Dazed and Confused (again) over timing - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 01, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Joe
 
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I tried to check the timing on my 69 396. The initial timing was 34 degrees. Figuring that it would not start or run with that timing, I assumed the distributor may be one gear off. So I checked to see if the distributor was really at #1 position at #1 TDC of cylinder #1 by removing valve cover and finding the real TDC.
It is at TDC.
Does this seem possible? With that much advance I would think th eengine would be impossible to start and run. It would also detonate severely. I have niether problem.
What I do have is <12" vacuum at idle, lopey idle (assume from cam?) and very rich carb (Holley 750 DP). I am fouling plugs <500 miles. I do have leaking valve guides but it didn't foul like this before I "fixed" it.
Before I put things back together and experiment with timing, does anybody have advice for a confused soul?
I did remove and plug the vac advance. The centrifugal advance seemed to work OK as timing increased as I increased RPM.
It also runs pretty well when not fouled.
Thanks
Joe

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69 SS396 Clone, B&M TH400, 12 Bolt Posi, Blue w/White Z28 Stripes
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[This message has been edited by Joe G (edited 01-31-2001).]
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 1st, 01, 07:03 AM
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My suggestion is to yank the front pulley off and verrify thte truth of the timing mark on the ballancer.
with your finger, you sould be able to feet the keyway cut in the ballancer. A big block ballancer I just looked at has it's timing mark just about perfectly in line with the keyway's cut.
Ballancers can fail over time. Does the engine shake at all??

The distributor teeth thing is a non issue, a chevy will run regardless of where the dist. is fired in, as long as there's enough room to rotate the dist (without the vac. advance pod hitting something. and the firing order is correct.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 1st, 01, 09:32 AM
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I found with my 67 RS, the timing my Chilton's tells me to set is way off. I think because of the low octane gas out there, you need to advance the timing more. To set my timing I advance the distributer untill I hear a ping and then back it off untill the ping is gone. Before you start setting the timing make sure the firing order is right and vacuums are good. Don't set your carb to rich! Us a vacuum gauge and set the mixture to the highest vacuum no more. A super rich carb can foul plugs.

Good Luck
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 1st, 01, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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The balancer is lined up with the mark at TDC. The engine is smooth although I do get some RPM rlated vibration iside the car thatI'm trying to identify. Can't feel it on the engine; just inside? Strange.
I put a smaller carb on tonight (650 DP) that I borrowed from a friend to see if that helps. BUT! Can't drive it yet as I BROKE the firewall throttle support trying to adjust the throttle linkage. TOO MUCH MUSCLE!
So until I get that replaced, I'm stuck just looking at it.
Thanks for the help. I'll keep you posted.
Joe

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 2nd, 01, 04:30 PM
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Joe, are you playing with your toy again? Just can't keep your hands off it can you? I read in the body section where you were asking about pulling the front clip. What are you thinking joe. Your scaring me. Why are you thinking about doing that?

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 2nd, 01, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Steve! What's up? Yep, I'm playin'.
I had some problems with timing and plugs, so I changed everything. Should have left it alone. Fouled the plugs badly in 500 miles.
Bummer. Running way too rich. Borrowed a Holley 650 DP from a friend. Broke the throttle attachement plate; bummer again. Fixed that, put the old plugs back in and it runs like a bat outta hell.
Will have to see how the plugs fare. I know I've got leaking valse seals so maybe I'll do that next.
I was asking about the front clip removal to make plans down the road (still want to center the subframe)
Hope to see you soon.
Joe

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