Starting Problems - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 03, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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I have a 25th Anniversary Camaro. Recently, it decided that it just don't want to start anymore. I can spray eather into the air intake and it will start, or it will start if it is still warm; but other than that the car just refuses to start. (The starter engages, the belts begin turning, but it won't completely turn over.) Once the cars is started, it runs beautifully.
I have no idea what is causing this problem. I have asked a few people and I have gotten answers ranging from it is just a sensor gone bad to their might not be enough fuel pressure for the car to start, but enough to keep it running.
Does anyone have a suggestion of what may be causing this problem?
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 03, 08:24 AM
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Wow...you need to find some more useful friends!

If it's spinning slowly, your problem is not likely sensors, or fuel, or tuning...but a weak battery. You've either got a worn out battery, or a worn out alternator, or both. (But, if the alternator's not doing its job, you should have an idiot light coming on and telling you that (or low voltage, if you have a gauge). The reason it does it primarily when cold is that the engine takes more torque to crank it over when it's been sitting and is cool.

Good luck!

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 03, 07:42 PM
 
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if it's spinning normally, but wont start, go ahead and check the fuel pressure, or try just changing the filter.

can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on? it should run for a few seconds when you first turn the key on. if it does, you can turn the key on and off (leaving it on while the pump runs) two or three times to build up pressure until you get the problem sorted instead of spraying ether every time.

also check your timing if its spinning slowly.

keep us posted. we may have more suggestions.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 03, 01:36 AM
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Go easy on the eather starter fluid. It can fry an engine real good. I think it might be able to even make your cylinder wall look like a wok looks like. The heat is much more than gas.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 03, 01:02 AM
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Welcome to the Club, blewphonenix. Lots of good talent here.

You post reads like the car will start when engine is at operating temp, but, not when its cold, as in the first thing in the morning.

Good suggestions given here as to fuel pump and the avoidence of ether in LARGE quantities. It will do damage, especially to a warm engine.

Now back to your problem. Cold starting? It might be the coolant sensor for the ECM. Find in the coolant path, a two-wire sensor. The connector may be corroded and just need cleaning. Or, if you have n electronics buddy, measure the cold resistance across the sensor terminals, and at 70*F, resistance should read approx 1000 ohms. The colder the sender, the higher the resistance, i.e., 32*F = 10,000 ohms. Also, measure resistance into the wire harness to measure back to the ECM to be sure there is a path. One direction measured with an ohmmeter will be low and high resistance in the other direction swapping the leads.

For a quick troubleshooting hint, after determining there is good fuel pressure and good oil pressure, and battery is in a good state of charge, place a 1/4 0r 1/2 watt 10K or 12K resistor across those two terminals in the sensor's plug to see if it starts right up. Basically, your cheating the ECM into thinking its really cold outside to give it more fuel, as if pulling the choke closed.

Does the engine high idle after you get it started? It may be a brken IAC valve. Idle Air Control valve. If the IAC isn't set right from orders given by the ECM, the engine won't fast idle when cold. The IAC gives the engine a controlled vacuum leak to idle faster.

Keep us posted as to what happens.

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