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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 30th, 04, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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hi i need help i have a67 with a 350 auto. i cant get it to start i changed the points with the right dwell the cap rotor wires coil and even the starter im at the end of my rope im thinking about selling can any one help me? oh i also changed the timing chain.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 30th, 04, 06:10 AM
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The first thing Iwould check would be the timing.It only needs to be off by a few degrees to prevent engine from firing.Also lf you replaced dist. make sure it isn't 180 degrees off.I'm ashamed to say Iwas guilty of this. racermike
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 30th, 04, 06:33 AM
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Make sure you reconnected wire in dist cap when you changed the points ... make sure wires to coil are connected ... if points are a little off, car will not start ... To rule out timing chain error, put old points back in car ... they should already be properly gapped ( I am assuming car was still statting with old points at the time you decided to change them )... you may need to use remote starter or have someone turn the key while you slowly rotate distributor to find a "startable" timing spot ... If you continue to have problems, it is time to go back to timing chain install and confirm that crank and cam were properly oriened ( dot to dot ) when you installed the chain.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 04, 03:17 AM Thread Starter
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i tried all of these things and nothing seems to work. i know its the most basic of ignitions but i cant seem to get it to run. no it sputtered and died pulling into my drive and wouldnt start again the chain slipped 1 tooth and was real loose so i changed it.everything is set is there like a fuseable link or some other kind of electrical controller? beside the ignition switch? thanks for all your help
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 04, 04:01 AM
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You need to make sure you are getting a spark. You cam do this by pulling a coil wire and placing it in close proximity to it's connecting point and look for a spark when the engine is cranked ... or you can pull a wire from a plug ... Be careful checking this...it can give you a good jolt! ... Also insure that you are getting fuel ... Fuel, air, and spark should at least give you a kick when you you attempt to crank it. Does it try to catch or does it just spin the engine when you attempt to crank it?
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 04, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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no it doesnt even try to start.i put a gear drive timing set in it and i know the timing is set. it is getting spark and i think that the wires are on right but the dist. been out so often but i still think thats it set right. i put the dist pointing at 1 when the 2 timing marks were lined up. i thought if the fuel pump was out and i put a little gas in the carb it should at least try right?it wasnt much not enough to flood it.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 04, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
i put the dist pointing at 1 when the 2 timing marks were lined up.
It could be the the engine is at #6 TDC rather than #1 TDC.

With #1 spark plug out, turn engine over by hand and with a finger in the plug hole, one will feel compression. Continue turning the engine clockwise, as viewed from the front till the marks line up.

You could even set in 10* BTDC of initial advance. Next, drop in dist to #1 cylinder allowing for oil pump/dist gear engagement.

Using an AM transistor pocket radio, set it next to the dist and with key on IGN, turn dist body until a snap is heard when rotating the body counterclockwise with rotor pointing to #1 plug wire.

This should get you in the ball park along with a charged battery.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 04, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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thanks i tried that everything is good there,before i changed the timing chain it had a couple of bad backfires do you think this could have blown out any part of my holley carb? i did what you said about the plug and the radio which was a great idea. thanksabout the backfires it sounded like it was going to blow out my exhaust.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 04, 12:00 PM
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The wires may not be connected to the cap correctly.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 04, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by kennys:
thanks i tried that everything is good there,before i changed the timing chain it had a couple of bad backfires do you think this could have blown out any part of my holley carb? i did what you said about the plug and the radio which was a great idea. thanksabout the backfires it sounded like it was going to blow out my exhaust.
That happened to me when I rebuilt the 327 in my old 68, and even though I thought I had marked it, the distributor was 180 degrees out of phase. (Of course I knew what the problem was after the 2ft flame shot out of my Q-jet.)

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 04, 02:50 AM
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If it has backfired through the intake, good chance the power valve(s) screwed into the metering block may now have broken diaphram(s). This condition would constantly leak fuel into the intake.

If its backfiring through the exhaust, retarded timing.

I'm sure you've set the points with a .019 inch gap, and since there is no fuel pump, you can fill the bowl through the vent tube at the air horn.

Use a timing light while cranking to start and set initial timing.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 3rd, 04, 12:31 PM
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