Vibration at 65mph+ - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 02, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
 
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I have a 87 Camaro RS with a 2.8 engine, automatic transmission.
At speeds above 65mph, the ride degrades significantly with a sort of bounce vibration. I have balanced and re-balance tire, changed rims, balance drive shaft, changed u-joints, and even changed rear axels, but the problem persists. I've been told that the vibration problem is inherent to Camaros. Does anyone else have this problem, or can lead me to what to check next?

[This message has been edited by poolman49 (edited 02-13-2002).]
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 02, 04:47 AM
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I had a 91 RS and never had a single vibration at all. I also have a 86 model with a 2.8 and a 5 speed and it has also never had a vibration. Maybe your torque converter is messed up. I've had that happen before. Was that a mustang fanatic you were talking to about camaros vibrating??
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 02, 04:51 AM
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As you are cruising at 65 or so, lightly start applying the brakes while you are still on the gas. If the vibe goes away, it is probably be your torque convertor.

If this doesn't keep the converter out of lock up, you could also unplug the lock up for the convertor, just as a test.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 02, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
 
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I checked the torque convertor as you said, but there was no difference. I'm starting to think my tires are bad and the dealer won't acknowledge it. Thanks for the advise.


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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 02, 02:40 PM
 
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I had a brand new 85 Camaro Sport Coupe that would vibrate like crazy out on the highway and I couldn't figure it out....until I rolled the door windows up....no more vibration. I was looking under the car and all over before I accidently discovered this. Had the same problem on my 89.....go figure....Scott
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 02, 12:35 PM
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No such thing as "vibration problems inherent to Camaros". Sounds like what the OEM's call "smooth road shake", which occurs even when tires are perfectly balanced, but they have excessive radial runout, which you can see on the tire dealer's off-car spin balancer if you touch a pencil to the tread surface and see how much runout that surface has.

OEM wheels are marked when they're manufactured with a dot of wax or a sticker to identify their "low point" for runout, and OEM tires are marked when they're tested after molding with a wax dot or sticker to identify their "high point" for runout. When the tires are mounted at the assembly plant, the robotic-vision equipment automatically positions the tire on the rim before inflation and balancing so the two marks are aligned next to each other so the complete assembly has the absolute minimum total radial runout. The dealer prep guys remove these markers all day long from new cars - they're usually bright green or orange and stick out like a sore thumb.

Have the tire dealer check runout at the tread surface and rotate the tires on the rims 180 degrees and check runout again. Most aftermarket tires are nowhere near as concentric as OEM tires, and are not marked.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 02, 12:31 PM
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John, have you had better experiences with any particular brand over another?

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 02, 08:04 PM
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Go to a dealer/independent shop that has a GSP 9700 road force balancer made by Hunter Engineering Co. The machine will perform a computer simulated road test of the wheel/tire assembly to verify it is round when rolling down the road. This will take all of the guess work out of the equation, and will allow the shop to determine if you have a wheel/tire related problem or not. The machine also measures rim runout both radially and laterally, while the wheel and tire assembly is still mounted on the machine.
E-mail me if you need specific locations of this machine in Longview, Tx. [email protected]

[This message has been edited by BelgianSS (edited 02-17-2002).]
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 02, 02:04 PM
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Generally, if you stick with a well-known brand name (Goodyear, Michelin, etc.) your chances of having tighter manufacturing tolerances are better than with "Brand X" discount tires. There's a reason why "no-name" discount tires with fancy names on the sidewalls are cheap. Buy tires for how you plan to use your car, not by price and what the sidewalls look like.

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