Is this possible? - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 02, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada, man...
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Been having lots of problems with my 84 running hot and/or over heating... I changed the rad(4 core tow truck rad, brand new!), tried a variety of fluid per water ratios, tried different fans, tested the temp gage, I even created a custom made fan shrowd with fiberglass..! okayed oil and trany fluid levels, everything I could think of... And still it runs too hot. Could it be possible that the trany in some way is causing the overheat? The car came with a 305, that I replaced with a 350 last summer.

Symptoms; wether during driving highway or stop and go city stuff, after 30 minutes and more you can feel the car not running well, the gage moves up, and slowly enmters the red zone.. Soon after there's a deep, but none specific knocking or thumping from the engine. Can't find the location of the knock, but you feel it all over. (strange) Also, if you turn the car off and try starting it again, the starter bogs, I heard this is normal if the engine is running at not-so-normal temperatures.
I would asume, if I left it, it would overheat completly...

This is my summer car and is parked right now for some body work and paint, it would be nice to tackle the heating problem now or before the summer comes. But by no means am I in a hurry...

What do you think?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 02, 08:07 AM
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You didn't remove the spoiler (black plastic piece) did you? I've heard that can cause overheating.

What fans have you tried? The best one I have ever used is the 6 blade H.D. fan with a new temp controlled fan clutch (not the spring loaded kind.) They are quiter than flex fans, and cool much better.

You didn't mention the thermostat. Did you test or replace it?

How close is your fan to the radiator?

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68 Coupe, 350 4-speed
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[This message has been edited by Spames (edited 01-17-2002).]
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 02, 08:42 AM
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sounds more like you have a restriction in the coolant system. With the car running can you look in the radiator and see the fluid moving through when the thermostat opens? I am just wondering if it is possible for the impeller to have come loose in the water pump. Either that or your thermostat isn't working or is in upside down --been there, done that, got the tee shirt!!!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 02, 02:05 PM
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Well..
A few things come to mind..
The thermostat is a possibility as someone else mentioned..
Does this car have a computer??? If so, get the error codes..they might indicate lean mixture, possibly from O2 sensor screwing up..
Regards
Chris
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 02, 04:25 PM
 
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If you installed a new water pump when changing engines check to see if they gave you a reverse flow . ( they look the same)
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 02, 02:26 AM
 
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Even though you may not have intentionally removed the radiator air spoiler underneath the car I would check anyway if you already have not....these things have been know to break off...I had an 84 camaro...it had a broken off spoiler and it exhibited many of the same symptoms.....good luck.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 02, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada, man...
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Hey! thanks for the replies,

-Yeah I replaced the thermostat, I had too, the overheated warped the last thermo-housing and popped the hose.. And its in there right.
-The spoiler is still in place
-I used borrowed fans from other chevy's and even rigged an electric fan to the rad during testing, it helped but not enough.
-There's no computer in the car.
-And we checked for coolant flow, the stat opens up when it reaches its tempurature, flows good and smooth...
I have not checked the Reverse flow idea though.. that sounds very promissing, that would explain alot!

Thanks guys
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 02, 10:22 AM
 
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If it's not the pump then you may want to check these things out. Where did this 350 come from? Was it rebuilt? If so, do you know if it was boiled out? I have personally seen bad head gaskets the maker neglected to put coolant openings in. Also an old block just thrown in can get clogged from rust and/or that stop leak garbage some people use instead of actually fixing the problem. Lastly, don't keep driving it until it start knocking, unless you were planning on rebuilding the engine anyway.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 02, 10:21 PM
Z282NV
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HOW YOUR IGNITION TIMING? INACCURATE IGNITION TIMING MAY CAUSE HIGH TEMPERATURES. I HAVE ALSO SEEN A LOT OF SLIPPED OUTER RING OF HARMONIC BALANCERS. LET ME GUESS YOUR ENGINE IS ALL STOCK AND YOU HAVE SET YOUR TIMING TO SPECS. IT MAY LOOK LIKE IT IS SET WITH THE TIMING LIGHT BUT IF THE OUTER RING ON THE BALANCER SLIPPED, ACTUAL TIMING IS OFF. I HAVE SEEN THE TIMING MARK SET TO TOP DEAD CENTER OFF AS MUCH AS 15 DEGREES.
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 02, 10:37 PM
Z282NV
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ALSO, A SOME 305 AND 350 TIMING COVERS AND BALANCERS MUST BE MATCHED. SOME TIMING COVERS HAVE THE TIMING TAB POSITIONED AT THE 12 O'CLOCK POSITION AND SOME AT THE 2 O'CLOCK
POSTION ( LOOKING DIRECTLY AT THE TIMING COVER ). ONE WAY TO CHECK IS IF YOU REMOVE THE CRANK PULLEY, LOOK FOR THE KEYWAY IN THE CENTER. THE KEYWAY WILL BE IN THE 2 O'CLOCK POSITION AND THATS PRETTY MUCH TOP DEAD CENTER. YOUR TIMING MARK SHOULD BE ON TOP DEAD CENTER. MIX-MATCHING A 12 O'CLOCK TIMING COVER WITH A 2 O'CLOCK DAMPER OR VICE-VERSA WILL CAUSE INACCURATE IGNITION TIMING AND MAY CAUSE ERRATIC TEMPERATURES. THE MOTOR MAY FEEL FINE ( NO LOSS IN POWER OR ENGINE "PING") AND YOU MAY NEVER KNOW AND THE TIMING COULD BE OFF. GOOD LUCK !!
post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 02, 01:32 AM
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Some very good points here on possible overheating issues.

Timing can be a real big problem if you don't have enough advance and you mentioned that you didn't have a computer? If not, do you have a carb on that engine? If so, it's the culprit. Overheating at cruising speed is 95% caused by an overly lean condition and that would mean the carb is not set up properly. Richen the mixtures for idle and primary jetting. Read the plugs, they should be almost a light carmel brown.....not white.

Go to www.inccn.net/techforum.htm where my tech article is on cooling.

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STEVE JACK
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 02, 08:31 AM
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when you changed the engine, did you change the distributor and carb? if not, you have no mechanical advance or vacuum advance, and the carb is gonna run real lean fo 2 reasons- it is for a 305, and the primary idle mixture and timing advance is controlled by the computer. between the retarded timing and the lean mixture, i would think you might have some problems.

------------------
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