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New ZL1 engine assembly

5K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Hgger69 
#1 ·
I am starting the assembly of my new from scratch ZL1 using the 12370850 bare block from Chevrolet Performance. I am having a hard time finding out where I need to install the oil bypass valve(s) by the filter boss. I have a couple of diagrams that I got from Chevrolet Performance showing where they go if using an oil cooler but I will not be using one. Does anyone have any experience building one of these and know which hole(s) the 25013759 valve(s) get installed in when no oil cooler is used? The holes by the filter boss are different on this block than other BBC blocks.
 
#2 ·
I've just done the exact same thing with building a ZL-1 from scratch, watch my thread! :wink2:
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the reply, Hakan. I did see your thread last night. That was a long road indeed and you are very close to the end. Great job!

I have had engines apart and did the reassembly but this is the first time I am doing one from scratch with all new parts. That is why I am discovering, as I go along, that there are parts I didn't even know existed that I need to get, and in the case of the oil bypass valve, figure out where it (or they) need to be installed.

I saw your photo on page 7 of the threaded adapter to spin the filter on (I should be receiving mine today) but the photo did not show any bypass valves installed. They need to go in different places depending on whether or not you are using an oil cooler. I am not using one so I need to know which location(s) the valves need to go in. Where did you install yours?

I wish I could have seen all of the early photos of your build but I didn't watch in time before Photo*uck-it stopped working out for you. I'm looking forward to seeing the results of the full dyno pull.
 
#7 ·
#4 ·
Tried to get a picture of mine, but it is the hole right next to the big thread for the spin on oil filter adapter that you also need. I wanted to plug mine, so I pinched the end of the Spring cage so it will not open.

I assume you have the Swartz machine block? Here is what I have experienced with this block. I wiped out 2 solid lifter cams that were broken in correctly with outer springs only, I took it out in the fall, it turned out that the #2 cylinder lifter bore ( the very front bore) was drilled off by 10 degrees, all of the remaining 15 were perfect. The bore alignment was driving the Cam to the rear and eating the distributor gear and the lobes.

The second thing with these blocks is that you need to build them and run it for a year or two and then rebuild it. I was told this from one of my racing buddy, I was like, $5,000 for a block and it needs to be seasoned!, well, he was right. I wanted the block touch honed for the new rebuild, no go. The block moved around and the cylinders were egg shaped, it took 5 thousands to clean it up, now I am in the process of having the pistons coated.

If using a solid Cam and original heads, the lash will grow .013 from cold to hot, so make sure the oil is warm before you hammer it. It heats up and cools down real fast, 074 heads are a nightmare, good luck finding a good set, a lot of junk out there
 
#5 ·
I'm also building a new ZL-1 engine from scratch. This topic was asked about at the time and I'm not clear on the answer. Does anyone know which position the oil bypass valve should be in? I have a photo
of the oil filter bypass area, but the site won't allow me to post it for some reason. I could email the photo to someone if you have info as to where this bypass valve should go....thanks Bill
 
#6 ·
I'm also building a new ZL-1 engine from scratch. This topic was asked about at the time and I'm not clear on the answer. Does anyone know which position the oil bypass valve should be in? I have a photo
of the oil filter bypass area, but the site won't allow me to post it for some reason. I could email the photo to someone if you have info as to where this bypass valve should go....thanks Bill

Send to me I will show you. Sean modsys2000@aol.com
 
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