code 34 again. I need a quick answer guys. Thanks - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 02, 05:30 AM Thread Starter
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I rebuilt my engine. I have an 85 TPI 305. Im in the process of working the bugs out now. Well I thought I was done with them. I just drove the car pretty hard, and when I stomp it the car hesitated. SOMETIMES. About a month ago I replaced my MAF, TPS, and O2. After my car hesitates the engine light comes on and I get a 34. Now my book says a 34 is my MAP. I dont have a MAP anywhere, but Auto Zone insists that I do. Well I can say is it is not in my car anywhere because I had it all apart and back together again and I didnt see one. Is the MAP the same diff as the MAF for FI or Carb? The car runs like an *** sandwich on and off. I dont belive I have any vacuum leaks either. I sprayed carb cleaner on everything. I am returning my MAF in about an hour is this what the ECM is reading or do I really have a MAP? Thanks all.

85iroc
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 02, 09:28 AM
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Hello again 85iroc,
The code 34 stands for manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor circuit (signal voltage low- vacuum high. Please note that this is found on the Vin "E" models with the 305 TBI.
Since you have the 305 TPI, your car will have the Mass Air Flow system installed. The code 34 for this is MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR CIRCUIT (GM/SEC LOW) 5.0L (VIN "F") & 5.7L (VIN 8) (PORT).A couple of things that you can check for are make sure the air duct is not damaged or loose, and there are two relays mounted on the drivers side firewall that should be checked. They are the MAF Sensor Power Relay and the MAF Sensor Burn-off Relay. A code 34 may be caused by an engine that exhibits a low, rough, unstable or incorrect idle problem. if this condition exists, disconnect the MAF sensor. If the idle improved with the sensor disconnected, replace it. A code 34 can also result from a dirty or misadjusted throttle body.
Also in response to your other post concerning the K&N filters, I have been using them for several years without any problems. By the way, did you ever get your speedometer straightened out?

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 02, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info Trickster. This will be kinda long I have a lot of info to TRY to explain so I can somewhat tell you whats been going on so far, its hard because this is my first experience with a rebuild. Here it goes. After the rebuild I ran codes and replaced MAF, MAT, and O2. Still ran kinda crapy. About a week later upon advice from you guys I found a few vacuum leaks. After that ran really good, but I parked it for a few weeks due to not having seats or registration yet. Well now I have both took it for a very hard ride and all I could say was WOW. It ran fantastic. On the way home it was hesitating real bad with a check engine light. If I stomped on it on the way home it would feel like someone turned the fuel valve off then back on again, or just turned off the current. But it would never stall. So today I ran codes again since my MAF was still covered I got a new one because I had a 34 again. I was also told by GM to replace my coil which I did since it was only a few bucks. Ran it again kinda hard ran pretty good but not great. Check engine came back on came up with a 24 vehicle speed sensor and a 42 electronic spark. This car is freakin killin me. I knew I should have bought the 69 instead. Quick engine data, im 30 over with 194 valves and a bigger cam. Unfortunatly I dont knw the cam numbers but I told the machinst to stay computer friendly. I also have a hypertech, with all the probs I was having I was going to put it in to see if it helped, when I got into it I found it already had one. So now I cant even go back to stock. It seems like this all started when I put in high octane gas. Im still having speedometer probs, I think I tweaked something when I was in it. I just bought a new cluster on ebay for 10 bucks. Hope it works. Thanks all I hope this makes sense.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 02, 12:10 PM
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OK 85iroc,
I am going to scan some information from my service manuals and e-mail them to you. This information will cover the MAF codes (33 & 34), the VSS code (24), & the electronic spark code (42). I will also add some other information in with it. This information file will be rather large so it will take several e-mails to get it all to you. By the way, you can go back to stock with the eprom chip. All you have to do is order one from the dealership. When you rebuilt your engine, what was the temp value of the thermostat that you put back in it? The reason I ask this is because when I put a hypertech chip in my 1985 z28 with a 305 4 barrel, I had to lower my thermostat to a 165 degree. Also, did you reset your throttle valve cable (kick down) after you re-connected it?

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 02, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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I put a 180 in for the thermostat. I donít really know if it makes a difference because I have the fan hot wired to stay on. When I bought the car it ran hot all the way home, about 250 I think. It was right under the red zone. I put a new water pump on and I put Dex cool antifreeze in and flushed the radiator. Iím still running about 240. Also I donít have any idea when you say adjust the throttle valve kick down. Can you break it down a little farther? Thanks
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 02, 01:50 PM
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greetings 85iroc,
Yes, the thermostat would make a difference, check to see what the part number is on the hypertech chip. You can check to see if it is the right one for your car and what the requirements or restrictions are for it by going to www.hypertech.com. They will have all the models listed. As for the throttle valve cable, you should have three cables going to your throttle body. One is for the throttle, one is for the cruise control (if installed), and the third one is for the throttle valve cable (this cable is for automatics only). This cable tells the transmission what position the throttle is in
, so it will be in the proper gear. Not good to be sitting at a red light and the transmission thinks it is in high gear. To properly adjust it, there is a button on the side of it. Push this button in and pull the cable to the rear until it hits its stop, release the button. Next, take the throttle and push it to wide open. You will hear the throttle valve cable ratchet, release the throttle and there you have just adjusted the throttle valve cable.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 02, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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Good morning all,

Trickster,
I dont know if you sent the scans or not. If you did I never got them. You suggest changing my thermostat to 160? Is that going to help even though I have the fan wired hot? Also what about my timing, where should that be set to? Right now it is about 10 degrees before. Anything less it really dosent idle well. Like I said I drove it last night and it ran pretty good with really no hesitation, but it just didnt seem right. I changed the MAF and coil last night.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 02, 07:44 AM
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Hello 85iroc,

Tried sending the scans to you but your mailbox is too small.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 02, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Try [email protected]

Thanks
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 02, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Trickster,
Thanks for the scans, I got two of them. Ill let you know how it all goes.

Thanks for your time.

85iroc
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 02, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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Just wanted to let everyone who helped know that the car seems to be doing much better now. I replaced the MAF, coil and the VSS. Seems to of done the trick for now. But everyother day a new sensor goes out or something else presents itself. So till next time. Thanks alot for the help. Thanks for the scans Trickster.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 02, 03:13 PM
 
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Take a good look at your ground wires, make sure theyre connected. Also make sure theres a body ground from tthe battery to the fender.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 02, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Racer1220 Ill check them out today. I just started driving this car on a daily basis to work out the bugs. Everyday I find something new to work out. This is suppose to be fun. When I first started the car part of the wiring harness was resting on the manifold in the back of the passenger head. I burnt part way through the harness and the car shut off. Well I put shrink wrap on everything and nice new connectors and it was all good. Started right back up. However where I burnt through the harness I burnt the fusible link to the ignition circuit im guessing the ignition circuit. Anyway I replaced the fusible link with a 30 amp fuse connector. The problem is when I drive the car it is fine all day but when I turn on my rear defroster the fuse blows in about 10 seconds and is very hot. Do I have to put a fusible link back in or reroute the power source for the rear defrost? Or did I screw something else up?

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