350 stalls, needs help, new to chevy's - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 03, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Breckenridge, CO USA
Posts: 7
I just made the move over to chevy and I could really use some help. I just bought a 68 camaro, mostly a car fulol of expensive parts that were not put together correctly. I just finished rewiring the entire car after a meltdown of the entire system on the drive home from buying it. My question is this. I have a 350ci, bored .030 with flat tops and camel hump 2.02/1.60 heads, a weiand dual plane intake and an Edelbrock 600 or 650cfm carb. I just had a friend of mine who is better at tuning that I am mess with the motor, and he told me that I needed a new Holley 600cfm, because the Edelbrock sucked. He tuned to 16 degrees after(and told me that it should be at 10-12, but would only run at 16?) and that the Edelbrock was pulling vaccuum at idle when it wasn't suppossed to? Is this true, he is a mechanic and I am not so any help would be appreciated. My other question is that I am also running a muncie m-22 tranny with a 10 bolt 4.10posi rear. When I am driving the car, there are a few probelems. Mainly, I want to know if anyone else has experienced this. First gear is great, nothing can keep up, second gear is good, but not as powerful as it should be. Right when I shift into third, the car immedicately begins to bog down under acceleration. The engine rpms go up, but nothing happens and it almost seems like the engine is strughgling to go at all. I downshift to try and correct, and the motor continues to bog and force me to downshift until I stop and it stalls out. The problem is at the top of secong gear and all of third, it doesn't happen in first at all. Does anyone know what this could be? I have heard vapor lock, bad gearing, bad carb, crappy engine setup, etc.
thanks for any help!

1968 Camaro Coupe
Built 350ci w/muncie 4spd
MSD Ignition
4.10 posi rear
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 03, 07:50 PM
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I'm not familiar with your carb,(only know holleys) but I would check your fuel filter. You may be runing out of fuel at top end.

68/Z28,35O LT1
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 03, 02:53 AM
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lehi Utah USA
Posts: 11
As for the carb. The holley guy will cuss the eldelbrocks just like die hard eldelbrock guys will cuss the holleys. Both are good carbs.
As far as your tranny problem goes you said the motor continues to rev. It sounds like you my need to replace a clutch and maybe pressure plate.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 03, 03:49 AM
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Location: Westlake, OH 44145
Posts: 707
I second the fuel filter idea. then The timing sounds way too retarded 16*after!!!.
That sound fishy. get another opinion. I would guess the two are related

67 prostreet BB Camaro The Combat Rat
80 z28 Camaro 355ci
71 BB SS Chevelle (clone)
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 03, 12:28 PM
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Location: Park City, UT, USA
Posts: 52
You really need to work the engine problem out before you go changing clutches and stuff. You absolutely can't run that motor at 16 degrees retard. It ain't gonna work. I'd look at cam timing first. Take the time to pull the balancer and the timing cover off and check for the wrong bushing. You gotta start somewhere.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 03, 12:54 PM
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are you sure you mean 16^ AFTER tdc and not B4??

Get a timing light and see if the advance is working correctly. I seccond (or is it third) the fuel starvation issue, check fuel pressure and then filters (in line and in the carb) then fuel pump.

Good luck.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 03, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Breckenridge, CO USA
Posts: 7
Thanks to all for the help!
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 03, 09:29 PM
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Make sure the distributor wiring is correct and the dakine resistor wire is good after that fire... My personal opion on 16 after is it isn't even on the timing tab last I knew and if you are running nitros that heavy I could understand a melt down of the entire car. The intake had better be pulling vacume at idle or any other condition or gas wont be getting sucked in. I think your retarded timing is causing the majority of your higher rev problems at increased load of higher gears. A retarded timing has the gas being fired up after the cylinder is headed down. At higher rpms that late spark doesn't completely burn the gas right away and with it being late you loose lots of power thrust on the pistons. I think maybe you've already pumped way too much gas into the intake trying to make power with that retarded timing then going way behind the power curve in 3rd you start to flood out and fight the problem by pumping the gas. Is the mechanic offering to buy the car off you? Not sure of the carb model but the filter might be right where the fuel lines plug into to carb. Should be big fittings and there are like brass filters or something like that in there. The increase of fuel flow might be packing the crud down and starving things out. I'd believe that big time. BUT 16 DEGREES RETARDED IS WRONG. The M22 rock crusher might of been regeared but survivable no matter what the gearing. Try pushing on the butterfly valves down inside the carb throat to make sure they aren't shaky or loose. The increase of air flow might be throwing the butterflys out of it. Better yet check pictures of diagrams to make sure all the parts and springs are attached right. Like an elctronic choke being wired into your temp gauge.
Are you getting smoke out the exhaust when the problems start showing up? Also does you engine temp go high or low? Just act like nothing is going on and change the points and condensor in the distributor and get a new cap. Your condensor might be shot. But first make sure the timing light is on the first spark plug wire to your right when standing at the radiator and the timing reads at least 8+ on the side that has more numbers going higher.
Man that must of been a loosy drive home with the car.
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