90 camaro turning off while running - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 03, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 128
Post

i don't know remember the other name of the website for these 3rd gen camaros. so if anyone knows it, please let me know. in the meantime, hopefully some of u may help me figure this one out. sorry if it's kinda long, but a briefing is nessesary. my sister drives the 90 camaro and at first the car turned off after long drives on the freeway after exitting the freeway. (not while driving on surface streets) the car itself turns off right after it has exited the freeway and makes a complete stop, it just died after the brake is applied. the car would turn on right away with no problem... i was told it was may be the gas pump. then a number of people suggested it was the spark plug cables, the control module and the rotor and or the ignition coil. so i changed that on sunday. today, was a nightmare, my sister while driving on the freeway, almost crashed, the hood flipped open and blinded her, then came crushing down and slammed shut. a couple of miles later, it just went dead and someone almost rearened her. someone was kind enough to push the car to the side of the freeway, where she waited about 20 minuted now for the car to turn on and had no problems on the surface streets...it has gradually been more time after it turns off to turn it back ona again. can it be some loose connection to the alternator or battery? any tips and or help is greatly appriciated and thanks for letting me vent here also.
teSSa is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 03, 04:19 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: conway s.c.
Posts: 168
Post

Greetings teSSa,

What size engine is she running? Is it a V6 or V8 TBI-TPI? Are you getting any codes on the check engine light

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]
trickster is offline  
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 03, 04:21 PM
Senior Tech
Don
 
ZZ_430's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,491
Post

You didn't mention which transmission it has, but those are the symptoms of a bad TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) solenoid.

Don ~ TC Member #15 ~
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Don't mess with Texas!
ZZ_430 is offline  
 
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 03, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 128
Post

oh, sorry, i got caught up in the description of the problem i forgot to give more info of the car. it is a 90 camaro, v6, think it's the 3.1 engine and it's an automatic tranny. dont know much about the tranny other than that. but if u guys need more info, let me know where to look.
teSSa is offline  
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 03, 10:21 AM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Westlake, OH 44145
Posts: 707
Post

ditto on the TCC solenoid.

67 Blown Alcohol Camaro "The Combat Rat" 8-71 and E-85/71 BB SS Chevelle "cheap street" (clone) 12.871 @ 107.59 w/1.915 60' and spinning /2002 35th anniv SS Z28 conv./74 454 El Camino .
Milan is offline  
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 03, 03:32 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: conway s.c.
Posts: 168
Post

[img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img] teSSa,

Double ditto on the tcc solenoid, I had a problem not long ago where mine wouldn't downshift when coming to a stop. Almost wore my brakes and legs out. Finally replaced the tcc solenoid, flushed all the old fluid out (looked like it had never been changed by original owner), replaced filter, and found the electrical female connector for the solenoid was broken also(easily replaced). also, get the new solenoid from the chevy dealer. The aftermarket models are not up to the task, also there are six different wiring configurations to the wiring harness for the different transmission model types and it helps to know which one you have. Model: YTM (type 4), Model: MCM & PRM (type 6), Model: FKM, FXM, YDM, YMM, YUM, YXM, & YZM (type 9), Model: FMM, MAM, MDM, MFM,MKM, MLM, MPM, MRM, MWM, MXM, MZM, THM, TJM, TKM, TLM, TUM, TXM, YNM, & YPM (type 18), Model: MHM, PAM, PBM, PCM, & TNM (type 19). Model: HBM & HDM (type 21). I have schematics of these for a 1989 model, should be the same for the 1990 models. If you want, I can e-mail them to you. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
trickster is offline  
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 03, 03:33 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 5,277
Post

If the Torque Converter Clutch is acting up it will stall the engine much like trying to stop a standard shift car without applying the clutch. Sounds like her's is just flat out dying...is this true? If you think the TCC might be at fault, I'd check the TCC brake switch. There is a switch on the brake peddle. It's purpose is to disengage the TCC when you apply the brake. If it's misadjusted or broken, it can call a stalling problem.

Throttle position sensors can cause engine stalling also. A bad idle air control motor is also a possibility. This car is a good candidate for connecting a diagnostic tool and taking a drive. You can monitor things like throttle position opening, TCC engagement, EGR position, and idle air motor position. However, I suspect you don't have access to a diagnostic tool which basically leaves you to swap parts. You might try the throttle position sensor since they are cheaper than some other parts you can replace. I'd also recommend getting a service manual or copying pages out of one at your local library. There are some basic troubleshooting steps you can do with a digital volt meter that might diagnose some of the circuits. Also, there is an adjustment procedure for the throttle position sensor that the manual should explain. Have you tried a wiggle test with the car idling to look for bad connections to sensors or bad grounds?

