Control modular failure - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 00, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
Tech Team
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 35

I originally posted this under general tech, but I think the problem is a trouble shooter. Here's the deal - 68 Camaro, 350 w/H.E.I., had a minor electrical fire, the plastic grommet that plugs into the key (this grommet holds 8 ingnition wires, has a three prong clip, clips directly into the key/lock cylinder) melted, so I was left not knowing were the wires should be connected to the new key cylinder. Buy running the a wire from the Battery connection on the fuse box, to the battery connection on the H.E.I., I can use the key to start the car, and it will run for about 1 to 2 minutes, then it burns out the control modular, I do not race the RPM's I let it idle. A guy suggested (gheatly) the voltage regulator, and I am suspect of it as well, unfortunatly I am a body, and drivetrain man, and am completely in the dark about how a 12 volt system really works, aside from using a test lite, and a volt meter I'm useless, what do I need to do to get this thing to run. (i think i need to get rid of the external volt regulation system, buy a new alternater, internally regulated, Can I do that? on a 68?

[This message has been edited by Chris Maher (edited 01-13-2000).]
Chris Maher is offline  
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 00, 06:34 AM
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 92


hopefully this will help. I had to do the exact same repair as you face. After you buy the new 3-prong module the wiring order is as follows: (hold the module with terminals facing you) (1) 10 o'clock position is marked BAT- 12g Red (2) 12 o'clock ACC - 24g Brn/W AND 12 Brn (3) 1 o'clock SOL - 12g Purple (4) 2 o'clock IGN - 12 Pink (5) Center post - KEY+ 20 Pink (6) 6 o'clock KEY- - 20 Black (7) 8 o'clock GRD - 20DG. This is the way I set up my switch. ADDITIONALLY, I also removed the 10-12 Red lead from the battery that goes under the core support to horn relay and replace it with a lead from starter that has an INLINE fuse (20 amp). This has been a lifesaver, it will save the whole wiring from frying again.... Summit Racing provided me a One-Wire alternator with internal regulator that eliminates the original alternator wiring AND the voltage regulator. I use a MSD system with a Unilite (could be any distributor as far as the MSD is concerned) and have great success. I will check your post several times a day if you have any questions, I know this can be a VERY frustrating part of the "fun". Good luck!!!!!
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