engine vibration! - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old May 4th, 03, 04:10 AM Thread Starter
 
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I have a bad engine vibration (like running on 7 cylynders)its a 327 w/ Comp Cams 292 magnum cam wiend team G intake headers edlebrock carb HEI ignition, manual transmission. I have disconnected all belts and vibration is still there, I have changed the plugs, vibratin still there, I have pulled each plug individually and cranked the motor with the wire attached and every plug fires. I have checked for intake leaks, no leaks. I'm starting to think internal engine balance problem. Could it be the flywheel? Or harmonic balancer?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old May 4th, 03, 09:23 AM
 
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check timing; valve adjustment; spk plg wire condition; dist cap; cylinder compression;
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old May 4th, 03, 10:30 AM
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I too had a vibration problem, it was the flywheel, replaced it with the correct one (new engine internally balanced) and the vibration went away...If it is the same engine, try to rotate the flywheel from the torque converter one bolt hole and see if that helps...good luck...Mike

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old May 4th, 03, 12:31 PM
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You might consider disconnecting the torque converter from the flex plate and see what you get. It's possible the converter is the problem. But more importantly, if the vibration is still there, but resonance changes, you'll most likely isolate a problem in the rotating assembly. If the vibration doesn't change much, it could be the harmonic balancer.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old May 4th, 03, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the responses, however I don't think its the torque converter, because it doesn't have one (4spd), compression is fine, wires are fine, timing is fine, but I have not checked valve lash. I'll check that next, because thats a lot easier than pulling the tranny, but I think my problem is the flywheel. Thanks again for the responses. This website is a great tool for help and ideas!!
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old May 4th, 03, 02:09 PM
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Slick,
Is this something that just started on an engine that has been running fine, or is it a problem with a new engine. Flywheels generally do not go out of balance. If the problem just started, then I doubt it is the flywheel. Also, are you sure it is a "vibration" ?? Or a rough running condition ? Out of balance "vibrations" generally get worse as the rpm is increased.
Hope this helps,

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old May 6th, 03, 03:30 PM
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Slick, tell us some more. Does it vibrate at idle (car still) or only while the car is moving? Does it vibrate at all rpm or only in a certain rpm range? Do you feel the vibration in your seat or in the steering wheel? What have you done to the car? Is the motor freshly rebuilt? Have you done suspension work? Have you had the drive shaft out?Have you had the tranny out?
If the car vibrates at idle (car still) I would check the balancer, the engine mounts, the tranny mount and then the components in the bellhousing including the balance of the flywheel and pressure plate and check the pilot bearing in the back of the crank. I hope someone can help with this, but many cars had very specific bolts (with shoulders) that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. If you are using standard hardware store bolts, they don't have the shoulders on them to exactly center the pressure plate (picture how the lug nut holds the wheel in perfect position and you get the idea). These are just thoughts to start with. Let us know more.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old May 6th, 03, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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The engine has about 6k miles on it, it was rebuilt prior to me buying it, the car is a frame off restoration new body bushings new motor mounts, new trans mount. The engine has had this vibration since I've owned it. The engine vibrates with the car sitting still.The vibration is felt in the seat, floor,dash. The vibe gets progressivly worse as engine speed increases. I have been told that small block flywheels don't get out of balance (except the 400) is this true? As for the bolts in the flywheel I have no idea if they are original. Is it possible to use a 400 external balance flywheel with an internally balanced 327? maybe the wrong flyweel was used??? Thanks for everyones opinions.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old May 7th, 03, 04:02 AM
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Your problem is exactly the same as one I am trying to solve right now. One of the best driveline guys in Denver is walking me through some steps trying to solve and I will pass them on to you. His first step was to check the bolts holding the pressure plate. This may not apply to your motor. Maybe a shop like Ground UP or Ricks can tell you if there are specific bolts to position your pressure plate to the fly wheel. I could check mine through the inspection plate and by replacing these bolts, the vibration was reduced by at least 50% (but still there). Next step was to pull the balancer on the front of the engine and check it for cracking and to see if the outer ring may have slipped in relation to the inner ring. To check for slippage, bring the #1 cylinder up to TDC and make sure that the timing pointer is aimed at "0" on the balancer. If not, something is off. Next, even though you said the motor mounts are new, I would put on the e-brake, chalk the tires and with the motor running pop the clutch a bit and see if the motor lifts from the mounts. Someone can assist you with watching the motor but make sure they are standing to the side of the car in the event it jumps forward. Now if all this checks out, it's time to get under the car and pull the tranny. Take the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate in to a shop that can inspect and balance for you if needed. They should be able to tell you if you have the correct fly wheel. While you have the tranny out, check the pilot bearing and see if it may be worn. My flywheel is getting balanced right now so we will see if that solves the problem. If not, he said there is a problem in the engine - at which time I cry and throw things. I hope someone else will add to this if there are other things to check, but that is the process I have been though. By the way, just sitting, my car has no vibration until about 2,000 rpm and then vibration starts and gets worse up to just over 3,000 rpm and then it goes away completely. Best wishes and I hope you will let us know what solves the problem.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old May 7th, 03, 05:29 AM
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Check in the engine and transmission areas of this site and you will find some other discussion on vibration that may help.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old May 9th, 03, 05:57 PM
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"Manual Transmission.... Could it be the flywheel? Or harmonic balancer?"
Yep. Do you get a rattle some times after letting out the clutch in neutral? I do. Bad boy went and poked around finding the perfect launch rpm. Had to start at 5K and work my way down. Best laubch is 1.5K but I'm happy i started high in more ways than one. Oh brother what a night.
Is there any noise associated with the vibration? I'm wondering if it's in the clutch area or an engine cycling thing. Maybe even the input shaft bearing to the trans. If you have converted to HEI on an older model engine the wire from the distributor cap labeled BATTERY to the ignition circuit under the dash has to be converted to a 12 gauge wire that is a non resistor wire like the original set up. That old wire will leave you with 9volts at the distributor and at 2K or higher rpm things get flaky and plugs aren't firing right. Ask me how I know Anyway try the main page https://www.camaros.net and browse thru the stuff where HEI conversions cover this problem. It's best to after crimping connectors go and solder the wire into the connector by heating the connector then put the solder on the wire till it sucks the solder into the connector. Watch the hot finger availabiltiy while doing it.
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