Ford 302 VALVE ADJUSTMENT...HELP! - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 09, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Ford 302 VALVE ADJUSTMENT...HELP!

Why cant Ford do things like Chevy... one way to adjust valves for hydraulic and one way for solid.. Not this if it has this type of rocker do this and if it has this type of stud tighten all the way till you cant tighten any more.. frigin nightmare.. Anyways I figured its easier to post a UTUBE video to show what my problem is so PLEASE VIEW IT and post back what you think?? ANY HELP AS USUAL IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!... Thanks in advance!!




P.S. The video is dark but I try to explain the problem I am having.. Also, DAMN I got such a Boston accent...
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 09, 04:28 PM
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Re: Ford 302 VALVE ADJUSTMENT...HELP!

Mark are the nuts easy to turn? it sounds like they tighten down to a collar on the stud,
what is the thread size, I don't remember when Furd went to the non adjustable rockers
I know it was kind of early. Good luck
John, With Ky accent
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 09, 04:32 PM
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Re: Ford 302 VALVE ADJUSTMENT...HELP!

Have a look at this....http://books.google.com/books?id=VU1...stment&f=false Go to page 117.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 09, 04:45 PM
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Re: Ford 302 VALVE ADJUSTMENT...HELP!

Fords have locknuts, just like Chevrolet's. You adjusted correctly, just the nuts have lost the locking ability, they are done, fatigued, useful life has been used.

Valve covers may not be tall enough for polylocks, but a good choice.
Another idea is to get a standard hex nut and use it as a lock nut as in double nutting the OE nut.

A shadetree/emergency fix on the locknut is to set it on its side, one of the hex sides, on an anvil and hit the nut with a 2 lb. maul. Locking feature comes back.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 10th, 09, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Ford 302 VALVE ADJUSTMENT...HELP!

Thanks guys I appreciate it... Only thing is.. when I read that page out of the book, it states that ALL 302 motors produced after mid 68 are non adjustable valves using different size pushrods... My motor is a 71 302 from a Torino but when I line the pushrods up they are all the same size? Like I said just a bit confusing..

Mark
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 10th, 09, 03:58 AM
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Re: Ford 302 VALVE ADJUSTMENT...HELP!

I would adjust as per Chevy and double nut them.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 09, 05:19 PM
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Re: Ford 302 VALVE ADJUSTMENT...HELP!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mark67ss View Post
Thanks guys I appreciate it... Only thing is.. when I read that page out of the book, it states that ALL 302 motors produced after mid 68 are non adjustable valves using different size pushrods... My motor is a 71 302 from a Torino but when I line the pushrods up they are all the same size? Like I said just a bit confusing..

Mark
You are right. They adjust by tightening the nut down to , I think, 30 ft/lbs of torque. It is a positive stop, no adjustment. If you have rockers ticking, you need to change pushrods. The pushrods in the engine actually should all be the same length. Loosen a couple enough to let the plunger return to the top. Then slowly tighten the nut until you just feel the lifter start to collapse, zero lash. Then turn the nut down to the stop. Less than 1/2 turn and you will need the next size longer pushrods. You need the whole set, 16, to do it right. As a side note, I also own a 1964 1/2 Mustang that I have a 302, Dan Williams Toploader in with the original engine stored away.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 17th, 09, 04:55 PM
 
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Re: Ford 302 VALVE ADJUSTMENT...HELP!

Thiose systems are called "set distance" types, they use a bottleneck stud and special champhered nut, and, they torque down to 20 ft/lbs torque after they hit bottom. Now, Ford has different length push rods, in .060 differences over the median length, to "set the distance" if the median push rod doesn't work correctly. The only way to check if the valve train is good, is to completely collapse the rocker arm into the lifter, and read the distance between the valve stem pad on the rocker, to the stem end. If I remember doing my Ford stuff right, the distance should be .210 +/- .030. To change the valve adjustment, change the length of the push rod.

Some people just tell you to double nut the studs, but that makes for a weaker valve train at the bottleneck on the stud. Poly-Loks are worse, as they will not stay locked down unless the top of the stud is ground flat, and not left with the concave divot in them.

Of course, if the block and/or heads have been decked/cut, and/or a different thickness head gasket has been used, the whole valve train setup procedure must be gone over again, and the correct push rod selected, for EVERY VALVE. If this isn't done, or not done correctly, the lifter will not have its plunger centered in the body, can hold a valve open, or have too much clearance.

As I said, people that do not understand the bottleneck stud systems, and recommend just using a jamb nut, left up the stud from the bottleneck, are just asking for stud breakage at the neck down point of the stud.

That's just the way Ford decided to do it, not a particularly good way to go about getting the valve train/rocker arm geometry correct.

Regards,

Milton
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