No Burnout? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 10, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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Ashlee and Andy
 
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No Burnout?

68 Camaro;
355CID comp cams 292 deg duration cam .510 lift, 64 cc vortec heads, ~9.5:1 static compression ratio. 12 deg initial 32 total, pulls hard at all speeds, up to 6500rpm

400 turbo, not sure of the stall on the convertor, maybe 1500 or so?

stock 8.2 10 bolt, 3.07 posi

If I get lucky I can get a big old smokey burn out once in a great while, brake torquing the car gets a squak or a quick squeel once in a while, other wise car seems to over power the brakes before anything happens.

What would be my wise idea as a first upgrade to the car? I have an 8.5 nova rear, that needs a better gear set in it first. or should I do a torque convertor and a shift kit???
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 10, 03:38 AM
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Re: No Burnout?

When you step on the brake pedal, all the brakes are engaged. You're essentially heating up the trans fluid.

You should install a LineLoc for the front tires to lock up and release the brakes on the rear wheels. Set the brake pedal hard, press the button, release the brake pedal, the rear wheels turn.

After practice on using the LineLoc, I used the street in front of my house, place rear tires in the burnout box, blip the throttle to cover the tires with water, roll forward a foot or so, jab the brakes, press the button, release the pedal, select first gear, jab the throttle quickly, shift to high gear as fast as you can, when the engine loads down, release the button, let off the throttle, and roll out.

It will take some finesse, but practice is the key. What is not going to help you, is the 3.07:1 rear gear ratio. Use plenty of water under the tires.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 10, 04:52 AM
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Re: No Burnout?

1500 stall and a 292 cam sounds like the problem to me. More stall is needed to get the engine in its power band quicker. Along with Everett's suggestions as well.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 10, 06:44 AM
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Re: No Burnout?

Try 3500 stall and a 4:56 posi, that should light them up no problem...

But you will go 50mph on the highway...



Jeff G.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 10, 08:07 AM
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Re: No Burnout?

i have a 280 magnum cam and run a 3000-3500 stahl, no burn out issues here!!

love them all corvettes,camaros,chevelles!!!

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 10, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re: No Burnout?

that's what I was figuring guys, I was told when I got the car 2 years ago that It had a 2500 stall in it, but everything seems to flash and break loose around 1100 or so.

So, would I be better off starting with the gears and swapping the rear or the stall?

I'm assuming a line loc is pretty easy to install? just cut the front brake line from the master and install her there?
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 10, 05:38 PM
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Re: No Burnout?

And it probably is a 2500 stall convertor, observe the tach flashes to when WOT is demanded - greater the load, the higher the stall rpm.

Installing a LineLoc is a full day job. Unhook the front brake line from the master cylinder, install two brass adpaters(inverted flare to male pipe thread), a short length, approx 6 inches of ready made hard line, then the solenoid (LineLoc), and hook up the front brake removed from the m/c to the solenoid and bleed the front brakes.

Hook up a fused electric line to the supplied button switch, indicator light, solenoid, and ground. Pressing the switch with generate a 'click' and light comes 'on' denoting solenoid energized. Release button switch.

Press brakes hard, press and hold button switch, release brake pedal. Keep button depressed to hold front brakes. Front tires locked, rears are loose. Practice with water. Gotta remember to jab the throttle to get tires to spin and acquire high gear to finish burnout. The idea is not to do a John Force burnout as it will waste the tires - overheat them. A short one is good, the engine loading down will tell you. Release button and roll out and gently release throttle to avoid damaging trans. Stage the car and prepare.

Most important - read the supplied instruction sheet and relate the pictures to the actual work involved. Don't understand, ask. Don't attempt until you understand the effort involved. Brake system intregrity is very important.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 10, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Re: No Burnout?

thanks everit, no worries on the brake integrity, i work in a brake shop.
would the fittings be available at napa or the like? i prefer to keep my summit ordering light
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 10, 03:16 AM
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Re: No Burnout?

Yes, fittings at most auto parts stores with hard line. get the LineLoc, then get fittings.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 10, 06:30 AM
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Re: No Burnout?

If you want to do REALLY smoky burnouts try putting the linelock on the BACK WHEELS. The technique is to hit and hold the linelock button while your foot is off the brakes,then hit the brakes. This will allow you to regulate the front brake pressure while you do the burnout. The advantage is that once you get the tires burning you can slowly ease up on the brake pressure to allow the car to roll slowly while annilating the tires. If the car starts to go sideways or drag the front tires you can release the brake a bit more to get the steering to work and get the car straight so you can continue the burnout and make a rolling fog bank. The front wheel line lock is really best reserved for stick shift cars that want to lock themselves down on the line,or do a burnout with only 2 feet. An automatic car does MUCH BETTER burnout with the line lock being used to disable the rear brakes rather then lock the front brakes.

Have fun,and BTW what brand tres do you use. I was making a call to my investment guy this morning anyhow,I might as well pick up a few shares
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 10, 08:44 AM
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Re: No Burnout?

A controlled burnout - interesting. Yes, I do need to get some more stock.................

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 10, 01:52 PM
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Re: No Burnout?

Sounds like you could be missin the clutch pedal on that car. Ever since I put one of those in noticed I can do burnouts anywhere/anytime.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 10, 03:58 PM
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Re: No Burnout?

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Originally Posted by Everett#2390 View Post
A controlled burnout - interesting. Yes, I do need to get some more stock.................
Yup,its awsome. I can slam the brake pedal down, bring the throttle up until the tiires get smoking,get up some wheel speed,start to let off the brakes a little and let the car start moving foward while still keeping enough wheelspeed to stop the car from grabbing. I can smoke the tires for over 100 feet no problem. I did a burnout with my race car on my street in front of my house once. I started in front of my friends house aboout 3 doors down the street,got it up to about 7500rpm in high gear while standing still(on the slicks) and then let the car slowly roll forward. I made it all the way to my house(250 feet) and into my driveway with the tires blazing and the car never went over about 25 mph. I actually sped the car up to 25 mph then slowed it down to turn into the driveway,then burned the tiires as I was stopped in the driveway in the parking spot.

It is a reckless display of power!
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 10, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Re: No Burnout?

Rich, now that sounds like fun! I was a little leary of doing it the other way round, but my car is currently an auto, so that should work out great (the clutch pedal hanging under the dash throws a lot of people)

I was thinking about it at work, I just completely went through my brake system a few months ago, was wondering why the PO had installed a p-valve in the rear brake line, I got rid of it when I had to do new lines, also the back drums were WAAAAAAyyy out of adjustment, so that'd be why it'd burn them easier, also I put in a much wider tire (305/65/15 IIRC, from a 215/65/15 when I got her) so both of those would be why I started having this issue. It definately isn't a power issue, car pulls to 6500 in no time flat, shifts a little soft though. That'll be adressed after the line loc and gears when I end up changing the convertor.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 10, 08:44 PM
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Re: No Burnout?

I agree with the comments on the TC stall. Just beware that stall speed is torque dependent so the ratings are a little obscure. For example a so-called 2000 RPM stall converter may stall at 1500 RPM if the motor is producing 100 ft*lbs of torque. But the same converter might stall at 2400 at a torque of 300 ft*lbs. The torque your engine produces at the stall speed is highly dependent on your cam which will affect the point where the engine's torque band comes in. In other words, the science is not exact when matching a cam to a TC.

Dave
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68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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