Been sitting for 11 years,now what? - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old May 14th, 02, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Jim
 
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Location: Central Minnesota
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Im looking at a 69 RS thats been sitting in a warehouse for 11 years, never run.
What might I expect in start up costs? Gaskets, seals, rusty fuel system,carb kit, etc., etc.
What kind of surprises have others run into when resurrecting a golden oldie? Is there a ball park to plan on spending, such as $500 or $1000 just to get things running again but not overhauled? Assuming I can change fluids but heavy work, valves etc will be shop done.
Thanks for any ideas and the chance to tell your story on how you did it.
click

------------------
69RS 350/255 LM1,TH350,Dover White,Blue Vinyl top
F&R spoilers,pdb,ps,am/fm,4.10 Posi.,A/C,
fold down rear seat.
My RS www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old May 14th, 02, 11:36 AM
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I bought a 67 that had been sitting for about 10 years. It was well taken care of, a survivor car that was part of a private collection, but I wanted a driver. This is what was done:

- new filters (air, fuel, oil)
- new fluids (gas, coolant, oil)
- new ignition (plugs, wires, rotor, points, distributor cap)
- carb rebuilt
- timing set
- valve lash adjusted (solid lifter car)
- tires replaced
- chassis lubed
- front bearings repacked (front disk brakes)
- brakes bled
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old May 14th, 02, 11:45 AM
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Click - boy this must be the 'how high is up' question for the day.
I have resurrected a couple of older 'stored' cars in my past. The most recent was a Fo_ _.. a Fo _ _.. a Fo_ _ - oh heck I just can't get myself to say that I helped put an older F-100 back on the street for my stepson. Hey it has an "F" in it, so I can just say it was an F-body - right?!?
The biggest problem I run into with most of them is the fuel system. I have gottin to the point that I just routinely remove the tank to have it cleaned. I blow out the lines. I rebuild the carb (it's always amazing to me how much spiders like these places) and replace the fuel pump, fuel lines and filter(s).
The engines have almost always been okay as long as they were put away running and no water was able to get under hood. I remove the plugs, squirt in some Marvel Oil and wait a day or so prior to cranking over (of course after draining and replacing Oil/Filter) and taking compression readings. I use these readings to decide if I need to go in further or the thing has some legs left to work with prior to doing any rebuilding/modifications down the line. Almost every one has developed some source of oil leak not readily visible when we started (maybe all the oil just dripped off?)that had to be addressed with a seal or two replaced down the line. Of course if it's a SBC you might as well just replace the valve cover gaskets cuz' you know they are going to leak after drying out all these years.
Pull all the wheels and check brake lining condition (replace as nec.) I like to pull the cylinders if I see any signs of fluid and rebuild/replace them. I drain the system and check the master carefully, rebuild/replace if you see any leaking. Bench bleed master, refill fluid and bleed system. Measure dics/drums if possible, I always amazed how many out of spec ones I find on running cars.
Check over steering and suspension, replace as necessary. Lube everything up.
Tires tend to go away as they sit and even if they have "looked good" I replaced them.
Hope some of this helps. Get back to everyone with specific questions of what you run into. I'm sure someone has dealt with it before and can give advice.


[This message has been edited by Vintage 68 (edited 05-14-2002).]
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old May 14th, 02, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Jim
 
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Thanks Dee and Vintage for the insight so far. I had not thought about tires and hoses and spiders. yuck Im taking good notes on this one, lol.
This time of year lots of folks 'discover' the car in the shed and those kind of cars excite me a little but I want to taper that with resolve to know it takes more than the purchase price to get it going.


------------------
69RS 350/255 LM1,TH350,Dover White,Blue Vinyl top
F&R spoilers,pdb,ps,am/fm,4.10 Posi.,A/C,
fold down rear seat.
My RS www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old May 14th, 02, 11:59 AM
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John
 
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Click - sorry edited in the brake part I forgot to put in first time (and yes I corrected a couple misspelled words)
It cost my son about $1000.oo including brakes, tires, oil/filter, tune-up and elec. parts and of course some extra "Bling" (chrome) to make it look more left coast.
This was a low budget project for him so I'm sure he would have spent more if I didn't have access to parts and discounts to help him. He is actually learning to like polishing aluminum and chrome now!
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old May 14th, 02, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Jim
 
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Well after seeing the pics of this one, its beyond $1000 in my mind to get it running. Im not good with body work and this one needs it all. If anyone is interested in a 69RS, 327,pwrglide,2.73pegleg, let me know and I can email some rusty pics.Its green with black vinyl top. I cant justify $6900 to my wife for a parts car either.
Sad to see a Camaro slowly flake away.
click

------------------
69RS 350/255 LM1,TH350,Dover White,Blue Vinyl top
F&R spoilers,pdb,ps,am/fm,4.10 Posi.,A/C,
fold down rear seat.
My RS www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old May 14th, 02, 05:30 PM
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John
 
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Tell her you're going to buy it and put it on E-Bay and make her rich!
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