ITS DRIVING ME NUTS! - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 04, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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robert
 
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when i start my engine , it starts perfect.

but when im driving for like 8-10 minutes,it starts to stall.

it looks like its going to rich, using the mechanical choke doesnt help at all.

its idling at 300rpm or so(or stalling)
, but when it does that for like 2-3 minutes it suddenly rises to 900rpm and runs fine then!

bought a new carburator, but the same problem stays! (edelbrock 600cfm vac.sec. mech.choke)

HELP!

Z28 1984
'77 355ci/COMP cam 218/224 .464/.470 114 LSA
rollerrockers1.5/9.72 forged pistons
ported '66 461 heads 1.94,1.5/Flowtech shorty headers
edelbrock 600/performer rpm intake
th350/shiftkit/hughes2500stall
4th gen 3.23 10 bolt POSI.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 04, 05:30 AM
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Eric
 
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What does your timing curve look like? A little more base timing might help. My engine likes the base timing advance at 14-16* and total timing advance set to 34*. You could test by adding an extra 2 or 3 degrees and see if it helps before you waste time and money recurving the distributor.

A vacuum leak (broken vac hose, etc) might cause the problem too.

Or a basic tune-up -- fresh plugs, cap, rotor, wires, points and condenser.

E85 racer and E85 carb builder

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68 Camaro, E85 powered 427" small block. 9.96 @ 133 MPH, 1.319 sixty foot on motor. 5.92 eighth @ 116 with a 1.42 sixty breaking beams with back tire on the bottle
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 04, 02:02 PM
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Good point about timing. Are you running a vacuum advance? That will help also.

Could your float needles be leaking and or pump putting out too much pressure causing a flood condition when its warm even though the choke is off?

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 04, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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robert
 
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dont think so, after all, when its warm, it runs and idles perfect!

Z28 1984
'77 355ci/COMP cam 218/224 .464/.470 114 LSA
rollerrockers1.5/9.72 forged pistons
ported '66 461 heads 1.94,1.5/Flowtech shorty headers
edelbrock 600/performer rpm intake
th350/shiftkit/hughes2500stall
4th gen 3.23 10 bolt POSI.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 04, 06:49 PM
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I guess I misunderstood. I thought you were saying that it cold starts fine and then starts loading up after 8 to 10 minutes. So I presumed it ran crappy when warm.

Some of this may be attributed to a mechanical choke. During warm up you have to gradually open them by making three or four adjustments. Does the mechanical choke setup have a fast idle cam. I've got one it a box but can't recall how it is put together. Perhaps the fast idle mechanism is hanging up.

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 04, 07:10 PM
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Zach
 
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my car has some similar symptoms. but it only does it occasionally and its always during warmup while the choke is engaged. choke is on and its running around 2k rpm, then it just drops suddenly and starts running like it wants to die, then pops up again maybe 30 seconds later. i've left it alone since it only does it during warmup sometimes and runs fine otherwise. i thought maybe there could be some junk in the carb causing it, but the fast idle mechanism hanging up could be a possibility too. my carb is about 4 or 5 years old too though. 600 edelbrock with electric choke, #1406.

69 Camaro - LeMans blue w/ black vinyl top - 350/TH350
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 04, 02:43 AM
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Eric
 
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Usually when a car runs bad cold and fine when warm, its because the A/F mixture is too lean.

Might be a choke issue like dnult said or maybe a vac leak, ignition, etc like I mentioned before.

E85 racer and E85 carb builder

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68 Camaro, E85 powered 427" small block. 9.96 @ 133 MPH, 1.319 sixty foot on motor. 5.92 eighth @ 116 with a 1.42 sixty breaking beams with back tire on the bottle
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 29th, 04, 02:55 AM
 
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if its your timing it would start horrible and end horrible, always having to give it gas to stay on, put put out of tail pipe or carb ect..

do you have an electric fuel pump down around the outside of the fuel tank? check to make sure you are getting the proper gas, to do this at the carb disconnect the line and nut holding the line to the card, check for dirt ect while the line is disconnected, hold a folgers cofee can with the disconnected hose pointing into the can to catch gas, then simply turn the car over a couple of times not on just turn it, check to see if there is a good flow of gas going to the card, if there is then you have a problem at the carb and engine, if there isnt then work your way back to free up the restriction, i ask the question about the electric optional pump down by the tank, because usually you know if you have one, it hmms pusing gas to the front when you first strat the car, as it builds pressure it will shut off, sometimes when they go bad they stop sending the proper amount of fuel causing the car to run very sluggish and of course stalling all the time because the car isnt getting the proper gas to stay on unless you keep trying to pump the gas peddle..

if your hoses and everything look good, and you dont have a electric fuel pump and you are geetting gas, with no put put at tail pipe or anything then i would adjust the carb, the only botthering me about timing and the carb is the fact that it starts out graet like you said then after 10 minutes it gets crazy, if it were timing it would do it right away, it wont wait 10 minutes to do it, because everything would be effected like spark and stuff, i think you have a fuel problem, maybe a restriction somewhere, or at the card, mixture/ choke opening wrong, take a flat nose and close the choke, and see what it does after running for those miutes if it runs good while close but is horrble once opened fully then the prob is at the carb.. what ever it is it sounds like a fuel issue,,, good luck keep us posted on the outcome...
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 29th, 04, 08:15 AM
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William
 
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Some carbs need an insulating mounting gasket. With a standard gasket the car will run fine cold but as the engine warms the fuel in the carb boils.

William

CRG
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 29th, 04, 02:00 PM
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Buddy up the street had a simular problem, kind of surged during idle and would stumble and die... Brand new/rebuilt 383. I looked and found his vacuum to the distributer unhooked for some reason... runs fine now.... now time to tune the carb.I hate Edelbrocks carb.s too. LOL

68 Camaro~LSx ~all motor
1.54 60'--6.95 @ 98.45 660'--10.96 @ 121.53
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 04, 03:43 AM
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Kyle
 
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I think his problem lies in the choke i have seen this many times and it is almost always is the choke btw why do you hate eldebrock?? I lean towards them a bit more than the holleys.. holley is sooo tempermental to air pressure and temperatures

1969 Z/28 CLONE 350
4 SPD MUNCIE,
4 WHEEL DISK BRAKES,
4:11 POSI
BLUE W/WHITE STRIPES


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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 04, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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robert
 
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i dont hate edelbrocks...

Z28 1984
'77 355ci/COMP cam 218/224 .464/.470 114 LSA
rollerrockers1.5/9.72 forged pistons
ported '66 461 heads 1.94,1.5/Flowtech shorty headers
edelbrock 600/performer rpm intake
th350/shiftkit/hughes2500stall
4th gen 3.23 10 bolt POSI.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 9th, 04, 06:03 AM
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Tim
 
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Check to see if your fuel line from the tank is near the exhaust and is getting hot.

Tim


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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 04, 08:00 PM
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David Pozzi
 
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try plugging your vacuum advance hose into a port that has full time vacuum, not ported vacuum, which shuts off at idle.
David

Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
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