RS Headlight Problem - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 03, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
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I have an 69 RS car with a fairly new system (5 years). It's been operating perfectly until recently. The doors open as soon as the car is started. If I pull the headlight switch (to turn lights on) I get an obvious hisssss at the switch where the two vacuum lines connect to the headlight switch.

My first thoughts was the switch was bad and got a new one from the original GM manufacturer. This did not fix the problem, still hisssss at the switch.

So something else is wrong. What would be the most likely problem? Should I be checking any of theses parts (Hose check Valve, Hose filter, Headlamp relay vacuum switch)?

One note if it helps. When I pull off the two vacuum hoses from the light switch, one hose does have a vacuum pull (suction).
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 03, 07:04 AM
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Mark
 
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Try swapping the hose connections on the switch. I think the vaccum source goes on the center position, and the line to the headlight goes on the outer position. The line to the vacuum relay on the vacuum tank is vented to atmosphere with the headlight switch in off or parking light position. If you have the two lines swapped then you will have a vacuum leak in the "off" and "parking light" positions on the switch, doors should still work in the headlight position though.

Also check to see if the cover with the two vacuum connections is on tight. It's held onto the body of the switch with 4 little metal tabs that are bent over the edges. If the cover is loose you'r get a vacuum leak there as well.

You may also want to check to see if your relay valve is operating. Over the years they suck alot of grit and dirt into the bottom of the valve. Grab a can of carb cleaner and spray it up into the bottom of the valve, and through each port, while moving the manual switch from open to close. You would be amazed at the amount of gunk that comes out of them.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 03, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Mark,

Thanks for the reply.

I'v already tried switching the lines but did not help.

My first thought was the switch was leaking at the cover with the two vacuum connectors thats why I got a new switch. It really does seem to be leaking there, but what are the chances of two switches, (one that is new), doing that? Anyway I will see if I can tighten them up any.

I was also thinking maybe there is a clog or something forcing the air to leak out of the switch at the above mentioned area. Thats why I was wondered if maybe it was the relay or the check valve or filter. First thing I will do when I get home is try and clean the relay like you suggest, hope that will do it. I will also pull of the filter and check valve and see if flushing them might help as well.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 03, 10:54 AM
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Got home to look at my Z22 hose diagram. The black hose is the one from the Vacuum source and it attaches to the nipple closest to the dash. The orange hose connects the switch to the relay valve and it goes on the nipple closest to the firewall.

You may be able to gently tap those bent over retainers down to tighten the cover up a little. Failing that a little form-a-gasket, or RTV around the outer perimeter of the cap may seal it up better. They are pretty fragile little covers, easily twisted, especially when trying to put on the hoses.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 03, 04:22 PM
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Good advice from Mark there, I also will be removing my RS switch this winter and glueing a 6 or 8" piece of each hose to the switch nipples then using a union at the end to complete the connection again so you can service stuff under the dash without pumping those hoses off their nipples and trying to reach back up under there all the time, scraping knuckles and swearing at it. The sealer is a great idea too. Ive got leaks that make mine work sometimes and other times not so thats next winters project but make it easy if you have the dash apart and can get at those ends to glue them down tight, maybe even miniture clamps too. Then complete the hoses with unions where you can reach them easier.
Just a thought, good luck, They are bears to deal with.
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Click..is Jim..former owner of a 69RS-LM1 350/255 - 700r
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 03, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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Well I sprayed the Vacuum relay with some carb cleaner, it kind of got sticky and did not seam to work as smooth. When I re-installed it there was no change at first, then after a minute or so the doors shut. I figured problem solved. However, now they won't open!!
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 03, 04:23 AM
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Work the valve open and closed with the manual operator on the top to loosen it up. The carb cleaner shouldn't hurt anything insdie the valve as is't just rubber seals in a plastic body. If it's not moving freely then you may have some gunk still stuck in it. I had all kinds of crap come out of mine but they work markedly better after all the gunk was removed. As the vacuum actuators start to leak, they start pulling air thru the relay valve, so anything flying around under the hood like oil, dirt, water, etc gets sucked into the bottom of the valve and closes down on the amount of air able to pass thru the valve.

Also look very carefully at your vacuum tubing where they pass over the various nipples on the valve, and the vacuum tank itself. These quite often split and start leaking. Once you get a leak the door work very slowly, or not at all.

My system is so tight now ( finally got a good set of actuators) that I can shut the car off and then turn off the lights, and the doors will still close.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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