If you want to reduce the initial for easy cranking, you can add a few degrees to the centrifugal and take a few out of the initial by widening up the autocam advance slot slightly. I have mine set for 16 initial and she starts up fine(as long as she cranks)
If you can get that NAPA advance canister I mentioned earlier and hook it up to the intake vacuum it would give you much more advance at idle using less initial. You have the best of both worlds that way. Lower initial for cranking and higher initial once she fires up. That will realy help smooth out the idle and reduce temperatures while idling with that setup. You will need to re-set the carb mixture screws and idle speed screw when you do this as the RPM's will realy pick up once you hook up the canister to the vacuum signal.
You can't use the factory can hooked up that way as it will cause the idle to fluctuate. The factory can does not pull "in" all the way at the roughly 9" of idle vacuum so the timing will bounce around as the vacuum bounces around
. The NAPA can will be fully "in" at the low idle vacuum produced by the "30-30" cam so the RPM's will hold steady.
This is how I have mine set up.
P.S. - If you are using stock style stamped steel rockers, you need to set the valves at .026" cold. The .030" spec was based on "theoretical" 1.5 ratio rockers but the factory pieces will check out at about 1.33 ratio so the original spec has been wrong for close to 40 years
. This is where all that valvetrain "noise" is coming from. It's your valves beating down on the seats at full lift ramp velocity and causing valve recession.
If you would like the long version of the valve setting technique and explanation, just ask. I have it saved to my hard drive in case it comes up. [img]smile.gif[/img]
[ 08-17-2003, 12:50 AM: Message edited by: stingr69 ]