curve distributor - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 1st, 02, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2001
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i have a standard 302z with dart iron heads.
i put in a mallory breakerless dist. the curve is wrong according to the chevy manual. do you recommend taking it to a shop to get it curved on a distributor machine or order the advance kit from mallory? thanks,george
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 1st, 02, 06:23 PM
DjD
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If you have dart heads you have a modified 302. If you want to have the new dist curved to match what a Z came with, a shop with a machine and someone that knows how to use it is the best way to go!!

You can get the spec's from the back of a Chassis Service Manual

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...Dennis
"The '69, the '96 & the club"

[This message has been edited by DjD (edited 09-01-2002).]
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 02, 03:03 AM
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Mark
 
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George,
No way would I go back to the stock factory smog 302 curve. It is very slow and not a good performance setup. The centrifugal curve has about 32 degrees in it starting just above idle and going up to the full 32 at 4400 RPM. The initial setting is 4 degrees so the total of initial plus all the centrifugal is 36 at 4400 RPM. There is also a ported vacuum advance that would add additional advance at cruise in the factory setup.

I have just done some work on my 302 curve and distributor to get rid of the smog style setup. I would advise you to remove some of the centrifugal advance from the distributor and replace it with the same amount of initial. Shoot for between 20-24 in the centrifugal and set your initial to 12-16 (depending on the centrifugal)to give you 36 degrees total at the top of the curve with the vacuum advance plugged. The centrifugal needs to be all in by 3000 RPM or so. The vacuum advance was set up as ported from the factory after emissions became an issue. Before that, they ran manifold vaccum to the distributor. Buy a NAPA VC1810 vacuum can for about $9.00 and run it with manifold vacuum from the power brake booster fitting. This will give you full vacuum advance at idle and the engine will love it. The temperature will go down and the idle will be stable. The tune up is the same as before except for the new initial advance setting but the idle will jump quite a bit when the vacuum advance is hooked back up. You will need to readjust the idle speed and mixture screws to make the switch.

Feel free to ask questions if needed.

-Mark.

P.S. - I am running 16 degrees initial with 20 degrees in the centrifugal that is all in by 2600 RPM with the VC1810 vacuum can and it works great.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 02, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the info, mark the book wants 22 deg at 2200 rpm. is that what im going to shoot for? then the 36 at 3000? there is a stop in the dist so i can stop the curve at any deg, should i use this or try to get the springs to do the work?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 02, 12:11 PM
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Mark
 
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The springs give you the rate of advance. The slot in the autocam plate gives you the amount. The 2200 figure is for the stock curve and is not relavant. There is typicaly too much available advance in the slot on a factory piece. The slot needs to be closed up to reduce the travel by about 1/3 of the way as a rough first start. A Mallory distributor may be able to use a different bushing to accomplish the same thing. You make up the difference with more initial timing. The sum of the initial plus the available centrifugal needs to be around 36. Check the archives as I have posted a lot about this question. Jerry MacNiesh can set up a perfect curve for you. He obviously knows how to tune 302's as he is an expert on them. Let me know if you need contact info.

-Mark.

[This message has been edited by stingr69 (edited 09-02-2002).]
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 02, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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thanks again, yes i could use any contact info you might have.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 02, 01:53 PM
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Mark
 
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http://www.z28camaro.com is Jerry's web site. He has a phone number there as well.

-Mark.
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