HEI DELIMA - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 01, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: PORTS ST. LUCIE FL. USA
Posts: 26
Question

please somebody help me ive taken a 78 motor+transmission and put it in my 67 i took the hei plug off the 78 harness and put the two wires that go on the positive side of the coil into that plug.I also put the puple and orange wire on the starter solenoid and now it'll run but only if you keep the starter engaged.please help me im lost and confused.
thank you ,
woody
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 01, 11:15 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Concord Cal. USA
Posts: 2,664
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None of your orgional wires should go to the HEI except a tac wire. You must use a full 12 volts to the batt side of the HEI. The orgional wire to the coil is a resistence wire and does not have a full 12 volts. If I remember correctly the purple wire is the bypass wire it is no longer needed. I don't know what the orange wire is someone with a wireing diagram needs to straighten that out

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 01, 11:29 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Robbinsdale, MN
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Actually, both the original positive connections need to be made - the 12v starting connection, and the connection with the resistance wire for normal running. BUT, you need to replace the resistance wire with a regular wire, so it transmits a full 12 volts when running. That's why it only runs with the starter engaged - as soon as you let it back to the run position your the wire from the start circuit loses power and the resistance wire only provides 8v, or so. Both of these wires (from the starter circuit and the ignition supply with the resistive wire replaced) need to go to the positive terminal on the HEI.

This will retain the original circuits, but give you the needed 12v at all times.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 01, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: PORTS ST. LUCIE FL. USA
Posts: 26
Talking

THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY'S AGAIN I'LL TRY THIS TOMMORROW!!!!YOIU GUY'S ALL ROCK.IM NOT THIS CAR IGNORANT I JUST PLAY THAT WAY ON THE INTERNET>HAHAHA THANKS AGAINILL REPLY SOON WITH MY NEXT PROBLEM

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 15th, 01, 12:40 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Concord Cal. USA
Posts: 2,664
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Sometimes you can get away with running an HEI through the ign switch but it can cause problems the switch was not designed to carry the current load that an HEI requires. I usually use a relay connected directly to the batt. and trigger it with the original coil + lead.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 01, 01:35 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Robbinsdale, MN
Posts: 193
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I defer to Oger's wisdom. Sounds like he's aware of circuit issues that I wasn't aware of (we'll see if my Mitsubishi wiring has problems with the current load the HEI puts on it! Yikes.)

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Huck
355 SBC powered '87 Chrysler Conquest TSi - 10.3:1, Vortec heads, XE 268H cam, HEI, eq. length shorties, Performer RPM intake, 750 Edelbrock (1407), T-5 and 3.54:1 posi indep. rear
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 01, 01:37 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Robbinsdale, MN
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Hey Oger -

Isn't Concord right out near Vacaville?? Or kind of between Vacaville and the Oakland area?? I've got cousins in that neck of the woods (or valley - rather).
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