88 ford mustang is eating oil pump shafts - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 00, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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we just finished rebuilding the motor and after putting 600 miles on it the oil pump seized. Today after many hours the new pump was installed and during the second "test" drive this pump seized. Any suggestions?????
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 00, 02:34 PM
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Luck,
Ford pumps, unlike GM ones, are very prone to siezing up from just the slightest amount of dirt etc. The way they are made and the very tight tolerances are very unforgiving of foreign material. Take a very good look in the seized pumps and I will bet you will find something "squished" between the gears. Hardened up valve stem seal material is the most common culprit on high mileage motors, but yours is fresh and should not have any dirt in it.
If it is not dirt, I really cannot think of anything else. We have built our share of Ford motors and never really have had an oil pump problem.
Hope this helps,

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 00, 04:54 PM
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Give up and buy a Chevy.......
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 00, 07:20 PM
 
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Does the pump have the high-zoot NASCAR 100 psi relief spring? If so, put the stock 60 psi spring back into it.

Ford pumps are also prone to have a leak at the pickup to pump junction, and they will attempt to pump, even show some pressure, but end up starving and breaking.

Also, there could be a problem with the distributor pisitioning in the block. Ford distributors sometimes sit in the block too deep, loading the pump drive shaft against the distributor body from the shaft stop, and the center oil pump gear. This is common when people over shim/tighten the distributor shaft stop and/or don't check if the pump shaft is binding.

Shims are available to lift the distributor a small distance, so the whole dist manishaft, driveshaft, oil pump gear doesn't do a hard stackup.

If you find the stackup problem exhists, you could carefully shorten the drive shaft, but just don't get it red hot. Best way to do it is to shim the distributor body up if you need to. Most of the time, if the distributor is staking things up, the bottom of the distributor drive gear is also ridint on the block face on the bottom of the distributor hole, and will need to have the distributor body lifted with the shimming method.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 00, 07:38 AM
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Two ways to make a Ford go fast:

1)Put a chevy motor in it.
2)Drop it out of an airplane.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 00, 06:03 PM
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You had to know we'd take some shots......
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 8th, 00, 10:32 AM
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If you have the small hex shaft driving the pump like most Fords do, make shure the distributor is not worn out in the bottom hex socket or the oil pump drive shaft will slip stopping the pump.

Higher oil pressure just makes it worse.
We have some old Ford gas and diesel tractors that use the same drive system and have had several failures.
David


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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 8th, 00, 02:42 PM
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Hey Just,

I think everyone has some good ideas,and any of these suggestions are the possible cause.

Take the first pump apart and see if the bottom plate is worn from the pump shaft length,if that is not it like Bill said the tolerence on the new pump may be the problem.

What may be the problem though is that the pump is tight enough that it is locking up before oil can get in between the pump body and the driven gear.Always take any oil pump apart clean it(even new ones) and oil every part.

As I have already said take the first pump apart to see what happened to it,then get the second pump out and see if the same thing caused this pump to fail also.

Larry
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