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Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old May 29th, 03, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
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Rob
 
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my headlites go on when i step on the brakes, what's up? oh it's a 73 camaro.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old May 29th, 03, 04:25 AM
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gotta be a bad ground someplace -backfeeding through the headlights.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old May 29th, 03, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Rob
 
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i checked the ground by my headlites and taillites and they look ok.where else should i look?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old May 29th, 03, 01:17 PM
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You'll have to measure voltage drops accross grounds to know if it's good or not. Looks can be decieving. In fact you'll need a voltmeter to isolate the problem bad-ground or not. The alternative approach is parts swapping.

-dnult

Dave
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68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old May 29th, 03, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the reply,could you please be a little more explicite.how , and where do i measure my voltages and voltage drops? also what parts do you sugest i swap? again 'thanks for the reply"

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old May 30th, 03, 12:42 AM
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Check me if I'm wrong. First test to see if it does it in both high and low beam position and if it does is the light the same as whatever position the switch is in. That will at least tell you if it's a short on the inside portion of the switch or on the outbound to the lights.
The light always being low or high reguardless of the switch position is a short down range of the switch.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old May 30th, 03, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by roberttalsma:
thanks for the reply,could you please be a little more explicite.how , and where do i measure my voltages and voltage drops? also what parts do you sugest i swap? again 'thanks for the reply"
Just think about all the connections in the circuit. Here are the big ones. Battery post to cable clamp, clamp to cable, (hot and ground). Then you have B+ to fuse block, fuse block to switch, switch to lamp circuits, lamps to ground, and finally ground to negative terminal. The only place you should see more than 1volt drop is accross the lamps themselves. Otherwise you should only see a few 10ths of a volt. When measuring the ground circuits, check the voltage drops between firewall and frame, frame and fender, engine block and frame, etc.

As for part swapping, unless I've seen a specific problem before I won't recommend part swaps. Odds are you'll end up spending money and still have the same problem. With a schematic, a volt meter, and an understanding of the circuit you can figure out exactly what is wrong instead.

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old May 30th, 03, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Rob
 
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thank you all for the replies. i'm happy to report i have made some progress. i took out my instrumet gauge cluster and noticed a couple copper runs on the printed cuircuit loose and touching each other . i taped them down and apart . now my heal lites don't come on when i apply the breakes,now only the front parking lites and the brake lites come on when i brake. and my head lites seem to work fine.again thank a bunch.i'll get back to this latter, for now i'm glad i made some progress.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old May 30th, 03, 01:32 PM
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Angry

Thanks for the update Robert. Always good to hear what the fixes are. Good luck with the parking lights.

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old May 31st, 03, 01:55 AM
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First thing I think is the only reason the fix you did would work is the brake wire got into your light circuit. DUUUHHHH. hehehe anyway at least you know it got to your headlights and is gone. Since that general area took care of the headlights possibly due to your fix. This could get long. I'll leave stuff out.
Check if the brake lights work with the light that come on in the front disconnected.
Watch and see if the turn signal lights are coming on when you hit the brake.
Pray like heck the fix wasn't just getting lucky moving some wires that are bare down there when you moved the dash panel.
The quick fix if it starts smoking is shaking your hand around in the wires to disconnect the short.
Look for a brown wire that comes down with a yellow. Yellow is headlights and brown is parking.
You might have a short where the headlight, running lights, and brake system light come together and head thru the firewall.
I'd get some electrical cleaner and practice holding your breath. Get the non toxic spray. No chlorals or non crc I think. Practice holding your breath anyway and remember to blast some air out your nose before breathing back in.
After that practice try attacking the black triangular wire bus under the dash I think to the right of the fuse panel. All the wires come straight out towards the rear of the car. You can't miss it. It's right behind the brake pedal. Clean that good.
You gotta check to see on the other side below the brake booster if somebody did splicing.
Do you have a leak when it rain? That area gets water coming down the inside of the firewall and corrodes up.
Good luck and have fun most importantly
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old May 31st, 03, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Rob
 
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Angry

now we're hav'in fun. i just swaped out the printed circuit and lite switch , and added a ground to it and alakazam wala it's workin the way it should . i love it when a plan comes together. well that closes the chapter on thi repair . thank you all for the help and incouragement,i could never have done it without you , again THKS A WHOLE LOT !!!!!!!

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