Release Bearing Squeal - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 24th, 02, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
 
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After driving my 69 Z28 about 70 miles at highway speed about 65 mph, the clutch release bearing will squeal when the clutch is pressed. It will stop when released. I put a new one in and it worked fine, until another short road trip. Now its doing it again. I am running a stock 302 engine, and 3.73 gear. Any ideas on the cause or better yet a cure. Thanks.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 24th, 02, 11:57 AM
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Don
 
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Is the clutch fork worn?



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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 24th, 02, 06:30 PM
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David Pozzi
 
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Did you lube the clutch fork pivot ball?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 02, 02:25 AM
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I just did a complete drivetrain upgrade and noticed my clutch fork was twisted, putting a rotational torque on the bearing when I put the clutch in. Assuming you're buying a quality throwout bearing, I would suspect a misalignment elsewhere. There aren't too many candidates - fork, pivot ball., z bar. Make sure the 'ears' on the fork are inside the bearing collar.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 02, 02:44 AM
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Are you sure it's the release bearing?? If it's a squealing noise it sounds more likely that it's the pilot bushing to me. I've seen a lot of Camaro's with squealing pilot bushing that come and go.

just my $.02
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 02, 03:47 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the responses. After replacing the first bearing I put about 200 miles on it locally. I figured the problem was solved. Both times it started after driving at high RPM. Maybe squealing isnt the right discription, it almost sounds like a ginding but only when the clutch is pressed,it even does it with the trans. out of gear, it stops after releasing the clutch about two inches. Will start working on it again soon,and will be sure to check all of the above. Thanks

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 02, 05:39 AM
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My 302/M-21/3.73 car made a similar squealing noise after sitting for a couple of months. It occurred intermittently during the first few miles of driving and went away after fully warmed up. I could stop the squealing by taking the car out of gear and releasing the clutch. It happened on 3 separate occasions in a row, but hasn't happened since.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 02, 05:52 AM
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Chris
 
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Is your bearing adjusted correctly?

Adjust your release bearing so that when you are not on the clutch pedal the bearing is making no contact with the pressure plate fingers. A 1/8 gap or less is all that is required.

If adjusted this way, and ASSUMING your bearing is installed correctly and the fork is not bent, the bearing will not wear out prematurely. A release bearing that is constantly spinning on the clutch fingers will wear out very quickly.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 02, 04:32 PM
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i had a similar problem in an old blazer i had. come to find out, the pressure plate was bad and not fully moving away from the linings of the clutch plate. when i dropped everything, i saw the bent fingers on it and immediately knew. another thing just off of the wall, check for a bad rear seal. if oil gets on that clutch plate, you will hear every scrape when the pressure plate lets go and presses against the clutch
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 02, 07:41 PM
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Check your clutch pedal, if there are two holes for the pushrod, connect to the upper one.
I'm wondering if your clutch fork is travelling to far, maybe the fork is scraping the pressure plate?
David

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67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 02, 02:53 AM
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I had all kinds of problems changing over to a standard trans on my 68, Could not get enough clutch pedal, landed up putting in a taller pivot ball, after this install the clutch works good, however when I press the pedal all the way to the floor, I get a growling grinding noise, and it is the fork depressed too far the fingers of the pressure plate are hitting the the clutch friction plate.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 02, 09:33 AM
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It's also very important to have the correct fork. I too had that problem until I replaced everything. One thing I noticed was that the fork I put in ( based on a post by CarlC with the correct part number ) was about 1" shorter with a bit more bend than what was on my car. It eliminated hitting the firewall ( which probably put the twist in mine ) and gave perfect engaement.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 02, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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Again, Thanks for all the good advice. Does anyone know the correct part number for the yolk? This time I will replace as many parts as I can. Thanks.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 02, 02:06 AM
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The GM part number is 3892632.

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Rick Dorion
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 02, 02:55 AM Thread Starter
 
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RickD, Thanks for the part number. I will get to work on this soon. Also getting up the parts to add power steering, so will be busy for awhile. Thanks to everyone for their input.

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