RS head light doors - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 02, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 90

Ok I got new OER actuaters and hose. Bought a book to make sure that I had it plumbed right. But still no movement from the doors.

How do you trouble shoot these?

Any ideas?


Dave 69 z/28RS
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 02, 03:08 PM
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Location: Lexington, SC
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Do the move at all, even with help?
Check the relay on top of the tank.
Make sure it is operation properly.
Are you sure you have everything for the entire system?
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 02, 03:46 PM
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Fortuna, CA
Posts: 26,477

Treat it like an electrical ckt., start at the light switch and make sure you have vacuum feeding it. Move down the line from there until you find the problem. A vacuum guage helps but isn't necessary.

"The '69, the '96 & the club"
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 02, 03:29 AM
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Do a search on the subject. The answers are already there for you.

68 RS, Ash Gold,pwr brakes,pwr windows,Hounds tooth,355/T350,MSD 6AL,3200 stall Dynamic converter,3.31:1 posi,Autometer guage pod
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 02, 05:53 AM
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Spend $25 bucks at Harbor Freight and get a Mitivac system. This is a hand powered vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge. It is great for bench testing your actuators and for checking out your hoses and check valves.

It also comes with everything you need to vacuum bleed your breaks. Great tool!

Dave Richard
68RS/SS Convertible
L48 (350/295 Powerglide)
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 02, 11:36 AM
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I spent several days troubleshooting my system. I thought it was the relay that sits on top of the tank because it was leaking at the bottom. I replaced it and they still didnt work. It turned out to be the actuator had a leak. I dont know if this will mean anything, but the one that leaked was real easy to operate by hand. The good one had some drag on it and you had to use some force to open or close manually. When I got the new one, it worked like the other good one. You may want to check them if you cant find any other problems. Mine work fine since I replaced the bad one. Good luck!!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 02, 11:38 AM
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I forgot to add in my previous post, that my actuators were new also, so dont rule out "bad" new parts.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 2nd, 02, 06:16 AM
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: La La Land, CA
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I agree with david and yogi, check the actuators.

I had to go through four to get two good ones. A vacuum pump makes a great diagnostic tool.

Also check the function of the relay. The last one I dealt had one of the holes where the actuator lines attached still blocked.

With a big cam and little vacuum at idle they don't work well. I have an old 1968 article where a 396/350 car's headlight doors did not work.

The Red Beast
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