Brakes will not bleed - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 1st, 10, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Tom
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
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Brakes will not bleed

69 Camaro front disc brakes and rear drum. New everything. First we Bench bled the master cylinder and installed the system. We are bleeding the old fashioned way. My son pumps the pedal and holds, then I open the bleeder screw at the caliper. I have to wait 3 - 4 seconde then a dribble of fluid comes out and then re-tighten the bleeder. It does this on all 4 wheels. Normally the fluid should shoot out of the bleeder not a delayed dribble. When we drive the car it will stop but feels like I have 1/2 the stopping power. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks team Camaro
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 1st, 10, 03:12 PM
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Brett
 
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

Do you know for sure that you have the right pin that pushes the piston in the back of the master cylinder? If it is too short you will not get the full stroke.

Brett
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 1st, 10, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Tom
 
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

Installed a original disk brake pin. Is there a way to measure the length? So it sounds like the system is not getting full stroke which only allows the fluid to dribble out.?
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 1st, 10, 04:06 PM
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Bill
 
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

If it has power brakes (did not read one way or the other) best to do it when its running, I had same problems with a 68 GTO and my 66 Lemans, best advise is if everything is right just keep trying and trying. When you do the rear see if you can move the drum when the brakes are applied, could be some bad wheel cylinders too at work. Also maybe your son is not pumping fast enough and holding correctly, my last wife never could get the hang of it, *LOL*
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 1st, 10, 04:11 PM
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Brett
 
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

I installed a brake booster a few years ago, and it came with two pins. I don't remember which one I used, but the best that I recall it was obvious. I had to move the clevis on the brake pedal b/c it was originally a non-power brake system. Maybe if you take the pin out of the clevis you can push it in to see how far it takes to touch the bottom of the hole in the back of the master cylinder. Shouldn't be much.

Brett
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 1st, 10, 04:38 PM
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

Quote:
If it has power brakes (did not read one way or the other) best to do it when its running,
Thats wrong..doesnt make any difference

Are there any leaks?
How to measure the correct pin legth is described in detail in older posts search button above.
The MC may look identical but the ressess inside the end of the mc could be slightly different depth...so the pin will be wong length.

When bleeding start at the wheel farthest from the MC...
Old school method, bleeder closed, pedal down, open bleeder, release pressure, close bleeder, pedal up...repeat
It also pays to have a clear tube on the bleeders to prevent air going back in.
pumping the pedal can mix up any air in the lines..the idea is to pump the air out ....
Are the breeders at the top of the calipars and slave cylinders? If not they are on the wrong sides of the car.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 2nd, 10, 01:57 PM
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Bubba
 
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

I had pretty good luck using some speed bleeders i got in the help section @ o'reillys .they have a built in check valve that keeps you from having to open and close the bleeder i used this in combo with a long clear tube into a catch cup. goes by fairly quick.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 10, 03:33 AM
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

make sure your son keeps pressure on pedall and lets it go to the floor!
my wife helped me years ago and kept pedall in same position and never kept pressure on it and I had a heck of a time getting the air out until I instructed her lol.


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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 10, 06:29 AM
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

I bench bled my MC but turned out I didn't get it all. Had very similar issues as you're describing. Did another bench bleed with the MC on the firewall and that did the trick for me.

Matt

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 10, 07:29 AM
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

Here's something to consider. Change your brake lines. They are dirt cheap and it may save a life. I have seen all kinds of crud in brake lines and lines that look good on the outside can be rusting from the inside out, not letting you know when they are about to burst. Old brake lines and brake fluid can get interesting , I took one of my lines off and tried to blow compressed air thru and when she let go it splat a huge wad right onto my shop wall. Just saying maybe you have a slug of crap in one.

my Magnaflow X-pipe system sound clip, click the link


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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 10, 01:19 AM
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

you can try two different things that I have done before one is dont just pump the brakes but slam your foot down really hard three or four times then hold it and if that doesnt do it you can loosen the master cylinder up about a quarter in from the booster and try to bleed them again. hope this helps. or you can vacuum bleed them too.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 10, 05:22 AM
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Chuck
 
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

It could be possible that the combination valve piston is off center. Check the Master Power Brakes webshght for information on how to correct this problem.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 10, 11:15 AM
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Greg
 
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

Harbor freight has a cheap brake bleeder gun, and even cheaper when it goes on sale.
Works great on empty lines.

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 10, 12:33 PM
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

Do not overlook the fact that you could have a bad M/C right out of the box. It happens more often than you think. I had it happen twice in the last 12 months with vehicles (72 Corvette and a 68 Nova).

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 10, 03:35 PM
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sonny
 
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Re: Brakes will not bleed

also you could try gravity bleeding them. top off m/c, open up the bleeder and wait til fluid starts to run out.. worked for me.

67 RS/SS with matching engine, tranny.
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