Backup Lights and Headers - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 02, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Donnie
 
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On a '69 Z28 4speed with headers does anyone know of a way to get the backup lights to work other than turning the column by hand? Is there a way to modify the linkage rods to get them to work with headers? I have the linkage that attaches to the transmission and frame, but I can't use it with the headers. Is there a way to test the backup lights to see if they're getting current to them? Thanks, Donnie...
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 02, 11:49 AM
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Donnie, you can use an aftermarket hurst shifter with the Hurst backup light switch. If you have a factory Hurst shifter you can change out the back plate on the shifter for an aftermarket piece and mount the Hurst switch just as you would if you had an aftermarket setup. It works/looks totaly stock except from under the car and is totaly reversible. The wires come from the original switch at the base of the collumn. I think it is a light green wire maybe.

-Mark.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 02, 02:15 PM
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Donnie -

An inexpensive alternative is to pull the connector off the backup light switch at the base of the column and extend the two wires to a toggle switch under the dash.

------------------
JohnZ
CRG
'69 Z28 Fathom Green
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 02, 07:11 PM
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 25th, 02, 01:54 AM
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I used th eHurst switch on my 69z28.Follow th link that CarlC posted, with there adivce I got it working for around 22$. I was missinng the factory backup light switch on the column, so I don't know if you'll need to remove it. All I did was disconnect the wires from it, and hook them up to the hurst switch via a homemade harness that goes thru the fireawall. You may have to play with the adjustment on the switch. Once I got it working correctly it has worked perfectly ever since.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 25th, 02, 02:08 AM
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I have a 69 rs z with the crossram and hooker comp headers and have my lockout hooked up. With these headers its easy to do no switches no wires and look factory. Email me and I'll help you.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 25th, 02, 03:47 AM Thread Starter
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Dave69Z, I was going to email you the other day, but I noticed that you didn't have an email address on the site. What I was going to ask you was which wires on the column did you attach to the switch and what were their colors? Why did you have to run the wires through the firewall? Did you run the wires from the column down to underneath the car to the shifter?
GreenZ, I sent you an email. If you know of a way that I can use my bracket/rods and keep my Hedman headers that are new please let me know. I tested my lights last night and they do work if I turn my collar on the column.
Thanks for all the replies and help.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 25th, 02, 04:34 AM
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Green-Z...which Hooker Comps do you have that allow the factory linkage to work? What size and part number? I assume we're talking small block?
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 25th, 02, 08:40 AM
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sleepy these were hooker comp coated that I bought from Jegs. What i did was take the lock washer off the bellcrank and take it apart then cut one leg off and weld it on the other side, then slide it back on backwards so now the arms are closer to the frame away from the headers. This gives you atleast one inch moore room. When you moove the arms closer to the frame you will need to make the lower rod to the trans about one half inch longer (at leastin my car) I also had to grind the head of the front bolt about 1/8 to clear the arm. It looks factory and most people will never know its on backwards
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