Starting problem - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 11, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Jim
 
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Starting problem

I posted this ad in the tech section and just realized that there is a troubleshooting section. I do not know how to move it so please forgive me.

I started my car up last weekend and moved it outside to let it warm up. I went back in the garage and continued working. With all the noise from the compressor and heater, I failed to notice that the car had stalled and could have been sitting there for 20 minutes that way. When I went to restart the car, it would crank but got no spark. I have checked several things and replaced a few to try to eliminate the problem.

I replaced the coil and points and condensor.

I checked the voltage on the positive terminal of the coil and get about 8.1 volts without cranking and 10.0 while cranking. I have checked and there does not seem to be any spark coming from the coil into the coil wire. There is no spark going to the plugs either.

the white resistor wire that attaches to the + terminal of the coil seems to be getting hot.

any help or suggestions?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 11, 01:51 PM
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Al
 
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Re: Starting problem

Make sure your new points are adjusted correctly.

Do you have a yellow wire running from the "R" terminal (the outside one) on the starter solenoid to coil +? If not, disconnect the resistor wire from coil +. Run a jumper wire from batt + to coil + and see if it starts.


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 11, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Jim
 
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Re: Starting problem

yes, it does have a yellow wire that runs to the solenoid. it is on the same terminal as the resistor wire
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 11, 01:59 PM
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Al
 
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Re: Starting problem

I'd disconnect those and try the jumper wire, just to possibly eliminate that circuit as the culprit.


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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 11, 07:56 PM
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Re: Starting problem

good response---usually points too close or arced causes resister to heat up
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 11, 08:51 PM
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Alan
 
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Re: Starting problem

He said he got 10 V when cranking, wouldn't you expect 12.0V at crank? Weak battery?

alan
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 11, 09:34 PM
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Steiner
 
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Re: Starting problem

You'll only get 9-10V cranking due to the starter pulling system voltage down. That's why the yellow wire is there....the resistor wire already causes a voltage drop at the coil so it would really be handicapped without the yellow wire.

Most likely a point adjustment. You did the right thing to replace everything because if the car shut off and the engine happened to stop with the points closed and the key on "RUN" it would've baked everything anyway. You won't see spark coming from the coil with the coil plug disconnected because it will be a constant voltage. The resistor wire will get hot in normal usage.

'69 Camaro
Dart 400-AFR 195-224/224 HR-Powerjection III TB with F.A.S.T. Sportsman XFI
TKO 600-Moser 3.42-Detroit Truetrac
500hp/538lbft

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'69 Camaro Beater-SFT 327-M20-Moser 4.10-sold
'02 Z/28 vert-stock-sold and totaled
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 11, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Jim
 
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Re: Starting problem

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I have tried just about everything. I replaced the cap, rotor, points, condensor. I was hoping that the new points would be close enough to get it started then set it with the dwell meter. I even pulled the dist out and set them and put it back in. still no fire.

Someone suggested running a hot wire to the battery from the positive coil terminal. That still didnt work.

any more suggestions anyone?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 11, 12:18 PM
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Alan
 
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Re: Starting problem

Bad Coil? I know you said you replaced the coil but any possibility it is bad? If you replaced the points and nothing hot is grounding out, there really isn't too much else that can go wrong. I did see you went with a jumper directly from the battery to the coil so we can rule out wiring from ignition switch to the coil.

You can disconnect the distributor at the coil and test it with a multimeter. That would rule out the distributor as far as the electrics go. With the points opened there should not be any contiuity between the distributor wire and ground. With the points closed, you should have a complete circuit to ground. Also, check the condensor. There should be no continuity between the lead and the case when it is disconnected.

alan
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 11, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Jim
 
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Re: Starting problem

Thanks Alan. I checked the distributor for continuity and that was the problem. It turns out that the new points that I bought were bad. I cant believe everything I went through and it was just the points. I guess I got a new cap and rotor and coil now. At least it is running now! Many thanks to everyone.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 11, 03:29 PM
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Alan
 
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Re: Starting problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by jims68z View Post
Thanks Alan. I checked the distributor for continuity and that was the problem. It turns out that the new points that I bought were bad. I cant believe everything I went through and it was just the points. I guess I got a new cap and rotor and coil now. At least it is running now! Many thanks to everyone.
A friend of mine went thru the exact same thing with her new minivan a few years ago. Car quits, diagnosis-bad fuel pump. Pump replaced, car keeps stalling. After many trips to the dealership, area supervisors etc. turns out the "new" replacement fuel pump was faulty.

Never assume anything.

alan
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 11, 05:40 PM
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Fred
 
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Re: Starting problem

Did I ever tell you guys my "points" story?
You're gonna get no matter what.
OK, Sailboat. Atomic 4 Model-A gas engine. New points. Traveled 8 hours to the San Juan Islands. Engine tried to die while pulling into an achorage. Went to the marina instead. Trouble shot for two days. Replaced the coil and points. Checked everything. Hell, the boat was only 3 years old. What gives?
All it could be was TWO sets of bad points IN A ROW. Sputtered to Friday Harbor, scored DELCO points, end of problem.

One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new
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)
RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495,
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128.79mph 1.428 60'
All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)
+ MT Super Scavenger headers & 3" full exhaust with X pipe. 3700 lbs. with me in it.
1000cfm AED and HD Harold-Lunati SR, 725 lift with shaft rockers too.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 11, 06:49 PM
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Al
 
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Re: Starting problem

Oh Jeez - not that story again!


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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 11, 10:35 PM
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Re: Starting problem

Quote:
All it could be was TWO sets of bad points IN A ROW. Sputtered to Friday Harbor, scored DELCO points, end of problem.
I learnt the hard way decades ago.....wipe cardboard betwen the contacts before installing....wipe the anti corrosion stuff /oil off 8 time out of 10 doesnt matter, the 1 other time garanteed Murphy will step in at the worst possible time.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 11, 12:02 PM
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Fred
 
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Re: Starting problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe View Post
I learnt the hard way decades ago.....wipe cardboard betwen the contacts before installing....wipe the anti corrosion stuff /oil off 8 time out of 10 doesnt matter, the 1 other time garanteed Murphy will step in at the worst possible time.
Yeah, I learned too. Stop using points.

One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new
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)
RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495,
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128.79mph 1.428 60'
All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)
+ MT Super Scavenger headers & 3" full exhaust with X pipe. 3700 lbs. with me in it.
1000cfm AED and HD Harold-Lunati SR, 725 lift with shaft rockers too.
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