Help! Can't get Angie's windows to work! - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 00, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Brian Cooper
 
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Angry

I know this is off subject, but I can't get the power windows to work on the 76 Vette. Am getting 12 volts to the relay in the console. No current out of the relay to the switches. Have already looked for poor grounds on the relay, but everything is cleaned and still no dice. I get continuity from the relay to the switch, and if I use a jumper wire to bypass the relay the windows work. I have replaced the relay, but the morons at the local dealer took 40 minutes to find the part number since it is not on the original part. Could my replacement GM part be just as broken as the 26 year old original? The switches work, the wires are not broken, the circuit breaker on the fuse block is working, but I can't get current after the relay to the switches. I have all the wire loom tape off the harness, so I know the wires are fine. I know the motors work since the windows work if you bypass the switch. What am I missing?

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 00, 03:09 PM
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Where are you bypassing the console switch (assume that's the relay you are replacing)? If your unhooking the wires at the switch and putting the wires together and the window works I would think the switch is bad. Even if it is the wrong one it should work the same. If you just grabbed batt and applied it to the motor and it worked I think there is a circuit breaker between the switch and the motor. Maybe it's the bad part...

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 00, 04:01 PM
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I agree with DjD, I think you must have either the incorrect relay, or another defective one. Can you make the relay "click" by applying 12 volts to the terminals until you find the correct combination? If there is no clicking, then the relay is still no good. Hope this helps.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 00, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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The switches are good. I am bypassing the relay at the relay. The circuit breakers are good. The Corvette forum has cross referenced the number and it is correct. The grounds are good. The wires are good. What do you mean by jump 12 volts into the relay. I connected it the only way the connector will fit, and there is 12 volts coming out of the connector into the relay? So using a jumper wire would be the same as connecting the relay to the plug, right?

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 00, 01:43 PM
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57 - if I understand this, there is a relay that is operated by the up/down switch and that relay should be operating the motor.

Do you have the relay bolted down or is it just hanging since that is what you replaced? If it's hanging try bolting it in place, it may be getting grounded that way...



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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 00, 02:02 PM
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57 - There should be some marking on the relay indicating which terminals are the coil, measure the resistance (ohms) and see if there is resistance. If there is the you should be able to apply 12v across those to terminals and the relay should pull in. If there is no resistance then the relay is bad.

If there are no markings on the relay, how many terminals do you have?

Kevin

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 00, 04:57 PM
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Kevin couldn't have explained it better, that was what I was referring to by applying 12 volts to the relay to see if it would click, or pull in. There should be a way to determine the terminals attached to the coil, apply the 12 volts to those terminals, if nothing happens, the relay is no good.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 00, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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The relay is bolted down and the contacts are clean. There are no markings, not even a part number, on either the original relay, or the GM replacement part. If it gets worm enough outside to work I will try jumping accross the orange lead in and the red lead to the switch. Am I on the right track?

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 00, 07:08 AM
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57 - how many terminals are on the relay? I am guessing there are 5. If this is the case; 2 will be for the coil, 1 should be the common for the motor and the other 2 will be for the polarity on the motor.

If you measure the resistance with an ohm meter, with power off across the coil you will get a reading slightly higher than a short. Between the contacts of the relay, one set will be a dead short nad the other should be open.

Hope this helps out.

Kevin

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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There are three terminals.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 06:53 AM
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3? you dont by chance have a copy of the wiring diagram do you? if not, i can probably run down to a parts store and see if they have a diagram. Unless somebody knows where that info is online.

Kevin

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 11:16 AM
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if it's one of those plastic cube type relays, you might be able to carefully pry off the cover and clean the contacts inside.

They can get dirty and quit or sometimes they don't hit right and fail to make contact even though they are being pulled by the electromagnet.

I had one for a power antenna that looked fine and opened and closed when the radio was turned on but it turned out one side of the contact was just barely touching the contact and there was just a speck of carbon from sparking that prevented good contact.

Your replacement unit might not be the right one and might require different wiring even though it fits the socket you have.

If the new one is wrong it might even blow a fuse or cause a short.
I did that by changing a horn relay once. It shorted the horn switch wire in the steering wheel and smoke came out! It turned out the relay was wrong. All I did was plug the new relay in and Poof!
David

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help, but it isn't the relay. Found that the guage cluster, which gm in all their infinite insanity put on the same circuit, has a short SOMEWHERE. Haynes and the assembly manual both suck as diagrams, and would like to find a good one for a 76 model.

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