Join Date: May 2005
Location: Denver, CO (SE)
Re: Need Help Please, Z28 won't Crank at all.
A "fob" is just something on your keychain, in this case, the little alarm armer/disarmer. The fob's batteries might be exhausted, in which case, it can't send out a dis-arm signal.
[You may be able to test this by seeing if the car "beeps" and locks, and unlocks, from a bit of a distance. 20-30 feet? Okay, I see you've tried that and it works, good.] [You have also tested the battery and its ground by turning on the headlights, good.]
One thing I can't assess is if the old battery died during the winter and the car sat, would the alarm have kept all of its codes? You might check the alarm manual on that one.
I too think the problem is in the alarm system; I had all of my tail-lights fail from alarm relays just getting old and tired ... in two years.
There's no oil pressure until the engine is spinning, no worries on that.
It has a remote starter capability, you try that, it doesn't work. Hmmm. I wonder if there's a relay interrupting the starter signal in there...
Something is interfering with the battery's +12 to the starter solenoid.
It looks something along these lines:
Battery +12 -----> Fuse ----> Starter KeySwitch ---> Transmission Safety Switch ----> Clutch Safety Switch > Alarm Kill Starter Relay ----> Starter Solenoid
(If it's an automatic, you don't have a clutch, etc.)
First, check the fuse.
The transmission safety switch only allows you to engage the starter if it's in Neutral or Park. Put the Emerg. brake on, and try holding the starter keyswitch to START and wiggle the transmission selector around Park and around Neutral. If it tries to start, that switch is out of adjustment. I can only start my Camaro in certain positions when its in Neutral, for instance.
What is supposed to happen is the +12 reaches the starter "solenoid". It's just a big electromagnet. This does two things: It moves the cogs of the starter to engage the flywheel to spin the whole engine, and it closes a *huge* switch to the really thick cable of the battery, since hundreds of amps of current are going to flow. (If it was weak, you'd hear click-click-click, since the starter solenoid pulls enough current that a weak battery can't hold it extended.)
Hey ... try turning on the headlights with someone watching, and turn the key to START. Tell me if anything changes.
You could "hotwire" the car by directly connecting Battery +12 to the starter solenoid, -BUT-, if you look at the solenoid, there is a forest of wires there, all there for good reasons, and you'd be feeding +12 to them... which is not good at all. You'd burn something up.
If you're really patient and have time, go get the wiring diagrams on this car, and a Radio Shack Volt-Ohm Meter, start at the battery, and trace out the starter side until you find where the starter signal dies. Or, trace backwards from the starter. It's a little tight under these cars! Be very very careful you don't accidentally start the car while doing this.
I hope this helps some.