pointless 68 - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 03, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Hello, I recently changed my distributer from points to pointless. I bought a pertronix electronic ignition that fits under the dist. cap after removal of the original ponits. I also purchased a coil to coinside with the new ignition. It was after this that I started to experience hard starting. I was told that the old chevys had an aluminum wire that went from the coil to the fuse block and that that wire needed to be changed to a copper wire. Is this correct?
Thanks for any help. Denis

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 03, 05:01 PM
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How about a review of the product???? Does it work as advertised? Did you go with the Ignitor or Ignitor II? Was it as easy to install as they claim? How would you rate the performance difference? (Outside of the starting issue).

Steve W
1968 Camaro Convertible
1966 GTO Convertible
1995 Harley Road King
"You can't always get what you waaant..."

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 03, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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I went with the Ignitor and the compatable flame thrower coil. It was easy to install. Performance wise, the car seems more reponsive.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 03, 04:36 PM
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The original points dist used a resistor wire that dropped voltage to 8 or 9 volts to the + side of the coil which kept the points from frying. With an electronic ignition you should feed it a full 12 volts. One way is to trace that wire back to the plug on the firewall and splice in a regular chunk of (#12?) copper wire.


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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 17th, 03, 11:36 AM
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BPOS hit that one on the nail! There should also be a wire that runs to the starter. When in cranking mode it sent 12 volts to the coil. No need to check for this being you have switched to electronic. Get rid of the resistor wire.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 03, 09:03 AM
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OK, this goes to something I asked months ago.
IF you had a tic toc tach (which runs off the coil, right?), and points ignition (with resistor wire) and you change to the new pointless ignition with the hot coil and 12 v to the coil...what will happen to the tach?
I've been told various things like "no problem" to "it will burn out the tach" to "run a resistor between the coil and tach".
Anyone know the REAL answer?

Steve W
1968 Camaro Convertible
1966 GTO Convertible
1995 Harley Road King
"You can't always get what you waaant..."

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 03, 09:34 AM
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Steve my factory tach has been connected to a factory points setup, a GM hei and now a Dave's small body hei abd the only change ever made was the removal/replacement of the resistance lead and the type of connectors on the ends of the wires... Have had no problems...

...Dennis

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 03, 10:04 AM
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Dennis,
Well thats good to know, but is there any major difference (besides the clock) between the 68 and 69 tach setup?
Oh, and mines not factory, it repro.

Steve W
1968 Camaro Convertible
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1995 Harley Road King
"You can't always get what you waaant..."

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 03, 05:46 AM
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Don't know but the clock will get it's 12v from a seperate source. I know several with '68's that have gone with HEI conversions like Pertonics (sp?) and removed/replaced the resistance wire and their tach's work fine... The tach goes on the neg lead of the coil...

[ 11-20-2003, 09:01 AM: Message edited by: DjD ]

...Dennis

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 03, 05:56 AM
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It states right on the directions of the pertronix ignitor wiring diagram, below the 3 different coil wiring images,

"Note: A resistor wire or ballast resistor may or may not be included in the original equipment. They are not to be changed in any way with the installation of an ignitor system".

When I used one, I ran it off the factory resistor wire with no problems, and the tic toc tach worked perfectly. I now use a chevy HEI and for that you do have to remove the resistor wire and run a full 12 volts. The tic toc tach lead plugs into the tach connection on the HEI and works fine. The best way to hook the wire up is to unbolt and separate the wiring bulkhead at the firewall, then locate the resistor wire, and take some needle nose pliers and pinch the spade connector, then push it out. That leaves the resistor wire intact if you ever need it later. Then at an electrical supply store or a car swap meet, buy a few spade connectors(to have extra), use some red 14 gauge wire and crimp the spade connector then insert it back into the location of the resistor wire, reconnect everything and clip it to the IGN terminal on the HEI cap. Works like a charm and is reversible if you want to go back to original.

68 RS/SS 350 Convertible<br /><a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/393973/compressedimage1.JPG" target="_blank">http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/393973/compressedimage1.JPG</a>
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 03, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by DTB:
It states right on the directions of the pertronix ignitor wiring diagram, below the 3 different coil wiring images,

"Note: A resistor wire or ballast resistor may or may not be included in the original equipment. They are not to be changed in any way with the installation of an ignitor system".

When I used one, I ran it off the factory resistor wire with no problems, and the tic toc tach worked perfectly. I now use a chevy HEI and for that you do have to remove the resistor wire and run a full 12 volts. The tic toc tach lead plugs into the tach connection on the HEI and works fine. The best way to hook the wire up is to unbolt and separate the wiring bulkhead at the firewall, then locate the resistor wire, and take some needle nose pliers and pinch the spade connector, then push it out. That leaves the resistor wire intact if you ever need it later. Then at an electrical supply store or a car swap meet, buy a few spade connectors(to have extra), use some red 14 gauge wire and crimp the spade connector then insert it back into the location of the resistor wire, reconnect everything and clip it to the IGN terminal on the HEI cap. Works like a charm and is reversible if you want to go back to original.
I stand corrected but know for a fact my friend ran his petronix with the restance wire in place and it ran ok but when he put a full 12v to it his performance increased a good deal. I know there have been several revisions of the petronix product. The one I speak of was one of the first on the market...

...Dennis

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 03, 06:20 AM
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I'm sure you're right Dennis. I was reading from my pertronix directions. I guess that would be pertronix I. The funny thing is, the first diagram shows no ballast resistor, and the second shows a ballast resistor. Maybe with their warning they are just trying to keep it simple, and not rewire too much.

68 RS/SS 350 Convertible<br /><a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/393973/compressedimage1.JPG" target="_blank">http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/393973/compressedimage1.JPG</a>
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 03, 04:47 PM
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Only things I can think to add is the spark plug wires if solid wire type don't like higher voltages than stock coils. Then the coil might not be getting enough juice due to low power during starter eating power cranking or the the grounds some place aren't good. Maybe the gap on the plugs aren't happy with the new ignition voltage and want a different gap.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 24th, 03, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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I ran my hard start problem past an old gm guy and he said to try a higher torque starter. He said that he had the same problem and the new higher torque starter solved it.

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 24th, 03, 03:46 PM
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Before going for a new starter, check your timing. If your timing is too far advanced, the engine will be harder to turn over. Also, in situations like this, make sure your battery is retaining a full charge and you are getting all 12+ volts at the starter ...
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