Help with HEI - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 02, 03:20 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Fort Mill, SC, USA
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Angry

I just converted from a points ignition to an HEI ignition. Everything seemed ok...so I thought. I used a 12ga wire from the ignition to the fuse panel. Ok so far. My problem is that if I leave the truck for an hour or so, it won't start. I'm positive it's the HEI system but I don't know what needs to be fixed. I just put a new cap/rotor on it.
I can get the thing to start if I splice a wire to the +ignition wire and strike it against the +battery terminal while someone turns the key.
Can anyone help?

(The +ign. wire is on an unfused block labelled ign. will this work?)

------------------
Jeff

[This message has been edited by ncmurf00 (edited 02-05-2002).]
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 02, 06:24 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ncmurf00:
I just converted from a points ignition to an HEI ignition. Everything seemed ok...so I thought. I used a 12ga wire from the ignition to the fuse panel. Ok so far. My problem is that if I leave the truck for an hour or so, it won't start. I'm positive it's the HEI system but I don't know what needs to be fixed. I just put a new cap/rotor on it.
I can get the thing to start if I splice a wire to the +ignition wire and strike it against the +battery terminal while someone turns the key.
Can anyone help?

(The +ign. wire is on an unfused block labelled ign. will this work?)

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sounds like you are getting power through the resistor block. The HEI won't/ can't work with the resistor block. My guess is that when the car is cold it feeds just enough to let the car start but as it warms up the resistance also goes up and doesn't supply enough juice to the HEI. Make sure you are connected to a full 12 volt, keyed power supply and you shouldn't have any trouble.

This is just my guess --good luck
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 02, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Fort Mill, SC, USA
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Smile

Thanks for the reply, but I think I was a little fuzzy in my description. If I can "hot wire" it to start then it's good, and runs fine. If I shut it off and start it up again, it's good. But if I let it cool for over an hour, then it won't fire up without scrapping a wire to the battery.
I'm currently running the BATT wire through the firewall and directly into the fuse box.
Is there somewhere else it's supposed to go?
Is there an internal part to the HEI system that may be bad?

Thanks for your patience. (Newbie)
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 02, 07:45 AM
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Did you wire the BATT lead to the ignition or the accessory bus in your fuse box?? The accessory bus goes dead when the ignition switch is in the start position. If you wired it this way, the car might just hit when it's cold as you release the key since the manifold and cylinders are so full of fuel. When it's hot, fuel is more scarce and it might not fire up with one or two lucky sparks!

Put a test light on the BATT terminal and make sure that the power is good with the key in both the run and start positions. You might also want to make sure that the distributor has a good ground on it. Sometimes the hold down clamp isn't that great a ground source.

[This message has been edited by PDQUICK (edited 02-05-2002).]
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 02, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for your help, I'll give it a try tonight. (I think it may be the ground)
My Batt wire is on a post in the fuse box labelled (Unfused Ign) but I'll check around. Who knows what was done before my time. HA
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 5th, 02, 03:16 PM
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Anytime temperature and the absence of signal is present I always suspect a terminal or connection somewhere. The cooling of a connector will shrink sometimes to the extent to disconnect the signal. Go figure?

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STEVE JACK
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 02, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Fort Mill, SC, USA
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Well guys, thanks for your wonderful support.
I went to the parts store last night and picked up some electrical parts cleaner, a new ignition coil and the Ign Ctrl Mod.
Fired right up. I still have a problem with my fusebox voltage dropping to 10V when the starter's engaged. But it's working.

Now if can only get the carburetor air/fuel mixture right. (The never ending battle)
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 7th, 02, 01:45 AM
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The fuse block voltage drops to 10V while cranking bc the battery voltage drops to 10V!! This is normal. The starter motor draws 200-300 amps on a V8 and it will suck the battery down a couple of volts while cranking. If it gets down below 8-9V, then either your battery is weak or the starter is drawing too much current.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 7th, 02, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the info, while reading other posts, everyone seemed to be so adament about the 12 volts
I had to mention it.
Just picked up a vaccum gauge last night, my next project is the air/fuel mixture and timing. Runs good now, but nothing's ever "perfect" right?
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