proper ground strap location - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 01, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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I'm trying to eliminate a starting problem on my 68 big block. I thought I'd start with proper grounding and the location(s). Usually the problem in the past has been engine heat , and I think I've got that one narrowed down(heat shld. around the starter), but the other afternoon I went out to start it cold , and nothing! Never had that problem since owning the car (8 yrs.) So any info on grounding and the proper location would be helpful, or any other info on the subject, thanks D
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 01, 01:27 AM
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Start at the engine, there are one per side at the firewall to one valve cover bolt, one per side at the center subframe mounting, right next to the starter under the heater bos, strap goes from the firewall to the subframe, and the wire from the neg battery cable to the fender.

I put one from the engine block to the top idler bolt.

You also might check/clean the battery clamps and posts on both ends of the cable(s).

You say "nothing happens", Need to be more specific;
1. Turn key and nothing? - Good connections will help, Lights come on? Do they dim when attempt to start? - Check junction block next to battery for cleanliness and the horn relay has a buss bar, make sure it's clean. and the associated wires. Finally, is ign switch good? Take screwdriver and short across bat cable and solenoid terminal to see if starter works.
2. Turn key and a clunk but no starter turn over? - Good connections will help. Probably the solenoid needs replacement, or torn apart and the copper screws rotated 180 deg and all reassembled. Could also be starter needs new brushes and armature needs turning.
3. Turn key and a clunk and a low squeal from the starter - Starter trying to turn, but not enough juice(current). - Good connections will help. Battery in low state of charge and/or cables too small of gauge(wire size).

these are just some of the many possibilities it could be, I'm sure others here can suggest more, be methodical and think about what you're doing, you'll find it.

Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 01, 04:10 AM
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Those little straps from the firewall to the valve covers are just for radio noise. If you didn't have a radio from the factory they would not be on the car at all. Run the neg. cable to the passenger side cyl. head.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 01, 03:26 PM
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tell you what worked great for me...pos cable to starter naturally....but took the negative and put it under one of the bolts that actually hold the starter to the block...have not had a problem since.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 01, 06:54 PM
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one thing I like to do is run a ford solnoid
sorry bowtie bloods on the fire wall running the pos to it then to starter and putting the small starter wire on it in the correct place then a shorting bar between the pos. on starter and the s terminal this does numerous things makes it so that the small wire does not get brittle and break makes starter change out easier and keeps the operating solinoid cooler seems like gm use to sale a kit that did this for motorhomes but why buy a kit ( hate fancy packaging and kits ruins all the pride factor) when you can do it for what $10.00 max
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 01, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by denis68:
I'm trying to eliminate a starting problem on my 68 big block. I thought I'd start with proper grounding and the location(s). Usually the problem in the past has been engine heat , and I think I've got that one narrowed down(heat shld. around the starter), but the other afternoon I went out to start it cold , and nothing! Never had that problem since owning the car (8 yrs.) So any info on grounding and the proper location would be helpful, or any other info on the subject, thanks D<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thank you for all the replies. As soon as the weekend gets here I'll dig into it. Thanks again to all. D
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