RS DOOR WORK BACKWARDS? - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 00, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Help I turn on the lights the doors close, I turn them off they open, I have switched the hoses at the headlight switch inside the car? still no help

Thanks

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[This message has been edited by JC69RSZ28 (edited 07-13-2000).]

[This message has been edited by JC69RSZ28 (edited 07-17-2000).]
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 00, 03:52 PM
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Which hoses did you switch? The center position is for vacuum, the other two for the actuators. If they are working in reverse swapping the upper and lower lines should cure it.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 00, 03:59 PM
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The switch just block or allows vac to go to the rest of the system so reversing the hoses at that point won't help... It would be my guess that the 2 hoses on the drivers fender are backwards. 1 goes into a short Y into the vac can and the other plugs in where the plunger is that allows you to poen the doors...

I don't have time right now to look at mine but if you get stuck I give a look see for ya!

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 00, 05:58 PM
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DjD,

I think we're talking the same thing. The two lines from the actuators connect to the upper and lower connections on the switch, while the center is vacuum from the tank.

With the headlight switch off, the logic should be VAC-VACTANK-ATM. When on ATM-VAC-VAC. This effectively swithes which side of the actuator diphram is exposed to vacuum and atmosphere. If they are working backwards swapping the lines should cure it. If the tees are not correct one light will open and the other close, or not move at all.

By the way, if you have the original switch don't get rid of it. The aftermarket pieces leak vacuum at the bottom of the switch where atmosphere is allowed in. Another wonderfull aftermarket part.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 00, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Well that got me closer... I switched the upper and lower hose's on the override switch on the vac can, now I turn on the lights they come on doors stay closed, I push the override switch to OPEN and they open with headlights on, and stay open when I switch it back to NORMAL, then when I turn lights off they close.. I have ordered new hose kit, just to make sure there is no leaks, any ideas will be of great help

JC

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 00, 06:40 PM
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Sounds like you are pretty close. The small vacuum line next to the override is what controls the operation of the switch. It is connected to the headlight switch where a vacuum slide-switch controls the logic. The override lever performs the same function but mechanically. A low vacuum signal from this line may not properly actuate the switch, hence it works when you do it manually. I believe on '69s there is a filter on the firewall close to the wiper motor. You may want to check that. The hose kit should include one. You may also try running a vacuumm line from the manifold direcly to the switch and see if it actuates.

Also, these systems were only marginal when new. Given the years, and the low vacuum of a 302, they will likely be difficult to get working perfectly.

Good luck.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 00, 07:36 PM
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Sounds like things are wired/plumbed right and vac is the issue at this point! If something is still plugged in incorrectly the kit you ordered will have a diagram to follow! Mine are slow (you've heard that a watched pot never boils) but they always open and close. Sometimes I have to leave the motor running for a bit after turning the lights off if I want to see them close. They are always closed the next morning if I turn them off and shut her down though!

Carl your right about the filter and the after market stuff. The hoses (after spending all that money for the kit) even start to go away after a year or two. Some you can shorten as the ends crack... I have already replaces some of the yellow stripped ones on mine.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 13th, 00, 12:07 PM
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Just for grins and giggles....

Switch/swap the position 2 hoses on the headlight switch. See if that does anything.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 13th, 00, 12:43 PM
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Steve - I think that is what he did to begin with. Hey JC69RSZ28 What switch were you referencing in your first post"

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 13th, 00, 05:05 PM
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Yeah...but what if he did switch them and not switch it back. I am not sure if it will make a difference or not....

I just figured that one of the ports should vent to atmosphere when the lights are off...to bleed the vacuum off the relay...

Just thought it might be worth a try.....
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 13th, 00, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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When I first started looking into why they did not work they appear to work just the opposite of the way they should so I switch the lines on the headlight switch in the car. then I was told to change the upper and lower ones on the vac can override switch, and that helped, but YES I have not switched them back on the headlight switch inside the car... SHOULD I switch thenm back?

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 13th, 00, 09:04 PM
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My thoughts are that the switch on the dash is just a switch. It stops the flow or allows it... If you look at the over ride it looks like when you push it to open the lights it stops the flow, so I think the switch does the same when you turn on the lights...

It would only matter if the light switch had a valve that restricted flow in one direction... As Steve said it wouldn't hurt to try!

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 00, 04:53 AM
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Actually there is no vacuum at the overide switch on the line that comes from the dash switch until the dash switch is turned on. but there is constant vacuum to the canister and through the yellow hose. I know when I bought my hose kit the directions were backwards for the actuator hose connections and I was having the same problem, so I switch the hoses at the actuator and mine work great.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 00, 05:24 AM
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The over ride switch must be more than a plunger that plugs the line comming from the dash switch then... I have an old broken one I will try to take it apart and see what it does...

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 00, 05:59 PM
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DjD,

Yep, mine are begining to crack also. Wonderful aftermarket parts.

CA420 is right, there is vacuum applied to the actuators while the engine is running. However, the switch also must allow air (atmospheric) into the opposite side of the actuator. That's why there's a hole in the bottom of the switch, and it's also where the poo-poo aftermarket switches leak. If atm. was not available the actuator could not move.

Mine will not close on their own, but they will open. Too much cam. Oh darn
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