter that the cable from the battery attaches to. Most have a nut that screws down right next to the starter, then the battery cable goes on and then a second nut goes on top to secure the cable. Sometimes, the first nut next to the starter itself will work loose causing a poor battery connection and giving you fits. This problem is such a pisser, I hope you get it figured out. For whatever reason, the starter is not spinning fast enough to get the motor started.
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 10:39 AM
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As far as starters go, I'm having real good luck with an AC Delco heavy duty starter. It's got a lifetime warrenty, I've already replaced it 3 times no quesions asked. I feel kind of bad about replacing it that much becuase it was never the starters problem. First time I was trying to start the car without the driveshaft in it and it was grinding on the flyweel, so I exchange it, nothing changed, finally figured out what is was. The second time I had my distrubutor a tooth off, engine was kicking back, exchange starter, same problem, finally figured it out. As you can tell when I have a starting problem I imedialtly change the starter, good thing I got one with the lifetime warrenty, .

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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I just put a new starter on mine as well. It is a gear reduction starter that I ordered from JC Whitney. It is made by "Mean Green"? I think that is what it was called. However, I don't even have a dozen starts on this yet. I had the same problem with the AC Delco starter that was on it. This weekend I will try what was suggested regarding checking the voltage. I will recheck all my connections as well. You never know. I know I could possibly throw bigger gauge cable at this, but is this just covering up a problem? I currently have all new #4 cable on the car. This is baffling.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 02:43 PM
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Is the battery in the trunk if it is you will need large cables like the previous posts said welding lead works well. I have always run a ground lead too have never had much luck using the body as a ground strap

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Oger, not yet, but that was going to be part of my solution.

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 01, 07:19 PM
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I think it's probly a too small battery. When you go to get one always ask for the biggest one they got.
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