Heat Problems - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 00, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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I am having a crappy time with my engine getting too hot. I have a 67 Camaro with a supercharged 327,(Weiand 4-71), and it runs constantly increasing up in the 200's. I have a brand new Griffin 2-core aluminum radiator with inch and a quarter rows. I thought this would solve the problem stepping up to this from a 2-core steel, iron, or whatever it was. I had a fan shroud, but ate it up when I broke a motor mount racing at Bandimeere. So recently I was running 215 degrees by the time I got to school, yes I drive it to school occasionally, and 230 easy when racing it. I talked to some people and they said running it without the fan shroud will cause your fan to not suck the air through the radiator, getting cool air, but just keep blowing the hot air off the engine back on the engine. I can totally understand this concept. So I went to a junkyard and after hours of looking found a perfect dimension shroud which is so long it reaches over the water pump, I hope this is good. By the way I have a 180 degree thermostat. Well the shroud made no difference at all and it is still hot as ever. I don't know if the blower causes it to run this hot, if the water pump is no good, if I need to put in a 160 thermostat, or if this temperature isn't that bad anyway. Well if anyone can give some advice, or know any tricks, please let me know. I am just a stupid kid. Thanks for any help. Sorry this is soooooo long.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 00, 02:13 PM
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The shroud IS important - ideal location for best performance is with the fan blades half inside the shroud, half outside. If it has a properly located shroud and decent fan, clutch, and water pump, and still runs hot, you need more radiator. Thermostat doesn't establish running temperature - just tries to maintain constant temperature, assuming adequate cooling capacity (radiator) is there.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 00, 04:52 PM
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try adding an electric fan in addition to the clutch fan. I had the problem with my 68 camaro and I added a 16 electric fan and the radiator hardly gets warm anymore. It's like 80 to 90 dollars at peps boys and it's easy to hook up. 2 wires and your done. good luck
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 00, 05:55 PM
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what kind of valve seporation do you have on your cam? blower motors run cooler at 108 deg
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 00, 01:27 AM
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You shouldn't need a larger radiator as the one you have is rated for over 500 hp. I also have a spal electric fan and Stewart water pump with no problems although no blower.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 00, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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I don't think I need a larger radiator also. I just spent nearly 250 on it and everyone I have asked says the aluminum radiator should be more than enought to keep my engine cool. I believe my water pump works fine because when it hits 180, it will dump and sit there for awhile, then it will rise to about 185, dump, to 182, and slowly increase. After maybe 10 minutes of stoplight driving it runs 215. You can also feel the upper hose and the fluid go through it. I don't think the electric fan should help, because when I sit my car at idle and put my hand in the shroud all the air blowing out is hot as hell. Should this be. The radiator also turns hot as hell. Will like a 90% water to fluid help. Right now it is like 60-40. Don't understand it
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 00, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
 
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RickD, what stage Stewart Water Pump do you have. 2 or 3. Also can a water pump make that much of a difference. Correct me if I am wrong, but all an aftermarket one will do is flow more water in a given time, or faster. My car isn't radical, I only have about 375 hp. You'd think the stock one, given it works properly would cool fine. How do I check to see if it is working properly? Also I have to fill up the gear oil in the blower about twice a month, I can't find a single leak. Is it just burning up, from heat?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 00, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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Alright, I have no clue what my valve seperation is or what that is at all. Does it have to do with how far the rockers are lifted for each turn of the lobe or.... I haven't the slightest idea. It has a supercharger so the cam is very moderate, like stock for all I know. I bought it with the same motor in now, just added a lot of new stuff. Also Devil's Lake, by blower motor do you mean the one for the heater. I didn't know the blower(supercharger) had a motor, just two turbines ran by the crank pulley.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 00, 05:47 PM
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your supercharger works on the same principal, it prusserizes the air in the cylnder's so that makes heat doesn't it? if you have a wide seperation it will hold the heat in longer and make the engine run hot at idle and wont cool down after you get back moving. also how long does it take to over heat at a idle from when it is cold? my brother run's a 468 with a 871 blower with 15% over drive and his takes about 20 min to get to 180 at a idle. but with his old cam that had a 112 seporation it took about 5min. thats with a 2"by 3" 3 core radiator.

[This message has been edited by DEVIL'S LAKE (edited 09-16-2000).]
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 00, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
 
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It takes about 15 minutes for it to reach 180 degrees from dead cold, leaving it at idle. I was talking to some people about a month ago for like 20 minutes and it went from about 180 to 230 in this time. It started bogging itself and sounding strange. I turned it off immediately. I still don't understand valve seperation. Can someone explain it to me like I'm a wee lad. Please!
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 00, 05:54 PM
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valve seporation is distance between the peak's on the cam. your's might be stock and that's to far apart for a supercharger(blower) they run the best for street at 108.you can figure this out with a cam degree indicator.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 21st, 00, 03:21 PM
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The aftermarket Stewart and Edelbrock water pumps do flow more water and faster, to a point. Usally your thermostat is the restritor. These pumps also do one other thing different and that is to flow equal amounts of water to each head. This is where the MAY help cooling. I did not see what year your car is, but I just went through the exact same thing. I have the Griifin radiator and it took a 4th gen electric fan setup to finally cool it.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 21st, 00, 05:15 PM
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Hey Johnny,
Is your carb lean, and what is your inital and total timing.These will cause heat.Also as some one has already said about the schroud the fan should be half in and half out of the schroud, this is very important.You should be able to see half of the fan at the edge of the shroud,if the fan is up inside the schroud it will NOT work.

If carb and timing is ok I agree that you should add electric fan to the present system.

Here is one other thing that don't make sense but here me through,I had a 280ZX w/ a small block and limited radiator space having simular problem.I went to a 195 thermostat and fixed the problem. Here is why yes it ran at 200 all time after that but never hotter as before,the orface size or hole through the thermostat when open in the 195 is smaller therefore slowing the water down giving it longer to cool as it went through the radiator.(that is why many types race cars use reduced crank pulley)

Good Luck
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