High Idel Driving Me Crazy..! - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 01, 03:53 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
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Angry

Can anyone please help? I have an 89' IROC-Z 305 TPI 5-Speed. The problem is that the idle is very high on the car, it starts fine and runs fine, but when I get to a stop it idles high. Not eratic or anything just high, like I have my foot on the gas or the choke is stuck or something. When I tap the gas the idle goes down but still seems a bit high. I can drive in 5th gear @ 35/40 MPH without even touching the gas. Any help please.

1989 IROC-Z Convertible
305 TPI 5-Speed
All Stock
86,000 miles
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 01, 05:56 AM
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John
 
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sounds like a choke problem. I don't know too much about the TPI, but I have a carb and it did the same thing until I got it set right.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 01, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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Unhappy

Im not sure if this car even has a choke, Im sure its electronic. I have no idea where to start.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 01, 03:04 PM
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David Pozzi
 
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Check for vaccum leaks, maybe a hose is bad of came off.
David

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 01, 03:07 PM
 
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go to the ALDL under the dash. Jump Terminals a & B. Turn the ign on. Wait 30 seconds, turn the key off. Unplug the connector from the IAC motor (4 wire square connector on the drivers front of the throttle body. Leave the connector unplugged, start the car.

If it still idle's high, you may have
vacuum leak
throttle open too far
IAC Valve bad - stuck open

If it idles down, you have a problem where the computer is commanding the IAC open to raise the idle speed. Take it to a repair shop to have it checked.

Lurk
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 01, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question

Lurker,

I have some idea of what you said, but can you explain it in a bit more detail. and taking it to the dealership is almost out of the question, by the time they are done with you, you could have bought 2 tickets to the Bahamas.
i need to fix this at home if possible. More help needed please.......
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 01, 04:57 PM
 
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please, give us dealer guys a break! if you brought that to where i work, we'd charge you 1/2 hour diagnosis time to tell you what was wrong and if it was no big deal, fix it as well. we're not all bad guys!
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 01, 06:03 PM
 
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Under the dash on the drivers side (usually) is a 12 pin connector that is likely attached to the bottom of the dash panel. Get a flashlight and find terminals A & B they are usually the top left. Make certain you know which one is A & B if you arent sure dont jump them!

Use a paper clip and connect the two terms together. Turn the ign key on (dont start it). You can be sure the two are jumped because the service engine soon or check engine light will flash. wait about 30 seconds, then go out under the hood to the throttle body (where the big duct tube goes).

Look on the sides for a 4 wire square connector. Turn ign off, and unplug the connector under the hood. Then unjump the A&B terminals and Start the car.

If it idles down, the Computer is commanding a high idle speed. It could do this for several reasons including

Power steering input
A/C input
Overheating
Cold Start

If the engine still runs at high speed, the IAC could be bad, or you could have a vacuum leak or the throttle could be open too far.

That is as close as you can get with simple hand tools.

You dont have to take it to the dealer. Find a TechNet Professional Auto Repair shop in your area by calling 1-800-832-4638. This will give you a listing of reputable independant repair shops.

Lurk
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 01, 06:47 PM
 
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The dealers always rip you off Sorry Tom but most do. Take it to a trusted shop.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 9th, 01, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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I did not mean to offend anyone from a dealership. I worked in a Chevy dealer for 7 years as a boby man, and I know what the service writers and techs can do to an unsuspecting soul. True they are not all bad, but by the time you find one you can trust, you have a fortune in the car.

Anyway thanks Lurker for the detailed info, I will try this out this weekend. I did take it to a local shop for the diagnostic ($60.00) and the car did not throw a single code. they wanted to sit on it for a day and and prod around some more, for a nominal fee of course. I thought I would come here first and talk with guys that know what they are doing on these cars. Thanx
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 9th, 01, 02:32 PM
 
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hey, no problem, i do realize alot of places will take advantage of 'un-suspecting' souls, but i also think that the theifs in the buisness don't know their a$$ from a hole in the ground!! by the way, not that i'm god or anything, but i am an ase certified master mechanic[ for what it is worth ] and if i can't fix it, i don't charge for it!! just my way of doing things. i hate guys that just throw parts at cars untill something makes a difference[ i call it shot-gunning ]. with the right resources, and some carefull thought anything can be fixed right the first time. hate to ramble on, but i hear a lot of crap about all mechanics just wanting to rip people off. if you were near enough to me i'd fix your car,wash it and buy you a beer!! just my $.02 p.s. rough day today, just venting.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 9th, 01, 03:21 PM
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Lightbulb

I have an '89 iroc-z with a 350 tpi in, had a similar problem where if I ran the rpm up to 2000 and slowly eased off the gas, rpm hung at 2000. started checking torque on all bolts including the plenum chamber, runners, and all bolts(including the screws holding the upper & lower cover plates) on the throttle body. also replaced some questionable vaccum lines. found about fifteen or twenty that were loose to some extent. after tightening to proper torque it runs great. don't know if this applies in your case, but hey "what the heck"?
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 10th, 01, 03:09 AM Thread Starter
 
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thanx for all the info, i have my work cut out for me this weekend, tom, i wish you were in florida so i could take my car to ya. trickster, i found 3 vac-hoses so far that i replaced (no fix yet), but i will check every nut & bolt, and i am going to check the componants that lurker mentioned.thanx again for the help, i will keep you informed of the outcome..Bombero
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 10th, 01, 05:54 AM
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I had an 86 vette with the tpi. I know that they have chaged over the years and yours may not be equipped with a cold start injectorn but mine was, and it wasn't seating right, and I needed to replaace the oring. the injector is on the drivers side, jsut behind the forward runner. Short of that, find someone with a scan tool (like me) who can go over all the sensor values for about a six pack, in hot weather, this rate is inflated to a 12 pack, hell i'd even share with ya

G'luck
John
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Mar 10th, 01, 04:32 PM
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Cool

Bombero437,
in my previous post to you concerning the high idle, a couple of things i forgot to mention that might help you. if your car is like mine, you should have an egr solenoid mounted next to your ignition coil(if you have a remote located coil, that is.), there are two vaccum lines running from it. one to the egr valve and the other to the bottom of the throttle body on the drivers side. take these two lines off and spray some carb cleaner through them. they sometimes get clogged and cause the egr to give false signals to the ecm(brainbox). i would also do this to all my vaccum lines just to be on the safe side. the torque values for your bolts can be found in both the haynes and chilton maintenance book. good luck with this, i am spending the weekend changing out my brake lines and flushing out my cooling system.
p.s. i used to live in florida until "andrew" blew me out.
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