1969 Pace Car lettering - more questions. - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 19th, 02, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 23
Thanks to everyone who gave their two cents worth on my post a couple days ago about whether or not I should put my original pace car lettering on my car. I have decided to go with repro lettering and save the originals in case I ever do a full rotisserie restoration. I have a couple other questions.

1.) Just for my knowledge, how does pace car lettering get applied? Are they stickers that go on dry or does water have to be used?

2.) After letters are applied, can they be waxed over or is it recommended to wax around them? Any special care needed?

3.) I need to have the pinstriping on the doors removed. I am planning to have a professional body shop do this but want to know they are doing it right before I let them do it. How should they be buffed off? Should a specific kind of buffing compound be used? The last thing I want is for an amateur to burn through the paint, especially since the pinstripes are so close to the center crease that runs the length of the doors.

Any advice would be appreciated.

By the way, you can see pics of my car at:
http://www.geocities.com/firstgenera...roPaceCar.html
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 19th, 02, 04:13 PM
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Mark
 
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Location: Shrewsbury, MA, USA
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The repros go on dry. They come with no instructions and you get one chance to get them on straight and the "Chevrolet Camaro" line is not parallel with the other 3 lines of text so don't use it to align the decals to the door. (Ask me how I know) Use the bottom line. There is no dimensions for putting them on, I've seen sets on different cars that vary by two or more inches up and down the door.

They come on a piece of 3M backing with a layer of oilskin type paper over the adhesive side. Trim the backing down so it is just slightly bigger than the decals, it makes them easier to position. Put them on with the backing still in place move them around till you find a position you like tape the whole thing on, and step back 20 feet an look at make sure they are where you want them. Once your satisfied everything is straight and centered add some more tape to the top edge so it can't move, flip the whole decal up and peel the backing off at the top edge, and start peeling it down. After you get enough off to flip the whole thing back over onto the door do it and keep peeling the backing down until its off. then starting at the top and working down press the decals tightly onto the door with a roller or squegee to get the air bubbles out.

This is a fairly tough job as you applying a decal roughly the size of the whole door and trying to get it on straight, and without bubbles. To make matters worse there are all kinds of edges in the lettering that can get stck when you are removing the backing making it easy to tear a letter in half. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, pay someone. The decals are almost $300 and you can't buy a single side so if you screw one up your out $600, plus you run the risk of screwing up the paint on the door getting a messed up one off.

you can wax over the lettering, just be careful not to catch the edge of a letter with a rag or buffing pad. It's real easy to lift the edge of some of the smaller letters, especially the comma In "May 31, 1969"

As far as buffing the pin stripe off I guess it would depend on what kind of paint is used on the car, mine was acrylic laquer and they were applied over the clear coat and they came right off with regular rubbing compound on a buffing wheel.

------------------
Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11
My 69 L48 - 350/300HP Engine
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 19th, 02, 04:59 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: albuquerque,nm,usa
Posts: 351
Very cool car. Leave it the way it is!!!!!!!!
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 19th, 02, 05:56 PM
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Dan
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
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I make and apply vinyl decals professionally. They really are easy to put on and get straight. If you'd like some tips, e-mail me and I'd be glad to help.

------------------
Dan Camm
1969 Daytona Yellow RS/SS

[This message has been edited by DanCamm (edited 07-19-2002).]
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 19th, 02, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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So do the originals go on wet rather than dry like the repros?
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 22nd, 02, 04:53 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Columbus, GA
Posts: 867
The repro decals that I put on my car had instructions and a squeegee. Can't remember where I got them at this moment. They went on wet (soapy water) and were fairly easy to do. But, as Mark said, make sure that you align them with the bottom of the door, not the crease in the door. Mine are a little 'tilted' because of this. Since mine went on wet, they were easy to align.

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Dave
'69 Z11 Pace Car, 350/4 speed, manual top, console w/gauges, tilt rosewood wheel, AM radio
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