TroubleShooting Non-Working horn - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 17th, 03, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Ben
 
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Question

1969 Camaro- The Horn does not work. Relay does not click.

Step One- I took apart the steering wheel and inspected the stuff there- All looks good- wires are connected correctly.

Step Two- I took the horns off and cleaned off the paint & dirt from the grounding spots and cleaned the connections

Step Three- I replaced the Horn Relay

After all that, still no horn...
What should i look at next? The wiring in the engine bay all looks great, not hacked up or anything.

Is there anyway for my to test the system from the horn relay to make sure the horns beep- then trace the problem back to the steering wheel?

Any help is apreciated!!
Ben

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 17th, 03, 12:05 PM
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Dave
 
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Run a jumper wire from the + side of the :cheers:battery to the horn where the green wire is now connected, this will tell you if the horn works. [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 17th, 03, 12:08 PM
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screwdriver will work too, since the horn relay has a positive connection (from the battery) already, just disconnect the green connector and short from the power sitting there to what the green was hooked too. I found my horns did not work until I hooked up the ground from the front fender to the battery, so make sure its not a ground issue to your fender/radiator support!

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 17th, 03, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Ben
 
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OK- I'll try jumping + from the battery to the lead on the horns to see if they work...

Thanks! I'll let you know how it goes!

Ben R.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 17th, 03, 06:26 PM
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Sean
 
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also, if your horns work, make sure the ground connection at the rag joint is good still, you should read to ground at the horn button contact on the column with an ohm meter. this is your ground connection point of the circuit. my guess is there is another issue regardless of the horns condition, since you should hear something from the relay if its trying to work. good luck!

Sean

1968 rs with an old school 354" SB2.2 pump gas motor.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 24th, 03, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ben
 
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Still havn't had a chance to try out a direct wire from the battery to the horn, but did find out an interesting thing...

Its super cold in the morning when my girlfriend goes out to start the car- The horn WORKS for about 5 minutes until then it won't work anymore. She has reproduced this the last few days- Works ONLY 1st thing in the morning, but then won't work after a couple minutes.

Interesting huh?

Ben R.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 28th, 03, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Ben
 
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Ok... been out working on the car today... Horns work with a direct line from the battery- and they work when jumped at the relay...

So... ANy more ideas what to try? Must be something with the collumn wiring?

Thanks!
Ben

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 28th, 03, 11:51 AM
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Sean
 
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have you checked to see if the column/steering wheel is grounded yet?

Sean

1968 rs with an old school 354" SB2.2 pump gas motor.

Repetition does not transform a lie into a truth.

Franklin D. Roosevelt
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 28th, 03, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Ben
 
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Question

Quote:
Originally posted by 68rs406:
have you checked to see if the column/steering wheel is grounded yet?
How do I test that? I looked at the rag joint, but there was not kind of grounding straps or anything there, but my 70 elky doesn't have any either... so i'm confused.

Do i just put an OHM meter on the steel part of the steering wheel?
What am i looking for?

Thanks-
Ben

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 28th, 03, 03:57 PM
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Sean
 
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yep, just put an ohm meter on the steering wheel like where the horn button contacts (i guess it depends on the type of wheel though). or just go right to the shaft where it pokes through the wheel hub. and connect the other lead to a good known ground. it should show little resistance.
its tough to see the bond at the rag joint, at least it is on mine, but that was my problem. it is just a shot in the dark, but it's nice to trouble shoot it out before replacing parts. good luck with it.

Sean

1968 rs with an old school 354" SB2.2 pump gas motor.

Repetition does not transform a lie into a truth.

Franklin D. Roosevelt
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 28th, 03, 05:46 PM
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Ben
Have you gotten the relay to energize yet? You said the horns worked at the relay but is that through the relay by closing the relay?
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 28th, 03, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Ben
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by John_Muha:
Ben
Have you gotten the relay to energize yet? You said the horns worked at the relay but is that through the relay by closing the relay?
I took 12v from the relay and wired direct to the horn and it honked- I couldn't figure out which terminals to 'jump' the 12v to the horn wires at the relay itself though...
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 03, 09:40 AM
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OOPs forgot about you.
Like everyone keeps mentioning, the horn relay closes by a ground wire. One side of the horn relay coil always has 12 volts on it. The hot side of the relay coil is tied inside to the same terminal as the large red wires.
Ground the relay terminal that has the real small black or pink/black wire on it. Think it's terminal 4 and the small wire runs up the harness in the left fender. See if grounding that relay terminal closes the relay with a "click" or if the horn is hooked up, should sound the horn.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 03, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Ben
 
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Question

Ok- I Pulled the pink lead off Conn #4 and ran a ground line to that connector- When i would ground it- the relay would 'Buzz' Sounded like the ign key warning buzzer. It did not click- and the horns did not sound...

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 03, 05:43 AM
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That's the key minder wire. That wire is used to make the relay buzz when you leave the key in the ignition. Look for another small, about 20 gage, black wire that runs into the harness. Maybe on terminal 2. Try that one.
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