Knob on headlight switch wont come off? - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 02, 05:45 AM Thread Starter
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Im trying to remove the dash panel but the darn headlight switch knob wont pull off. Is it just pressed on or is it screwed on, thredded? I dont want to break it but not sure what to do next.


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....Jim aka Click
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 02, 06:00 AM
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Reach under the dash and find the switch, there is a little spring loaded button (on the top side of the switch ), press this button and pull on the switch and the rod. After a pull or two (like pulling on the rod to turn on your lights) the switch rod will pull out.
Hope this helps.
Mark (A.K.A. Z28 Mark)
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 02, 06:01 AM
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There's a button on the switch itself. Push the button and pull the whole knob and shaft out. it may need a wiggle or, and it helps to be a contortionist

John

(beat me to the punch...)

[This message has been edited by 68ragtop (edited 12-30-2002).]
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 02, 06:23 AM
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The guys are right and I'll add you may need to turn the nob (like you are dimming the dash lights to get it in the right place to pull it out...

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 02, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Who would have thunk of that one? Thanks guys, will try that tonight when I crawl under there again. Contortionist is right. Arms and hands are all skinned up from undoing the nuts that hold the dash pad onto the dash. Those bolts are WAYYYYYYY to long, cant get a socket over it, hardly reachable. Im not even sure how to get the little nuts back up in there either. Still having the a/c ductwork in there probably doesnt help.


------------------
....Jim aka Click
69RS 350/255 LM1, Balanced, TRW forged pistons, .30 over, TH-350 auto.,
Dover White, Blue Vinyl top, F&R spoilers, close ratio ps, am/fm, 3.08 Posi.
A/C, fold down rear seat, Pwr Disk Brakes, Cowl Induction, Endura Bumper
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 02, 05:20 PM
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Actually I'll add to Dennis' post and go one further... If memory serves me correctly, you need to pull on the switch as if you were going to turn on the headlamps while pushing on the release button and you will feel the shaft release as you pull twards you.

Best of luck,
Tom
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 02, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Got it out this evening. THANKS GUYS.
Actually I ended up pulling vacuum hoses, wires, and when I figured out to drop the steering column, I wiggled the dash panel off then I found that little steel button, spring loaded and with a simple push, while pulling on the knob, out it came. I am going to take pics of that whole mess under there for future reference for others. What a spaghetti junction that is.

Thanks again guys.

------------------
.... Jim aka Click
69RS 350/255 LM1, Balanced, TRW forged pistons, .30 over, TH-350 auto.,
Dover White, Blue Vinyl top, F&R spoilers, close ratio ps, am/fm, 3.08 Posi.
A/C, fold down rear seat, Pwr Disk Brakes, Cowl Induction, Endura Bumper
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 02, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Here is close up pic and procedure for removing knob shaft. Easy now that I found out how to do it Thanks guys.



------------------
.... Jim aka Click
69RS 350/255 LM1, Balanced, TRW forged pistons, .30 over, TH-350 auto.,
Dover White, Blue Vinyl top, F&R spoilers, close ratio ps, am/fm, 3.08 Posi.
A/C, fold down rear seat, Pwr Disk Brakes, Cowl Induction, Endura Bumper
My RS www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 03, 01:38 AM
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Wow. The shaft has serrations on it so the knob stays on even when pulled on ( how do I know this ). I have a parts car I learn on!

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,Autogear M22,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 03, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
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Yes Rick I found that after finally getting the shaft out. It was serated along its whole triangular length with one larger indent circle near the tip. That indent circle seemed to be the trick area that when the button was pushed, it lifted an arm or something inside that rested in the indent circle. If I ever get a throw away switch I will pull it apart and document its construction for others to see it too.
Wonder who sits and invents all these gizzmos to confuse us 30 years later?


------------------
.... Jim aka Click
69RS 350/255 LM1, Balanced, TRW forged pistons, .30 over, TH-350 auto.,
Dover White, Blue Vinyl top, F&R spoilers, close ratio ps, am/fm, 3.08 Posi.
A/C, fold down rear seat, Pwr Disk Brakes, Cowl Induction, Endura Bumper
My RS www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 03, 01:25 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by click:

Wonder who sits and invents all these gizzmos to confuse us 30 years later?


<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I knew about this over 26 years ago...
Mark (A.K.A. Z28 Mark)

post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 03, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thought Id throw this in here for others to see if they are curious. Upon closer exam, the shaft is not serated at all, but triangular and that indent circle is very close to the tip. So simple.
Mark if they asked that in a trivia contest you would have won it



------------------
.... Jim aka Click
69RS 350/255 LM1, Balanced, TRW forged pistons, .30 over, TH-350 auto.,
Dover White, Blue Vinyl top, F&R spoilers, close ratio ps, am/fm, 3.08 Posi.
A/C, fold down rear seat, Pwr Disk Brakes, Cowl Induction, Endura Bumper
My RS www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 03, 01:55 PM
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Thanks for the great pictures, Click!

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Steve - Central Ohio Camaro Club
'69 Camaro RS/SS-350 - Daytona Yellow
'95 Camaro Z-28 - Sebring Silver
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 03, 06:37 PM
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The part of the shaft under the knob is serated. Just got the car and have been wondering if I should glue the knob back on the shaft. Now that I know how to get it out why not. Thanxs guys.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 03, 03:05 AM
 
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Now that you have it out, be careful when putting the knob back in. Press that spring-loaded pin first, and then insert the knob rod carefully (do not push it in with any amount of force). Then release the pin and see if it is locked in, if not try again. I made the mistake of pushing the knob in first and then pushing the pin, what a mistake. I ended up taking the switch apart to pull the little plastic assembly that the knob rod goes in back to the front of the switch. Ken
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