Trying to help my buddy w/engine - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 12, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Eric
 
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Trying to help my buddy w/engine

I don't know if this post is ok for a Camaro site,but I thought I would give it a try because I know a lot of you guys on here really know your stuff, so here goes:A few years ago my friend had his '70 GTO Judge frame off restored,came out beautiful. While the body was getting done they rebuilt the Ram Air 3 engine,w/a Ram Air 4 cam and roller rockers. I think he used Rotella 15w40 as a break-in oil. He has about 2000 miles on it now and it has developed a slight ticking which to me sounded like a head to exhaust manifold leak,a bit lower in pitch than a tick,but definitely coming from the top of the engine. He has changed ex. manifold gaskets,noise still there. My question is does the Rotella oil contain enough zinc for cam break-in or not. Also do roller rockers normally need to be re-adjusted prior to break-in or not. I'm hoping he didn't wipe the cam out but he says that it still runs like it did,no loss of power. Lol it's hard to get him to work on it because everything is so new and pretty in there and I think he is afraid to ugly anything up,but I think he should be looking at possible rocker adjustment and or checking cam lobe lifts. Any suggestions are welcomed , Thanks

'69 Camaro, w/'67 L30 327 .030, L79 cam, 700DP, M20, 3.73 12 Bolt
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 12, 12:52 PM
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Re: Trying to help my buddy w/engine

Eric try to narrow down the location of the tick with a stethoscope or piece of pipe to the ear. If it is either the exhaust or rocker noise you will be able to narrow it down pretty easy this way.


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 12, 02:39 PM
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Re: Trying to help my buddy w/engine

Check the spark plugs to be sure one isn't broken and that they are all tight. I had a car that drove me crazy with a tick. Turns out it was a cracked plug .

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 12, 03:19 PM
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Re: Trying to help my buddy w/engine

He may need to readjust the valve lash.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 12, 08:37 PM
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Re: Trying to help my buddy w/engine

NO! Shell Rotella no longer has enough Zinc for engine, I add 4 oz of Lucas Breakin additive with every oil change, Wife thinks part # is 10063
We had cam go bad on her 67 Elcamino after about 15k, motor bought from friend with about 14k on it. When breaking in new engine I use whole bottle j


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 12, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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Eric
 
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Re: Trying to help my buddy w/engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAYARTER View Post
NO! Shell Rotella no longer has enough Zinc for engine, I add 4 oz of Lucas Breakin additive with every oil change, Wife thinks part # is 10063
We had cam go bad on her 67 Elcamino after about 15k, motor bought from friend with about 14k on it. When breaking in new engine I use whole bottle j

I wonder what Rotellas zinc level was back in 2009,that's when he started break-in. Also I have another question on this. Do flat tappet engines need high zinc levels during break-in only? Or do they have to have high levels throughout the life of the engine. The reason I'm asking is I have a 327 that's got about 16,000 miles on it and I'm just running Valvoline VR1,with no probs. so far. Am I ok there??

'69 Camaro, w/'67 L30 327 .030, L79 cam, 700DP, M20, 3.73 12 Bolt
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 12, 06:44 AM
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Re: Trying to help my buddy w/engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by L30 327 View Post
I wonder what Rotellas zinc level was back in 2009,that's when he started break-in. Also I have another question on this. Do flat tappet engines need high zinc levels during break-in only? Or do they have to have high levels throughout the life of the engine. The reason I'm asking is I have a 327 that's got about 16,000 miles on it and I'm just running Valvoline VR1,with no probs. so far. Am I ok there??
There's no guarantee that Rotella, or Delo, or any other zinc-bearing oil will prevent a cam from going flat, however it is much more common to lose a cam fairly soon following initial fire-up than it is to lose it after 15,000 miles.

If your friend is actually in the process of losing his cam, the situation will only get worse. The damage is already done by the time the valve lash goes loose. The cam won't just "heal." In the end, the motor will need to come out, be completely disassembled, all oil galleys in the block will need to be pressure flushed and washed clean and everything thoroughly cleaned before it is put back together. Trying to skip a few steps and avoid the work to get everything clean is a serious gamble and will likely lead to even more problems. It's possible for the contaminated oil to splash steel debris on the cylinder walls and there may even be microscopic grit embedded in the piston skirts. The longer he waits to determine the cause of the noise, the more expensive and complicated it can become.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 12, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Trying to help my buddy w/engine

Yes,that's why I'm trying to get him going on it. It might be something much less tragic. I think it's a shame to let a car like that just sit and collect dust. Hard to motivate some people.

'69 Camaro, w/'67 L30 327 .030, L79 cam, 700DP, M20, 3.73 12 Bolt
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 12, 08:26 AM
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Chuck
 
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Re: Trying to help my buddy w/engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by L30 327 View Post
Yes,that's why I'm trying to get him going on it. It might be something much less tragic. I think it's a shame to let a car like that just sit and collect dust. Hard to motivate some people.
What's the old saying, "You can lead a horse to water but you can't make hiom drink?" On the other hand, if you can get him to float on his back and blow smoke rings, then you've really got something!

Good luck
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