Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 20, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

Hi All, I'm a new member and finally starting this project after sitting on it for a long time. The car was originally a Daytona Yellow X-11, SS/RS, 711 interior, black vinyl top 350 4spd car which I think we will return it to. It had been raced on and off since 1971 and owned by 5 or 6 guys in the Akron Ohio area and was originally campaigned as the Automatic Rat. I bought this car around 04 or 05 when my son was a baby planning to do a project with him when he got a little older and before the prices got way out of hand. Well heís now 17 and a junior in high school and finally asked- Dad when can we start on that Camaro? He wants to drive it to prom and graduation in June 2021. This is a lofty goal and we are late to the game but I have been gathering stuff for this car for a long time and the engine and trans are done. So Iím tearing into it now. This car has been a drag car its whole life so Iím hoping I do not have to get into a lot of rust repair in the rockers, floor, roof, and other areas. I do need to replace most of the rear half of the car as it is hacked up pretty good and I bought a fairly rust free but beat up shell on ebay a long time ago that I have for parts and have since removed the frame rails and rear valance and may use other pieces as well. I have never taken on a project of this magnitude so I have a lot of questions that I will need help with. So up to now Iíve built a jig and carefully removed a set of frame rails and rear valance from my donor clip. Now the work begins. Will post images as soon as i figure out the best way....

Last edited by Schmidtty; Feb 11th, 20 at 11:39 AM.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 20, 02:03 PM
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

best things in life right there
best of luck and welcome to TC !!!

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 20, 02:12 PM
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

Sounds like some bonding time to me. There are a lot of build threads to look at on this sit where people have done work like you are getting in to. Check them out, lots of good tips and learnings from others.....and don't forget to ask questions and post pics of your build with your son.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 20, 01:57 AM
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

Welcome, Mike. Sounds like a great project, and the father-son time will be priceless.

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 20, 04:29 AM
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmidtty View Post
. Will post images as soon as i figure out the best way....

Looking forward to your build thread and pictures. You either have to be a paid member or use offsite photo hosting.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 20, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

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Originally Posted by Duneit View Post
Looking forward to your build thread and pictures. You either have to be a paid member or use offsite photo hosting.
Thanks, I just paid for a year membership. Hopefully I can get going.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 20, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

Okay so here's a current picture of the car which I plan to blow apart this weekend and put on the jig which I built using plans found on this site. Thanks. I had a fairly rust free rear clip that I had bought on ebay years ago that I removed the frame rails and rear valence from. My plan was I was going to build the rear sub assembly (trunk pan, frame rails, valance panel) first and try to graft it to the original floor pan in the car once on the jig and wheel tubs and trunk pan removed. One of my first questions is can or should this be done or would it be better to fit it all in the car with the wheel housings and floor pan in place? The reason I ask is I cannot find a point of reference to start from. The rails are 42-5/8 apart (not 42-7/8 as specified) as welded by GM. Also are those supposed to be centered equally and clamped in place with this type of jig they're kind of floating right now? And I bought this one piece floor (AMD in 2014) and it fits bad. The shock mount braces are about 3/8" away from the kickups on the frame rails at the floor/trunk seam and then get closer as it goes back. There is a bow or belly in the center rear flange where it would meet the tail panel I thought it was supposed to be pretty straight (maybe that's only 67-8). The fit to the valance is poor and when you center the Gm valance on the pan side to side it does not fit the contour in the center for the fuel filler neck and the tank braces appear mounted too far forward and don't meet in the rear where they would attach. I cannot return this pan and really cannot afford to throw it away. How many guys cut these things apart and custom fit every bit of it? I have to admit I have read a lot of build threads on here and told myself "I can do that", now i'm felling pretty intimidated. Appreciate any input!
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 20, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

Here's a picture of the fit of the valence to the trunk pan when the 2 are centered side to side. There's about 1" difference between the length of the flange on the trunkpan and the length of the valence. I assume they are supposed to be equal.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 20, 04:53 PM
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmidtty View Post
Okay so here's a current picture of the car which I plan to blow apart this weekend and put on the jig which I built using plans found on this site. Thanks. I had a fairly rust free rear clip that I had bought on ebay years ago that I removed the frame rails and rear valence from. My plan was I was going to build the rear sub assembly (trunk pan, frame rails, valance panel) first and try to graft it to the original floor pan in the car once on the jig and wheel tubs and trunk pan removed. One of my first questions is can or should this be done or would it be better to fit it all in the car with the wheel housings and floor pan in place? The reason I ask is I cannot find a point of reference to start from. The rails are 42-5/8 apart (not 42-7/8 as specified) as welded by GM. Also are those supposed to be centered equally and clamped in place with this type of jig they're kind of floating right now? And I bought this one piece floor (AMD in 2014) and it fits bad. The shock mount braces are about 3/8" away from the kickups on the frame rails at the floor/trunk seam and then get closer as it goes back. There is a bow or belly in the center rear flange where it would meet the tail panel I thought it was supposed to be pretty straight (maybe that's only 67-8). The fit to the valance is poor and when you center the Gm valance on the pan side to side it does not fit the contour in the center for the fuel filler neck and the tank braces appear mounted too far forward and don't meet in the rear where they would attach. I cannot return this pan and really cannot afford to throw it away. How many guys cut these things apart and custom fit every bit of it? I have to admit I have read a lot of build threads on here and told myself "I can do that", now i'm felling pretty intimidated. Appreciate any input!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmidtty View Post
Here's a picture of the fit of the valence to the trunk pan when the 2 are centered side to side. There's about 1" difference between the length of the flange on the trunkpan and the length of the valence. I assume they are supposed to be equal.
Hi Mike, don't get intimidated. From what I see of the parts you scavenged you did a great job and have the skills do get this done. Having to trim and cut, reform, and weld on the aftermarket metal is normal and will have to be done every time. They never just fall on. It's common for the trunk floor not to have the same shape as the rails, have to be moved forward or back and then ratchet strapped down into final position. I think tpsmith's build (69 Firebird convertible) shows this problem. If I were you, I would fit the scavenged pieces to the car first since having the rails in the right place is the most important. The problem with fitting the trunk floor like you have really limits your reference points like you said. You'll have to think through the order of operations in order to get the new trunk pan in the car since it has to go in through the bottom.

Try not to get overwhelmed by the size of the project but break it up into small tasks that you can complete. That way you are always achieving goals and that keeps the motivation to keep making progress.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 20, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

Matt, Thanks for the encouragement. I think you're right I'm going to change my approach and fit the rails into the car after I get everything in it apart and get the wheel houses located.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 05:59 AM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

Here's a small update. Over the weekend we removed the front sheetmetal, subframe, and rear suspension and put the car up on the jig. Everything is old drag race technology but this car must have been a really cool car back in its day. Having a roll bar and full framerails in it made it pretty easy to pickup as its pretty stiff. However the car wont sit all the way down on the jig because of some slider shackles in the rear frame rail. One good thing is there is about 6" of the original frame rail still in the trunk which will help locate/support the rear of the car once I get the aftermarket stuff removed. We started cutting the old tubs and trunk floor out. Everything was stick welded and brazed and is built like a tank. The rockers are pretty hacked up on the end so I will have to replace the outers and inner braces at minimum wont know about the inners until I see whats inside. I was going to try to save the original rust free floor and patch a piece in the rear but I will probably have to destroy it to remove these frame rails and subframe connectors so a 1 piece floor is now on my list. The snow ball seems to grow every time I go to the garage but I expected that.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

After viewing the numerous build threads in here it appears that most guys prefer to rebuild the cars piece by piece. Has anybody used a completed one piece floor assembly like the Real Deal steel? See link below. Just weighing my options.


https://realdealsteel.com/i-20145110...th-braces.html

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 09:14 AM
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmidtty View Post
After viewing the numerous build threads in here it appears that most guys prefer to rebuild the cars piece by piece. Has anybody used a completed one piece floor assembly like the Real Deal steel? See link below. Just weighing my options.


https://realdealsteel.com/i-20145110...th-braces.html
I haven't used a full floor like that but have an auto body background. The only thing about that full floor that would concern me is that it is a reproduction and no repro is perfect. Also you are working on a 50+ year old car and working with that large of a piece will be even tougher to get it to fit correctly. I'm sure there are many other opinions on here but I see potential for headaches.

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 06:43 PM
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

My car was really bad and I considered something similar at first. My problem was I had no physical capability to handle such a large piece in my shop. The logistics of picking up the car and dropping it on top while simultaneously making it fit right weren't possible for me. I notice the whole piece is pretty expensive too. I think buying the trunk floor, floor, valence and rails is going to only be about $800-900 in comparison IIRC.

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 20, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
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Re: Mike & Michaelís 69 X11 RS

Thanks Greg and Matt, You both have valid points and I only need to buy a $300.00 floor pan I already have all the other parts.

I have jig question if somebody might know and could help me. Does anyone know what the vertical dimension would be for the floor pan where the rear subframe cage nut is supposed to be from the datum? Also a centerline dimension from either the 33 1/2 or 44 9/16 pin centerline? I'm kind of wishing I could've or would've bought and built the FGJ plans but I think they're gone. Thanks.

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69 Camaro SS/RS Project Car
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