Help- Vibration after car warms up - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 04, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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I'm completely stumped... the car drives great but after about 10 miles or so the car will start to vibrate. It feels sortof like it one of those grocery carts with that one wheel that shakes. It isn't at any certain speed. Matter of fact I can freely hit 70+ when the car is warming up comfortably. It's just later it is so bad I'm scared to go over 15-20. It does seem to feel worse as I'm braking to stop the car. Anyone have a similar situation before?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 04, 05:59 PM
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Would you have happened to install a Pertronix Ignitor (or equivalent) in your distributor and just happen to wrap the two wires around the shaft before going down through the grommet on the metal plate inside the distributor? If so, you need to take the distributor apart and route the wires directly from the module through the grommet. Also, if this turns out to be the case, you probably have worn through the insulation and can see bare wire. You'll need to put some liquid electrical tape on the exposed area and cover with electrical tape.

Um, this happened to a friend of mine...yeah, that's it.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 04, 07:14 PM
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1st) stop driving the car!!! if you are afraid to go 15-20 mph after ten minutes of driving then DO NOT GO 70 mph before ten minutes. picture that shopping cart wheel, then picture your cars wheel doing the same thing at 70 miles. STOP DRIVING IT!!!

2nd) check all your lug nuts.

3rd) what are the condition of your ball joints and tie rod ends. do a visual check on your control arm bushings to see if they aren't shot.

4th) jack up one front tire and shake the daylights out of it, up down, in out and back and forth. do the same for the other side.

5th) pull your dust caps and make sure or re-check your wheel bearings are adjusted properly.

something is loose and or broken. if you can't find it drive it, or tow it, very slowly and safely to a front end shop and have them find the problem. but 70 mph is not the time to discover what exactly is wrong with your car. you may not live long enough to get it fixed.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 04, 01:59 PM
 
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Could it brake-drag, slowly heating up a disk or drum??
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 04, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you all for your suggestions. This board is awesome!

No Pertronics ignition and I definately stopped going 70 once the problem arose. It's been sitting in my garage ever since. Well... a couple of runs just to figure out the conditions of it occuring but that is it. Now it's just sitting there waiting to be fixed.

I pulled the tires yesterday and checked everything and it looks like nothing is loose or worn. Actually I was pleasantly surprised at how good of shape everything appeared. I didn't check the bearings though. How should I check those?

I did notice with the wheels off that I can freely turn the passenger side rotor but the drivers side seems to have more drag on the disc so I have to struggle to hand turn it. Could that drag heating up the rotors really cause that much vibration? What could be causing that?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 04, 05:34 PM
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some drag between disc and rotor is normal. there is a residual check valve that keeps the line pressure up just a little so the calipers don't back off and make you have a lot of pedal travel before the pads clamp on the rotor. should be able to turn just the rotor with a couple of fingers, that's with the caliper and pads on as normal.

to adjust wheel bearings...

with the caliper removed (leave the brake line attached)remove the dust cover, pull the cotter pin going thru the spindle and remove nut, washer and outer bearing. if it has been awhile since you packed the front wheel bearings now would be an excellant time. both innners and outers.

assuming wheel bearings are packed and you're ready to go back together. install rotor, grease seal, and inner bearing assembly on spindle and then slide outer bearing onto spindle then washer and then nut. HAND tighten nut while spinning rotor until nut is HAND tight. back off one flat on nut and cotter pin thru spindle with new pin.

install dust cap, and rotor with pads. tighten securely. install tire and lug nuts and tighten securely. forgive the redundancy with the tighten securely, but people have been know to leave that very important step out and then go drive around.


hope you find out what this problem is. check tires for missing or slipped wheel weights too.

BELIEVE IN YOUR DREAMS
1969 SS X55 NOR added RS all NOS sheetmetal, ground up resto. 24 year project and dream. optioned out the wazoo. in one thousand pieces, and coming together finally.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 04, 05:59 PM
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Had the brakes been recently rebuilt or pads replaced? Made the mistake on an eclipse once of changeing the pads one side at a time. But had forgotten to remove the mc cap first before compressing the caliper pistons. With the increased size of the pad displacing the fluid. Pressure increased so bad that after completing the second side. The first side took great force to spin after completing the other side.

As for the vibration.. sounds like a stablizer shock failing.. Had that happen on an old 47 Willys.. made the front end hop and bounce about a foot off the ground one tire at a time. In that respect look towards the tie rod ends and ball joints.. Take a gander at your motor mounts while your down there.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 8th, 04, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
 
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Haven't had a chance to check the bearing but something else I've been wondering. Could it be related in any manner to my power steering? My lines and actually everything realated to the steering is oftly close to my headers.

I'll try to check the bearings this weekend and post back my results.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 04, 01:36 PM
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If the car engine has an increase in heat on the gauge then it might be foreign fluids in the brake fluid like absorbed water or trans fluid. When the engine compartment heats up getting the brake master and lines hotter the foreign fluid will expand applying brakes/drag. Then the engine will work harder translating into being able to see more heat on the gauge. Gives one heck of a vibration when the brakes are going bozo all heated up. Whatevers. Take care.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 21st, 04, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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I' almost positive now it is brake related. I bled all the brakes over the weekend and the pedal felt alot better but again after a little driving I got the shaking, however, now before I noticed that the brake pedal got stiffer and stiffer the more I drove. If I let it coold down the pedal feels normal again and then will stiffen up and actually if I throw the car into neutral the car will stop itself pretty quickly without me even applying the brakes.

I'm going to spin all the tires and then take a quick drive to heat it up just a little and then try to spin them all again to see if I can narrow down to which one is binding after it gets driven. I have a sinking feeling it is one of my front disc brakes. Unfortunately the previous owner installed those. Is there some way I can get what make/model they are from by a serial# or something?
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Jun 21st, 04, 01:23 PM
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How old are the brake flex hoses? They deteriorate from the inside out (tend to swell shut); in that condition they'll pass fluid under pressure from brake application, but act as a check valve and don't allow pressure to drop back fully when you take your foot off the pedal, so that brake drags, and the hotter it gets, the worse the drag becomes.

Flex hoses are dated - they should be replaced every ten years.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 04, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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So I'm wanting to swap out the drives side caliper now that I'm dealing with the brake hoses. Someone tappedd out the hole for the bleeder screw a long time ago and bleeding the brakes is hard. However, I can't figure out what these calipers are from. I know the guys at the autoparts store won't be of any help. I have the casting #'s and a picture in the tag team section ( here ) so hopefully someone may recognize them. Or do you think maybe calling GM they may know?
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 04, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Classic Industries has helped me compare them. They are 70-76 camaro calipers. I got a new LH one and it went in without a hitch. Now I should be able to properly bleed the brakes this weekend and see if all of this has gotten rid of the vibration.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 15th, 04, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
 
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Wow! That was long and drawn out but it seems like it's back to normal. Not sure if it was the lines though.

After replacing the lines and one of my calipers (the bleeder screw had been tapped and wouldn't bleed easily), I couldn't bleed the system as the MC wasn't creating any pressure. Tried to replace just the MC and same problem. Replaced the MC with a new booster and now everything is fine. Definately was a brake issue just not sure if it was the caliper, hose, MC, or booster replacement that fixed the problem.
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