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
dnult is offline  
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 03, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 128
Post

ok folks, seems like that may be very well be the problem. i'll check what trnny i have to make things easier, but in the mean time, where is this tcc solenoid located at and how is it replaced ans what is the cost of this? also, where is that female swtich which may aslo be broken? and i'll check on the pedal brake switch also. the latest mr. know it all(a neighbor's friend) told me it was just the gas filter
teSSa is offline  
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 03, 05:00 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: conway s.c.
Posts: 168
Post

[img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img] teSSa,

The tcc solenoid switch is located in the transmission oil pan. To remove it calls for putting the car on ramps(preferable) or jack stands and removing the transmission oil pan (15 13mm bolts) and draining the fluid in a container (real messy). Remove the filter and the tcc solenoid is under it. Think there are two bolts holding it in place. The female connector I mentioned in my last post is on the l/h side of the transmission just aft of the transmission cable with a wire harness connected to it. To remove it, just disconnect the wire harness on the outside of the transmission case, then disconnect the tcc solenoid wire harness from it inside the case. Next, just use a phillips screwdriver and push it out from inside the case. Make note of how the old one was installed position wise before pushing it out. Installation is the reverse of removal, just push the new one in from outside the case. I had to replace mine because the plastic was old and brittle. When removing the case pan, loosen all the bolts about two turns. Next loosen the bolts on the sides about three turns each, now put a drip pan underneath it and start loosening the rear bolts about three turns each. If the pan doesn't come down a little in the rear, loosen the pan seal by tapping on the rear of the pan with a rubber mallet lightly. Once the pan has tilted down slightly, the fluid will start to drain out. After it has drained some, continue to loosen the bolts at the rear and sides until almost all the fluid has drained out. After the biggest part of the oil has drained out, it will be less messy to hold the pan up with one hand and remove the bolts. There will still be some fluid in the pan so try to bring it down straight or tillt it slightly to the rear. You will find a lot of gray looking gook in the pan, this is normal as long as there are no big pieces of metal in it. Just clean it out real good with a cleaning solvent and put the magnet back in its place. Hope this isn't too long or confusing.
Forgot to mention!! I have the service manuals for the 1989 models!!

Hope this helps!!

P.S. I hope your sister is really grateful to you when this is all done!!!!!!!!
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [img]graemlins/waving.gif[/img]

[ 02-19-2003, 08:15 PM: Message edited by: trickster ]
trickster is offline  
post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 03, 03:50 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 5,277
Post

I'm confused why folks think the TCC solenoid would be bad. They usually fail open. Has anyone acutally had a bad TCC solenoid cause a stalling problem? I've seen problems with brake switches, but not the solenoid itself. Then again, I can't claim to have witnessed every TCC problem there ever was.

The brake switch is located on the brake peddle lever in close proximity to the rear brake light switch. I'm sorry I can't be more clear since I am not familiar with your car. It's possible that the TCC cutout (brake switch) and brake light switch are in the same housing. Do the brake lights work ok?

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
dnult is offline  
post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 03, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 128
Post

[img]graemlins/clonk.gif[/img] ok folks, i decided, what the hell, and took a chance, so i spent the megga bucks($10)on the fuel filter and walla, it is done and running. now i have a little other problem, but this is another issue. thanks folks.
teSSa is offline  
post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 03, 12:24 AM
Super Moderator
Bess-68's rule
 
Everett#2390's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Va Beach VA
Posts: 32,183
Garage
Cool

Ahhh....the simple fixes are the most hardest to find....Wish they were all that easy. Give yourself 15 extra lab points....... [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

Give a man a rescued dog for the health of both their souls. May 2017 ROTM Winner - Thank you!
'
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CUBS - 2016 World Series Champions - Thank you, Joe Madden enjoy your next chapter.
Everett#2390 is online now  
post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 03, 08:25 AM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Westlake, OH 44145
Posts: 707
Post

Dnult the typical tcc failures that I have seen have caused the car to stall. of course those were a few years back. when the car would cool off it would be okay again. and they were very intermittant. happy to hear this fix was a simple one. I am skeptical that the malfunction may come back. Hope I'm wrong. [img]graemlins/waving.gif[/img]

67 Blown Alcohol Camaro "The Combat Rat" 8-71 and E-85/71 BB SS Chevelle "cheap street" (clone) 12.871 @ 107.59 w/1.915 60' and spinning /2002 35th anniv SS Z28 conv./74 454 El Camino .
Milan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Camaro Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.
NOTE we receive a lot of registrations with bad email addresses. IF you do not receive your confirmation email you will not be able to post. contact support and we will try and help.
Be sure you enter a valid email address and check your spam folder as well.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome