MY DOOR IS STUCK, and another problem... - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 00, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: SAN ANTONIO,TX
Posts: 2
Angry

okay, i was installing the passenger door on my 68 camaro. after i had semi-tightened the bolts, i tried to open and close the door to test the alignment, but it WOULDN'T OPEN!!! AT ALL!!! I can mess with the lock, latch, etc. all i want, but it's like the latch is welded to the post; I almost tore the post off trying to get the door off. I moved the door up, down, forward and back to no avail.
This has happened before on my truck, but the door was open and i couldn't close it: the latch went too far and wouldn't release, I had to hold the handle open and force the latch down with a screwdriver. unfortunately, that convenience is denied since I can't access that part of the car. besides, the problem may be different from what I think it is.
what do I do? how can I prevent this from happening again? HELP!!!

round 2:
I am trying to install the rear shackles, but can't get the bushings for the framerail in far enough to put the bolt on. i've gresed them, but I still can't force them in the hole, nor is there room for a hammer or anything like that.
how do I get the bushings and bolts in (the bolts are hard to force in, too)
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 00, 11:41 AM
 
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 67
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I experienced a similiar problem on my 69 and then bought new mechanisms.

Try loosening the retaining bolt (it's an allen wrench on a 69) in the door clasp post. You can reach it thru the door closing mechanism and it should allow you to open the door--it worked on my 69 anyway.

The other way, which isn't pretty, is to pry the mechanism out. Try to avoid that one.

Good luck and let me know if I can provide more help.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 00, 06:47 PM
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Drake
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Racine WI
Posts: 203
Cool

For your bushing problem,you could try running a bolt through the bushings,with a large flat washer on each side,start a nut on the threads,then tighten.This should push the bushings in.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 00, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: SAN ANTONIO,TX
Posts: 2
Thumbs up

THANK YOU both, as of today 8/11 I have 1 shackle in and the other almost in... as for the door it is a "star" bit, which I can obtain from a friend of mine. I tested the other door (still unattached) and the clasp did the same thing, so I need 2 new clasps now. Glad I tested this one first o_O
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 00, 05:38 PM
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Location: North Texas
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I'm not sure if this is your problem but I had my door inexplicably lock and not be able to be opened even while pulling on the door lock knob. What I did was take the door panel off from the inside of the car--quite the pain in the arse. what I found inside the door was the little spring that works between the striker for the door button and another area of the mechanism was gone. If the mechanism doesn't return without the aid of the spring, the door absolutely will not open. You'll have to feel the moving parts to find the one that works the release. The spring install is tough and requires a pen light in the mouth and ability to work in small spaces without becoming really PO'd. I used a coil spring from Home Depot to replace the lost stock spring. also spray some lube in there to help loosen old parts.

Good luck!!
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 00, 06:29 AM
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Brian
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Fremont Ca. USA
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Wink

I read this post when it first came up and all I had to offer was sympathy! But the last post clicked in my head, I remember having a '68 Camaro in my body shop about 15 years ago that this happened to. As I remember, the door panel was already off which made it a lot easier, I went to the other (good) side and with the light (I don't remember if I used the "pin light in the mouth" trick ) but I could see what "wasn't working" in the door by what "was working" in the "good" door. I used a long thin screw driver to help the piece that relied on the spring and it opened. Now the funny part of the story is I went to the nearest "Camaro guru" and told him I needed this spring, he told me to take it from a door that was in the shop! I found a door, removed the latch, then removed the spring and left the cannibalized door on the floor just like he told me. He then charged me $1.00 for the spring. I'll never forget walking out of there wondering why he would ruin a nice door assy. for a $1.00 sale.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 00, 06:45 AM
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Brian
 
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Location: Fremont Ca. USA
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Lightbulb

By the way, when "checking alignment", leave the strikers off! Your doors should fit perfect without the strikers. Then you put the strikers in with them in the OUTER MOST position, that way when you first test the door, you are only working with the vertical fit. After you have the vertical "lines" right, now you can move the striker in till the door is closing the right amount. And remember, if you are using new door rubber you may have to leave the door out a little bit till the rubber gets cozy being smashed in the door then after a few days tighten it up a little. Also THIS is the biggest tip of the day!!!! get a ball of Strip Caulk (dum-dum) and put that ball into the latch where the stiker will be hitting, push the door (or hood, trunk, what ever) in slowly JUST TILL THE STIKER HITS THE BALL OF STRIP CAULK you now know where that striker will hit the latch and you won't be guessing. I learned this the hard way on a Bonnet (front hood) on a 1957 Porsche Speedster. I closed the thing to find that my latch was WAY over to one side, the striker (in this case a long pointed bolt that works like a fish hook) got hooked under the latch and I COULD NOT get it open! The car was just painted and the only thing I could do was cut a hole in the trunk floor (thank goodness there was no spare tire in the well) and stick a long screw driver up through the hole and unscrew the stiker (again, thank goodness I had the dang thing loose for adjustment). I then had to fix the hole in the floor and the car went on to win many awards!

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[This message has been edited by MARTINSR (edited 08-13-2000).]
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 00, 06:43 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 233
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Make sure the holes are totaly cleaned out fron rust. Lube up the holes. Pull out your bushings from the frig(that you put in yesterday) and pop them in. If you have to, put the outside one in first using 3/8" threaded rod ,washers and nuts. Then put in the inboard one, you should be able to pry off of the trunk pan with a bar to get that one in. Bob
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 00, 05:00 PM
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Brad
 
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Location: Summit, MS
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I just did this door thing on my 68 about 1 month ago. I ended up taking the door panel off, and then the rear qurter panel. I drilled a hole fron the inside of the door jamb . I could get a flash light through the opening. From there I could see the actual latch itself. It was at this point I beat the stew out of the latch mechanism that was around the striker plate. This allowed the door to come open with a little attitude adjustment.

I forgot this... I also reached in from the quarter panel and pulled out the plastic door jamb piece. From there I used a screwdriver and some explitives to remove 1 or 2 of the bolts (phillips head) that hold the latch mechanism to the door. I had to nuy a new latch anyway, so the detruction of the latch was not a big deal. I had to buy a new plastic jam piece, but that is a small price versus pulling the door off
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