355 running hot - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 02, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Gainesville, FL, USA
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I have a 350 slightly modified in a 1970 Camaro. I have a Griffen aluminum radiator, 165 high flow thermostat, edelbrock waterpump, and black magic electric fan and an MSD 6AL Ignition system. Running initial advance at 8 degrees with maximum advance around 38-40. Problem is, when running down the road, this thing stays cool. When idling, the car gets hot. Hot enough to put coolant in the catch can. Thought this might be either a cracked head or bad head gasket, but don't seem to be loosing coolant, don't have any bubbles in the radiator, and no excessive moisture out the exhaust. Have tried a larger crankshaft pulley to spin the H2O pump faster, doesn't make a difference. Have also tried a flex fan and no changes. Carb is adjusted correctly so don't think this is a lean condition at idle. Plugs look good, slightly brown. Don't know what else to try. Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 02, 02:15 PM
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Since you've checked everything I could think of, and your car only gets hot at idle, do you have a fan shroud? If not, that is probably the problem. You said you've tried a flex fan, what fan are you normally running, stock? Something else that may affect the cooling is the distance between your fan and the radiator.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 02, 03:44 PM
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how's the clutch on the fan? if the blades keep spinning after the thing is shut off, get a new one.

how bad does it boil over? it is normal for a little bit of coolant to go to the overflow- that is what it is for. gives the coolant someplace to expand and not get puked out.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 02, 05:17 AM
DjD
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If you didn't have so much total advance I'd recomend kicking the initial up to the 12-14 deg range. The shroud and fan placement within it is important to insure good air flow at idle. The 160 stat may not be giving the fluid in the system a chance to sit in the radiator long enough to make it effective at drawing heat when back in the block. Once it opens it's almost like not having a stat at all if the temp doesn't drop enough to close it. Try a 180 Mr Gasket (Robert Shaw) and see if that helps. Also make sure you have a good rad cap rated at about 15 psi.

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...Dennis
"The '69, the '96 & the club"
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 02, 05:41 AM
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Even with a new cap Have it pressure checked. Any shop can do it Its most likely free or cheap. I have seen new caps fail!!
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 02, 02:40 PM
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DJD has good advice, run full time vacuum advance which helps your engine cool at idle. 10 initial, 10 vacuum advance and mid 30s total.

The heat transfer hardware sounds good, I am not excited about the Black Magic fan or the flex fan you descibed.

I have tested the black magic fan and it does not put out the CFMs that they claim. It is a marginal product at best. It won't cool you in your location in the summer I can tell you.

My suggestion is to buy the best electric fan for your application which is the Spal 16" hipo fan. That should be enough for your application, but if you have air, and I suspect you do or want it, or just want more CFMs , buy the twin Spal 11" units. I will assure you that will do it.

If you are a junk yard guy...look for Lincoln Mark 8 or dual windstar fans. They are good airmovers as well.

If you don't have any space at the top of your radiator in the tank, the radiator will commonly push coolant out to a level where it becomes operational, this is especially true if you fill then run hot then push out coolant then fill again etc.

How much antifreeze are you running. Too much antifreeze will PREVENT GOOD COOLING AND IN FLORIDA, ALL YOU NEED IS ANTICORROSION PROTECTION.

More on cooling at my cooling tips forum at www.inccn.net/techforum.htm enjoy.

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STEVE JACK
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[This message has been edited by HOTRODSRJ (edited 03-15-2002).]
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