How do you deal with exhaust manifold studs - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 02, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Brian Cooper
 
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I am fighting with the manifolds on Angie's Camaro. Specifically I am fighting to remove the exhaust pipes from the bottom of them so I can pull the motor.

What are your tricks for removing the nuts without breaking every stud? I have tried penetrating oil, heat is not an option do to space constraints, and I don't want to break every one off.

If my only option is to break them all as I have the first one, how tough is it to install some brass studs? Are the manifolds tough to drill?

By the way, I now hate tranny fluid in a very special way...

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 02, 02:22 PM
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If they're rusted real bad, it may be impossible to get them off without breaking them. In the end, it may be easier to break and replace them anyway. To get the broken studs out, you'll need an acetylene torch to heat the cast iron around the stud until it glows red, and then use a vice grip to remove the stud. Stainless steel studs are available from Rick's and you can use brass nuts on them.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 02, 02:34 PM
 
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Try tapping around the stud with a hammer or other suitable object. This sometimes will losen the stud. If this dosen't work heat is the only other option I know of.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 02, 02:54 PM
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I dope em up with penetrating oil hours in advance of removal. I use an impact wrench at low pressure or with the adjustment turned down. Try to back them off, then tighten, then loosen, then tighten. Anytime you get some new thread exposed dope it up with oil again. The problem is that the rust and crap will gawl up in the threads if you don't work it back and forth and redope. The penetrating fluid will lubricate and wash away the crud as you go.

-dnult
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 02, 03:35 PM
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I repeatedly applied penetrant over several days... probably used half a bottle on those things.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 02, 03:45 PM
 
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ya i tried the hammer trick didnt work i had to end up having my buddies dad heat it up for me and yank em out.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 26th, 02, 04:30 PM
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Call me stupid, but here's what I did on my truck:
Two of the studs broke on the right side (flush on the flange), so I drilled them out, and used long Grade 8 bolts instead. I've got a few thousand miles on that setup with no leaks. Cost me $1.00 and 10 minutes.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 27th, 02, 12:28 AM
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As dnult and boodlefoof, and others suggested, penetrating oil and "rock" the nut back & forth to remove. Have patience.

For future removal, after replacing the stud(s), I use a stainless steel coupling nut to cover the exposed threads as if a regular nut were used. These coupling nuts can be purchased from www.McMaster-Carr.com.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 27th, 02, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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Brian Cooper
 
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Thanks guys. I broke the first one off by hand with a standard 3/8 drive ratchet, so I don't have much hope for the rest. I will try the impact, and I soaked them again after I gave up yesterday.

Wish me luck.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 27th, 02, 02:40 AM
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Has anyone tried PB Blaster? I hear that stuff is real good but I haven't tried it on anything yet. When I take my rear springs off soon I'm going to soak em down good once a day for about 3 days in advance.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 27th, 02, 04:00 AM
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I would personally not worry about it and break them, then worry about them once you get it out of the car. PB will help, but if they are really bad, nothing will help. I usually take the manifolds to a local machine shop to have the broken studs extracted, they charge like $5-10 and I don't have to get out the torches, weld a nut on, etc. To help with this problem I used stainless steel nuts when I had my exhuast put on. I double nutted them to make sure they didn't back off. I have had brass back off before.

Anyways, here is a link to McMaster-Carr and a section on studs. I don't have an exhaust manifold stud with me to measure, but I know the thread count is 3/8"x16. I would imagine that stainless steel studs and stainless steel nuts would be the ticket. - http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ps...=desc=Threaded

Good luck

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 27th, 02, 04:04 AM
 
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I took the same route as ElCamino. The machine shop redid the studs for $25 labor
plus the studs ($6?).
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 27th, 02, 04:53 AM
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PB Blaster is great stuff give it a chance to soak in though!.
also a 3/8 impact on low has helped me in the past,the steady inpacting bump it out very slowly .

or you could bustem and put some nice headers back on
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 27th, 02, 05:05 AM
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I would try to cut them off with a cut off
wheel, instead of breaking them off. Less chance of breaking them off flush with the manifolds. Then when you get the engine out, you can use heat and some vice grips to remove the studs.

[This message has been edited by 69RS (edited 09-27-2002).]
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old Sep 27th, 02, 08:44 AM
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How about a nut splitter? They're cheap and they'll come in handy for years to come!

I've split nuts that were rust-welded on. But of course sometimes the bolt or stud is so rusted that it isn't worth saving even after you get the nut off.
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