69 won't start - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 10, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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69 won't start

I've gone through a lot of threads, and based on what I've read I think I have a bad starter. Just wanted to get some feedback before I spend the money on a new one though.

All lights, radio, etc work fine w/ key in ACC. I get a loud "CLICK" when I turn to start position. It's not cranking at all.

It was doing this same thing a few weeks ago, and mysteriously, after my turning the key in the ignition several times more, it started up. Had no problems again until yesterday. Checked all my connections, but don't see anything loose.

Bad starter?

Edit: BTW, I think that I read that, in order to test whether or not I have a bad cable connection, I can disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery and the starter and replace with a jumper cable. Is that right? May be a dumb question, but trying to avoid any electrical burns, a la Tim the Tool Man Taylor.

Last edited by ZaCamaro69; Oct 20th, 10 at 02:45 PM.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 10, 05:13 PM
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Re: 69 won't start

The loud click is the solenoid energizing and connects the two terminals inside to apply power to the motor. Several problems here, could be any one of them or a combination.

Over time and countless starts, the copper bolt heads get carbon buildup and restrict current flow to the motor. Disconnecting the ground cable first, and removing the solenoid and either replace the solenoid or disassemble the end and rotate the bolts and the disc to provide a clean contact area helps.

Another problem can be too small wire size of battery cables and/or the surface the cable ends attach is corroded, especially on the battery posts, check engine ground also. Minimum cable size is 1 AWG.

The last problem can be a battery either being old, not able to supply the current demand, or not being charged enough. Measuring the battery across the posts during the START action, it should not read below 9.5 volts. If it does, then either battery is bad or alternator is not charging enough, min 13.5 volts, 13.8 volts is better, at operating temperature after 15-20 minutes of running, or long enough in recharge time.

Alt belt could be slipping, red wires from alternator BATT stud to horn relay buss bar to junction block next to battery and cable pigtail may have some resistance/rust and need wire brushing to aid in current flow for recharging.

Yes, you can use a jumper cable from battery post to starter to troubleshoot.
It even could be the starter brushes/armature are worn and starter needs rebuilding or replacement.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 21st, 10, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 69 won't start

Quote:
Originally Posted by Everett#2390 View Post
The loud click is the solenoid energizing and connects the two terminals inside to apply power to the motor. Several problems here, could be any one of them or a combination.

Over time and countless starts, the copper bolt heads get carbon buildup and restrict current flow to the motor. Disconnecting the ground cable first, and removing the solenoid and either replace the solenoid or disassemble the end and rotate the bolts and the disc to provide a clean contact area helps.

Another problem can be too small wire size of battery cables and/or the surface the cable ends attach is corroded, especially on the battery posts, check engine ground also. Minimum cable size is 1 AWG.

The last problem can be a battery either being old, not able to supply the current demand, or not being charged enough. Measuring the battery across the posts during the START action, it should not read below 9.5 volts. If it does, then either battery is bad or alternator is not charging enough, min 13.5 volts, 13.8 volts is better, at operating temperature after 15-20 minutes of running, or long enough in recharge time.

Alt belt could be slipping, red wires from alternator BATT stud to horn relay buss bar to junction block next to battery and cable pigtail may have some resistance/rust and need wire brushing to aid in current flow for recharging.

Yes, you can use a jumper cable from battery post to starter to troubleshoot.
It even could be the starter brushes/armature are worn and starter needs rebuilding or replacement.
Someone recently told me that they thought my battery cables were too small. Was told the same about the wire running from my alternator to battery (it's a self-regulated one on a serpentine system and it's almost brand new, so new rust or build up yet).

Gotta leave town for a wedding today. Will report back on Sunday and let you know how it goes. In the meantime, thanks for the input.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Oct 24th, 10, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 69 won't start

Hey Everett -- Since you gave me all that info, ust wanted to let you know what I ended up up with... And, unfortunately, I don't know for certain what the issue was.

I didnt' follow the KISS principle, but instead when straight to pilling the starter. Exchanged it for a new one. Got home and it was the wrong damn one. Took, it back. Thought, hey maybe I should bench test the hold one before I buy another. Did so and it worked fine. So, reinstalled the starter, made sure all the contacts/posts were glimmering. I think the solenoid has been replaced since the starter, because the Bat + terminal was gleaming copper and the others had almost no no gunk build up. So, I put the old starter back in. then saw that the wire going from the solenoid to the distributer (the smaller tan one) was EFFED up, bad. Was crimped between the bell housing, actually Was barely hanging together. So I replaced that. THEN went to where you told me to start, basically, and removed the neg battery gronds. Took a medium course brush wire to the bolts, star washers and, frame and block. Put everything back together and -- BAM! Everything seems good to good to go now.

So, I don't know if it was that wire coming off the solenoid, or if I had bad grounds, but I'm betting it was the tan wire off the solenoid. It was completetly trashed and my other grounds look good... Incientally, I'm saying battery groundS (plural) b/c there's a spot where it grounds into the engine block and from there, there's a threaded looking thing where it grounds to the frame via this weird looking connection that looks like it's very fine, braided wire. That braid goes from the engine block ground to the frame. Gotta be OEM, because who braids anything theses days! HA!

Anyways, thanks a ton.
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