KevinW's comments are very right, do make sure they are adjusted right. What I do is tighten up the adjusters until the wheel locks, than back off for slight drag. You have to make a tool from a coat hanger to pull the adjuster lever away from the star wheel. Make sure you can do that before you tighten it up too much! That you can turn the star wheel both ways. The problem with the Russel bleeders is that they needed too much pressure (vacuum in this case) to activate. By the time the vacuum got that high it was trying to suck air from the bleeder valve connection and the bleeder valve threads, not to mention the wheel cylinder seals. I've see pictures of the Earl valve, looks like it has a spring, if the tension is not too tight it probably would not hurt. But I found those valve to be more of a problem than a solution. It is easy to make a one way valve for manual bleeding, just take a length of rubber tubing, block one end, cut a slit about half way through near that blocked end. Put it on the bleeder with the slit end in a can with brake fluid above the level of the slit. When you press the brakes with the bleeder open the fluid pushes past the slit, but when you return stroke the slit closes. Works better than the "one man bleeder" kits you can buy at the local car store, usually those need too much pressure if they work at all. For me, the ONLY way that worked was vacuum bleeding, if I tried "pump" bleeding after sucessful vacuum bleeding the pedal would get soft again! The KEY is too use lots of that teflon tape on the bleeder threads, otherwise it WILL suck air past and you will always see bubbles, though they are "fake", from the threads not the system. But I don't want to see ANY DARM BUBBLES! I'm not sure what year they did away with check valves in Camaro master cyclinders, your '68 may still have them. An economy move I guess, but it makes bleeding a LOT harder. I even went to far as to install an aftermarket check valve ("blue" for drum brakes), but it is not really needed once the system is working properly, so I took it back out. Didn't make a difference, as far as I can tell. The back brakes still don't work as hard as they should, it is that stupid "proportioning valve", but I don't think you have one, because you are 4-way drum. Best of luck with the car, and best of luck getting the brakes working right, as bad brakes can "break" your car.
now: '73 LT; '79 Z28
then: '67 coupe; '88 IROC; '95 Z28
[This message has been edited by ibjoe (edited 06-26-2001).]